Back to Reality, and it's not so bad.

I don't live in Rogaland nor do I have the possibility to take long and frequent trips there and I just have to accept that.  And while it is a far cry from Norway, I actually live in a pretty awesome place to be a climber and have my fair share of world class bouldering.  So now that I'm over the post-trip blues I can get back to enjoying the plethora of rock around Gothenburg.

Here is a little video of a couple newish problems that were recently put up in Utby.  It's kind of surprising that these escaped our attention for so long, particularly Det första taket which is probably one of the better problems in the area (props to Pyssel for the vision).

Hope you enjoy.



Utby Bouldering: Three New Problems from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

After Skeleton

The other day I climbed an obscure boulder problem in the middle of Gothenburg's most accessible area.  After Skeleton is a bit unassuming but it has perfect stone and good movement.  I fully recommend it to folks heading to Utby that are looking for a quality boulder problem they haven't already done/tried.  

 Johan reaches the bag intermediate sloper 

Almost sticking the crux move

Around Town

Just a few pictures from the last week of some problems around Gothenburg.

Lars tries one Gothenburg's local projects in Gärdsås

Peter ticks off Åttabollen with the help of a few pads and spots

Peter running a lap on Sockerbiten

Peter all worked up over being the new poster boy for Kearney Journey and Crimp.se

Per-Ola in Utby

Another Little Film: Gothenburg Bouldering

Threw together another little movie from some old footage. These are a just a few problems in the Gothenburg area that I had footage of. Most of the problems are located more or less in town and don't even come close to scratching the surface of what is to be had. For those of you that don't know, Gothenburg is one of the better climbing cities I've ever seen and if it wasn't for a below average climate I'd have a hard time finding a rival.

Hope you enjoy

Gothenburg Bouldering from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Ground Control

Last autumn we rallied pads to a highball arete in Utby. It took awhile to crack the beta and muster the courage but after all we said and done a new classic was put up. Emil nabbed the fa using the tall-man sequence (and an epic topout) and I got the second ascent with the short-man beta. Here's a little vid. Enjoy.

Solo Pose-Down in Utby

I start to get the shakes if I don't climb for a couple days. Yes, I have a problem. And I've learn that if you live in Sweden you should climb like there's no tomorrow because, well, the weather gods might squash your climbing plans for a month straight. That being said, I was free on Thursday and the forecast for the foreseeable future was somewhere between mostly shitty and super shitty. This coupled with the fact that I was unable to find anyone to tackle highball projects with led me to settle for a quick circuit at Utby. Here's a little video. Enjoy and feel free to ridicule my narcissistic pose-down.

Skivbloket Project

While Göteborg is far from tapped out I've been hard pressed to find new boulders close to town that get me psyched. It's rough having only a few hours after work (and the days are getting shorter!) and we find ourselves limited to areas we've been to hundreds of times. That said, occasionally you find motivation close to home.
I eyeballed the thin dihedral on skivbloket a couple years ago but it wasn't until recently that i brushed it up and went to work. It's high, beautiful, and begs to be climbed. Little Magnus was close and with any luck we'll go back next week and do it. Could be exciting. Nice to find motivation at a local area.

reaching to the heinous crimper

trying to bypass the heinous crimper by using the shoulder-exploding gaston

Orust and Utby

Last weekend we cleaned up some sweet problems at a new area on Orust. "Team manwhore" and "the velvet hammer" alone were worth the trip and there's still plenty to do. Here's a few pics from Orust along with a couple of Lina crushing in Utby.

Dyno on the turd burger wall.

A sweet slab.

The Velvet Hammer.

Team Manwhore.

Utby

Utby

Symplegma

a little vid of johan climbing symplegma

Kartoffel Hånd

some fa's are proud, beautiful lines. the kind you obsess about and go back every chance until you stand triumphant on the top. other fa's are products of boredom from having climbed in an area too much. may i present one of the latter.
Kartoffel Hånd (what the Danish call the fist pound) is a fun roof in Utby. go do it if you get bored.