Saturday, October 20, 2012

Double Boogy and Back Swing

I recently put up two new problems near the Golf Wall just south of Gothenburg.  The area now holds about a half dozen difficult(ish) problems along with some easier problems and warm-ups.
Double Boogy is one of the new problems I put up and required a couple days to suss out and complete.  It climbs out a steep face using an awesome sloper and some trickery before some big moves at the top.  I needed a colder day and some try-hard to send this one.

The other problem is a fun roof I'm calling Back Swing that uses some cool holds and requires some body tension.

Here are a couple pictures.

 Milking the sloper on Double Boogy and trying to find balance to reach the crimp/pinch

 Gearing for the third bump on the arete to gain a good hold.  This is the last "hard" move.

Back Swing.  Kind of turdy but fun none-the-less

Sunday, October 14, 2012

Not So Bad After All

After a very rainy start Sweden did show it's softer side to Antonio and blessed him with some sunny days and crisp conditions.  Antonio has a new lease on life and can once again be in the presence of sharp objects without an urge to stab himself.  Crazy what happens to desert folk when they are deprived of sunshine.

Here are a few picture of Antonio not sulking in the rain.

"I love Sweden......when it's not raining"


 A new line we brushed up.  Unfortunately the tree interferes with the top-out.  Can't win them all

 Antonio climbing at the Golf Wall

 About to send Par for the Course

 Gunning for a jug at Hultasten

 Mölndal Lightning

Climbing at Kjugekull in the south of Sweden

Tuesday, October 9, 2012

A Ray of Light and a Little Video

So the epic weather has only recently let up and I hope this means the weather gods have changed their tune.    This should mean that we will be getting out more and the blog will explode with photos of a smiling Antonio.  It's not too lake for Sweden to show it's softer side as Antonio got a pretty bad first impression.

Here is a little video from Antonio's first couple days in Sweden (and a little old footage).  I'm lucky enough to have found, brushed and FAed all four problems in the video.  When it's not raining Sweden is pretty sweet.

Hope you enjoy

Swedish Bouldering: Orust and Tjörn from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.