Friday, August 29, 2008

Skivbloket Project

While Göteborg is far from tapped out I've been hard pressed to find new boulders close to town that get me psyched. It's rough having only a few hours after work (and the days are getting shorter!) and we find ourselves limited to areas we've been to hundreds of times. That said, occasionally you find motivation close to home.
I eyeballed the thin dihedral on skivbloket a couple years ago but it wasn't until recently that i brushed it up and went to work. It's high, beautiful, and begs to be climbed. Little Magnus was close and with any luck we'll go back next week and do it. Could be exciting. Nice to find motivation at a local area.

reaching to the heinous crimper

trying to bypass the heinous crimper by using the shoulder-exploding gaston

Friday, August 22, 2008

Orust and Utby

Last weekend we cleaned up some sweet problems at a new area on Orust. "Team manwhore" and "the velvet hammer" alone were worth the trip and there's still plenty to do. Here's a few pics from Orust along with a couple of Lina crushing in Utby.

Dyno on the turd burger wall.

A sweet slab.

The Velvet Hammer.

Team Manwhore.



Thursday, August 21, 2008

Blue Steel, Ferrari, La Tigra

Making model faces on "team manwhore".
You know John, there's more to life than being really ridiculously good looking.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Little Erik in Kjuge

While Kjugekull locals seem deadset on putting up lame sit/defined starts to every existing problem (Dude, it's like at least two grades harder!) there are still a couple undone lines in Kjuge worth doing. Here's Little Erik this spring on the FA of one such line. I find it odd that it took so long for someone to do it while grade-inflating sit starts are popping up everywhere.

Unfortunately for Erik I eyed that line years ago and it was my closed project. He will have to unclimb it, and beg me for forgiveness. The project will keep the working name of "I'm an egotistical maniac”.

Congrats Erik. I can't wait until someone put a sit start on that one.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

The Week in Review

Here's a few pics from the last week.

Lina at Fotö

Lina on Den Gamle och Havet

Johan on a new project in Boxvik

Fredrik at Branta Trappan

Martin at Branta Trappan

Friday, August 8, 2008


The best face of the best boulder on Fotö happens to be hanging over the water. Nothing a little elbow grease can't fix. After hours of lugging rocks on several different occasions we've managed to make much of the steep face climbable, but there's still more work to be done and a few more fa's ripe for the pickin'. I don't recommend going there at high tide.

Hope you enjoy the short vid. I'll try to keep little vids and pics coming. Please leave some comments.

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Trying to Beat the Heat

Been spending most of our climbing days along the coast or on the islands. Still good climbing to be had but the temps leave something to be desired. Here's a few pics from last week.

Martin fondels a greasy sloper on Möte i Västindien.

Slab Dyno in Kullavik

Den Gamle och Havet