Showing posts with label hogen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hogen. Show all posts

Friday, August 28, 2015

Can't get enough Bohuslän

It might have something to do with the crap weather in England but I still haven't fully transitioned back since our trip to Sweden. It's always a little unfortunate when your climbing psyche is for boulders that are a long way away.  Since returning I've found myself looking at old pictures/videos from Bohuslän and jonesing to be back.  Man I love that place.  Anyways, I thought I'd share a few pictures from Bohuslän to entice and motivate folks.  

And for those that don't know, every blogpost is labeled by country, city/town and region/area so if you want to see all the posts from Bohuslän (or somewhere else) just scroll to the very bottom and click on the appropriate label.  I wanted the blog to function like a climbing reference of sorts and at some point I'll make it more user friendly.  Hope you enjoy the little photo tour of Bohuslän  

Most of the areas in Bohuslän are small but the quality of problems are often exceptional.  This problem is located at an area consisting of only a few boulders but they are well worth the visit.  I can't remember the name of this problem Kim is doing but it is classic.

Sunshine Arete is a problem I miraculously managed to FA on a warm summer day and is located at the same area as the previous problem.

This granite cave has serious potential for some hard enduro lines.  Two of the three most obvious  straight-outs are done and here John works on the undone project.  We almost did all the moves that day but have never been back.

Another shot of John on the same project.  The next move is the one we never managed to do.

Abiyoyo is one of my all time favorite FAs and I even did a whole blogpost about it.  As far as I know it still hasn't seen a second ascent.

Sioux City Sarsparilla is one of my FAs that actually see lots of traffic as it is regarded as one of the best in Bohuslän.  This one also gets it's own blogpost and there is even a video of the FA.


 Yet another FA, Cuerop de Hombre can also be counted among the best in Bohuslän.  It is located in Häller, which is considered the epicenter of climbing in Bohuslän for both bouldering and trad-climbing. There is also an old video of the FA.

Hippopotamus is another classic problem in Häller.  This power-endurance problem has alluded me and is one of the established problems I'm most excited about getting back to.

Incredible rock, world-class bouldering and spectacular settings combine to make Bohuslän one of my favorite places in the world.

I tend to put an emphasis on harder problems as the sparsity of grips and general blankness that make climbs beautiful also tends to make them difficult.  Fortunately Bohuslän hold lots of amazing moderates as you don't have to be a crusher to enjoy the climbing.  Here Spang demonstrates how it's done on his classic problem Falsifierbarhet.

And for those of you that are crushers there are plenty of projects to be had.  This particular project will require strong fingers and a good head as the hold gradually get smaller the higher you get.

This project should have been done years ago but we've never been back to it as one needs a boat to reach the island.  One of these day.......can't wait to return to Bohuslän.

Wednesday, May 4, 2011

Falsifierbarhet

A couple weeks ago Lina ticked off one of the west coasts finest, Falsifierbarhet in Hogen.

 Lina on her way to the send

Kim looking determined 

Monday, November 2, 2009

Stockholmites invade Bohuslan

Some Stockholmites (Jon, Katrin, Fredrik, and Jocke) where out west for the weekend. I took them to Hogen for an enjoyable day and many of the classics saw repeats. The climbing highlight was a new sequence on Little Lar's Hockeyljumskar that made it possible for mere mortals but the real send of the day was a delicious pumpkin pie whipped up by Markus that evening. Seriously, the pie was sweet.
On Sunday the Stockholm crew headed off to Boxvik and Spång played tour guide to Lina, Markus, Hammie and I at Smögen. Nice block by the sea. It was nice to get some climbing over the weekend as the weather gods decided to become anti-climbing late on Sunday and into the foreseeable future. Sweden does have it's downsides.
Thanks to all for the sweet weekend.


Spång warms up on one of the west coasts best

Jon enters the crux of Hockeyljumskar

Spång using the new beta

Sticking the crux, only to fall off the top. Heartbreaking

Hogen's best remaining project?

Smögen

Tuesday, September 8, 2009

A Big Day at Hogen

Hogen saw a flurry of activity on Sunday as there must have been 2o people there and several of the best undone lines went down. I managed the 2nd ascent of an incredible slopey problem after Adam surged his way up it (got a name for the problem Adam?) and my only other victory was the fa of a tricky toe-hook problem I'm calling "Dance Quintet". There where some other notable fa's as Fredrik utilized his height to stretch up a cool face (name?) and Lars danced his way up a heinous problem that left everyone else beat-up and confused (name?). There are still some undone gems for those with fa fever and many of those that are done are top class. In fact the area holds what I think is one of the best moderates in Sweden and it alone is worth a trip. I'm sure I'll be back at Hogen as I'd like another go at the Lars problem among others.


Fredrik tries his luck on the slopey problem

Adam on Fredrik's face climb


Adam on the heinous Lars problem


Martin on the first move of the Lars problem


Dance Quintet

Monday, June 15, 2009

Bohuslan

Last weekend we headed up to Bohuslan to check out a new area. I'd seen a little video of a couple problems there on Spång's blog and the place ended up being quite good. We brushed some new stuff and sampled what had been done. The problems in Spång's video were incredibly good and alone made the place worth a visit. I also managed to nab the fa of the second problem in the vid and named it "interpretive dancing". The topout is a bit terrifying.

Some of the best lines there are yet to be done and I'm hoping to go back at next opportunity. Here's a few pics.


Johan on a cool dyno problem. Tricky

Kalle on takes the horrible undercling on the dyno problem

Johan on an incredible boulder problem. One of the best I've done in awhile.


An awesome slab wall.