A Few that Got Away

Once again I've left behind the dark confines of Sweden for greener pastures in the "Land of the Free".  We are a week into our 4 month trip but before I start spraying about life in 'Merica I've got one (or two) post about Sweden.......

It's standard to leave behind a few projects in Sweden when I make the winter journey to the States but this year it seems I'm leaving behind more than usual.  The combo of a new baby and bad weather made the usually productive fall nothing more that a string of rainy days and dirty diapers.  So it goes.  My angst at leaving behind projects this year comes from the fact that I will not be returning to Sweden in the spring to slay said projects but instead moving briefly to England (I keep telling myself it's only a year, it's only a year, it's only a year). Fortunately these projects won't be going anywhere even if it takes awhile to get back to them.

Here are just a few of the many projects I left behind in Sweden.

Stefan on one of the west coasts best squeeze problems, Hippopotamus.  The crux is simply having juice left at the end and I thought I'd get a chance to finish off this project after punting in April but life happens. 

I showed Pyssel this problem over the summer and he styled the fa and I couldn't put it together.  Needed anther day but never got it.  

I found this gem some years ago and brushed it up just before injuring my hamstring and leaving me unable to do a requisite heel-hook.  I took Pyssel here and he fired it after some work.  Was hopping to get back to it but.... 

I stumbled upon a small area while exploring one rainy day and would later get a couple "dryish" hours to try the two best lines.  One is this off the deck mantle that took roughly and hour on rope before cracking a very tenuous sequence.  It started raining before I got to attempt it from the ground and it will be scary.

The other problem in the small area is a difficult squeeze problem.  We managed to do all the moves despite the conditions but it will be a challenge to put this guy together.  Maybe I'll have the requisite fitness when I get back to this a year and a half from now.

With the help of an orienteering map I found a solitary in the middle of nowhere.  This striking arete brought me back there one day over the summer and while we managed the stand and a couple other problems the sit-start awaits a return. 

Low Water

Occasionally over the years I'd drive by a lake up in Bohuslan and see this impressive looking boulder just on the other side.  I'd resisted the urge to check this boulder out because the landing has always been in the water and I've generally got a lot of other projects in the area.  Well, this year when I drove by I noticed that the water level of the lake is way down and figured it was time to take a closer look at this boulder.  What I discovered is a striking line up the middle of boulder that will be well worth the effort of building a landing should (when is more like it) the water rises to normal levels.  All the holds are there and I'm psyched to head back to this amazing project.  

The boulder and a visible water mark.

The line to do will climb the steep face then continue up to the left once reaching the "lip".  I think a slightly easier escape can be done by rolling over on the slab but it will still be hard.  We did a problem on the right arete that can have a sitstart added, at least until it is under water.

The Mega-block

Some years ago Spång took me to a massive boulder in Bohuslan and I giddily circled the boulder, spying several great problems and a couple super lines.  That day we brushed and failed on a striking arete and I told myself I'd be back.  For some reason it took me several years to return and while we didn't try that arete (it was wet) or the other amazing highballs we put up a few worthy problems.  I'll be back as soon as I can rally some folks.  Anyone keen?

The mega-block.  We brushed the arete on the right several years ago and I'm excited about trying it.  A little more than half the boulder is more suited to sport climbing, the rest offers top notch bouldering.

The backside of the boulder.

Tumle on a fun roof we did (You can see the roof on the left side of the previous picture).  Cryptic climbing and great moves

Tumle attempting a striking dihedral I dubbed "Upper Half".  This one tops-out on the massive boulder thanks to an adjacent boulder making it a reasonable height.  

Tumle reaching the slopey crimps on Upper Half

This is another nearby boulder with a couple good looking lines

A New Winter Destination

Life in St George is awesome.  I came with very little expectations, simply hoping to climb some new problems and do some exploring but what I've discovered is a new winter home.  Moe's Valley is all most people think of regarding St George bouldering but it is just the tip of the iceberg.  The sandstone bouldering in this region is endless and the rock is of good/excellent quality (Moe's Valley is of lesser quality than other areas).  There are also no major access issues, a great local crew and a kindred spirit in local developer Isaac Caldierio.

I don't believe I'm overstating it when I say the only things keeping this region from being a proper winter destination is developmental work and spray.  During my brief time here I've done a good amount of running around and brushing and I wish we had more time.  Hammie and I were meant to stay a few more days but a small storm is pushing us toward Vegas for our last couple of climbing days before heading to NM and then Sweden.  I will certainly be coming back to St George and if I can have my way I'll be spending the next couple winters frolicking amongst the endless sandstone boulders.

 Those boulders are huge and they continue for miles.

 Isaac on one of the gems he established at a new area called Dalton Wash

 Just a few more boulders that need to be explored/cleaned

 One of the better problems I put up.  "Keep Me Out of the Mud" is techy on perfect rock. The sit start is still undone.

We never got around to trying this mega-project.  Amazing line on bullet rock.

The Once-ler Project

The Once-ler Project is steep and hard.  In a couple sessions I've managed to do all the moves but don't feel even close to completing the thing.  When it goes I reckon it'll be one of the harder things I've done and the hardest think in Solklinten.  Time will tell as new beta might be found or it may just work to my weaknesses.  Regardless, I'm psyched to get back on it on a good day.

Working the Once-ler Project

A closer shot of the big move.  This is the 5th move and you still have 4 more hard moves before easier territory on the top-out.  

Wishing I had more skin and stronger tendons.  

Orust Rail Project

Several years ago I tried an amazing Rail Project on Orust.  Back then I decided it was a bit too hard but recently I decided to have another crack at it (I'd like to think I'm a better/stronger climber now).  Daniel and I went there early one morning and it was just as stunning as I remember it.  Unfortunately it is still very hard (or I'm just weak) and got a bit harder when the one suspect hold (and only real jug on the problem) came off.  It definitely still goes but it'll have to wait until I'm stronger or some mutant comes down for a try.

Daniel contemplates the Rail Project

Almost doing the move to the jug.  Moments later I was boosted to the jug and an audible cracking sound warned me of impending doom.  A couple light tugs from the safety of the ladder would relieve the route of it's only jug.

The bottom of the scare is now a "decent" sloper and the right side is a good sidepull/undercling.  I thing that getting into this undercling will be harder but then make the next move easier than before (got to look on the bright side).

The jug that was nice enough to not crack my skull open.

FA's near Kungälv

Last week Aleksej and I went to try some lines I had found during previous explorations.  It ended up being quite a productive day as 3 sweet problems were established and a couple more projects got bushed up.

 Aleksej on his crack problem

 Aleksej on the perfect rock of Upper Deck

Barely sticking the big move on Upper Deck. 

Steep project

Newness and Projects at Solklinten

I'm continuing my barrage of new boulder problems with a few from Solklinten.   

Sticking the first move of a new steep climb

After the opening dyno the problem follows good holds to the left before rolling over the lip.  The straight-up is tall and looks pretty difficult.

Working the opening moves of another problem on a second wall only 100 meters from the last one.  This problem shares the same highball top-out with a problem further right and both are undone as the top was wet the day I was there.  Psyched to go back.

Doing the long move on the right problem.

A rather impressive sloper problem on a solitary boulder has several thuggy moves from a sit-start to a hard sloper top-out.  All the move except the top-out has been done

New Stuff in Jonsered

Here are a few pictures from one of several new area near Jonsered.  In the one day we were here we established 6 climbs and brushed several more.  

A pretty amazing wall with several lines.  The rock is perfect but the do to the height and slopey nature of the top we didn't establish a single problem.  Next time I'd like to rally some pads.

 Johan on another line on the tall wall

 A cool steep problem with big moves.  I'm keen to go back for a cool dyno project that is just to the right

 Johan fires to the giant sloper of another newly established climb

Finishing off the problems that starts down left and surfs the sloper to the apex.  Good times

More from my Backyard

It never ceases to amaze me that striking lines are still to be found a stones throw from a fairly major road.  This next area was discovered when I stopped to inspect a steep wall visible from a road, and while that wall didn't have much of interest another wall 50ish meters away held a couple impressive looking problems.  The steep face has a perfect starting jug in the middle and two independent lines of holds.  There is no cheating these climbs as the rock offers just enough to be climbable.  After brushing I briefly tried both problems and can imagine myself doing the easier right problem with a fresh day and a little more work.  The better looking left line is definitely possible but feels just over my head.  I can almost fathom doing all the moves but this will probably require someone stronger to put together.  This left line in particular is a real gem and is begging to be climbed.

The area also holds some good slabs on perfect rock and a few other moderate to easy problems we never got around to brushing.  Here are a couple pictures.

 Trying the left project and wishing I was stronger

 From here you will bust a big move left or do some delicate matching to make the move more reasonable

 The right project.

 The first move of the right project

Crimping will be required

Adam on the slab wall

A New Season in Solklinten

As the weather warms we will inevitably be spending lots of time at my mother-in-law's summer house on Tjörn, and that means more time at Solkinten.  We were up there a couple weeks ago and I made it out for some exploration and yet again stumbled upon some good stuff.  It's amazing how this area keeps producing quality rock climbs as just when I think I've seen it all something else pops up.  I know I've been talking about trying to put out more information and a possible mini-guide and hopefully that will happen this summer.  The area needs something as the majority of the roughly 130 established boulder problems have been done only by myself and many of the best and most difficult require a little guidance to find.  There is also potential for hundreds of more problems (yes, I said hundreds) and while a doubt a mini-guide will bring many people willing to brush it might help contribute to development.

So until I get my act together people that want to visit the area should feel free to email me for information.  As always I'm eager share whatever beta I can with folks and if possible provide a guided tour, just keep in mind I might drag you to a new sector and hand you a brush.

Here are a couple of the brand-new things I found

This striking slab line proved to be more difficult than anticipated.  What I thought would be a quick stop to establish a great warm-up turned into a two hour ordeal to unlock beta and finally scrape my way to the top.  I called the slab "Wiggle-room" due to a worm-like feature and the tiny margin that separated the many fails from the actual send.

This is a gem of a boulder for moderate climbers.  What is not visible in this picture are 3 cool aretes and a couple face climbs all with perfect landing and just waiting to be done.  I didn't have my ladder or much time the day I found this boulder and the one problem I tried shut me down.  I was unable to properly brush the top or the stand would probably have gone.  While the stand start alone will be a struggle it's the obvious sit-start requiring thuggy power on slopey rails that I'm ampted to get back to.

Another Project in Lerum

The primary reason exploring has been so productive as of late is because we have been living in Lerum for the last month (for those unfamiliar with the geography of Sweden's west coast....Lerum is a small town roughly 20km east of Gothenburg).  Being here has afforded me new places to explore literally outside my back door.  It's easy to justify a quick exploration when you simply run from your porch or drive a few minutes.  I know I keep saying it but there is unlimited rock around these parts and those willing to put in the work can find amazing things.

Another small area I found is practically in town.  Jocke joined me for a day and we managed to put up roughly 10 problems and brush a few projects.  Here are a couple pictures of a sweet project.  Jocke has also recently added a few pictures of the area to happyboulder.blogspot.com.

Jocke reaching to the "hold" one must then dyno to the top from.  This problem ended up being more difficult than I thought it would be and awaits someone to stick the big dyno from the bad hold.

Same problem from a different angle.