Sunshine in Sweden

So I've been back in Sweden for a month and a half now and until last week there wasn't much of a chance to get out.  Fortunately it looks like Spring decided to show up and along with flowers and rapidly growing daylight we're also getting some dry days and I'm trying to take full advantage.  The Swedes that have had the misfortune of spending the entire winter here are chomping at the bit as most of my friends have only touched real rock a handful of times since November.  Yes, Swedish winters suck.

On Sunday we took a short excursion to Bohuslän to brush some new stuff and revisit some old favorites.  Our first stop was a wall I'd stumbled upon previously and apparently it had been seen by several other climbers but no one had bothered to get on it.  It seems about time so we spent a couple hours of mostly getting our butts kicked and eventually we managed two sweet new problems.  After the flogging we mad a quick stop by Ramsviksland to show the gang Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie and brush some new stuff.  Here are some pictures from the Day.

Kim on the first problem we established.  This clean line was definitely harder than I thought it would be and took some time before Oskar nabbed the FA.  Pyssel would also send and the rest of us came up empty handed.

Oskar shows how to use a mono-fingerlock

Pyssel set up for the crux deadpoint.  Definitely harder than it looks 

Narrowly latching the last hold

The other problem we did required a delicate heel-hook and stained climbing.  This one was also harder than it looks but I somehow managed to scrape my way up it and Pyssel and Oskar both got painfully close (I'll actually sign Oskar's scorecard if he want)

Here is Kim on a cool sloper problem in Ramsviksland.  She ended up falling after grabbing the finishing "jug" due to slimy rock

We put up a couple new problems in Ramsviksland with Stefan's tricky and painful face-climb being the best of the new problems.  Many the the other projects I'd hoped to try in Ramsviksland were wet.  So it goes

Two Roofs

I made a little film of a couple FA's in Bohuslan.

Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie was miraculously sent in the summer with sub-par temps. Sometimes you just get lucky I guess. It is still waiting for a second ascent.

As for Radar, if you follow the blog you know that my dumb beta lead to a punctured finger and a bruised ego. Per-Ola got the FA and I had to go back a week later and sent first try with the good beta. That problem has now seen several ascents and will be one of the more popular problems in an area that should eventually hold quite a few problems.

Here is the video. If you want to watch it in HD I think you have to go to Vimeo.
Hope you enjoy.

Two Roof in Bohuslan, Sweden from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Ramsviksland

It was a Bohuslan weekend. Saturday we went to Ramsviksland as folks wanted to try Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie and I wanted to try some things I bushed up awhile back. Unfortunately Hamster Huey resisted a 2nd ascent (although Lars and Daniel were close) and I only managed to collect new projects as nothing new was sent. Psyched to go back as there is heaps of stuff I want to do.

On Sunday I went back to a place in Smögen to try a couple beautiful projects with good temps. I'm pretty sure both the arete and thin face we tried can be done but I'll go ahead and say they are pretty damn hard.

Here's a few pics from Ramsviksland

Peter on Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie

Lars working the beta on Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie

Lina on a cool slab that shut down all comers

A new roof project

Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie

Jonas was filming when I did the fa of the cool roof in Ramsviksland. Here's the vid of Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie

Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie from Jonas Sindler on Vimeo.

Ramsviksland

I recently visited an area in Bohuslan I'd never been to and was pleasantly surprised. I'd heard about Ramsviksland long before but certain friends deterred me with reports of chossy stone and limited rock. Needless to say my expectations were quite low. What I actually found there was heaps of rock, so much that my hours of running around only revealed a fraction as there are still plenty of large distant boulders my legs didn't take me to. The rock was larger grain that most stone in Bohuslan but a little cleaning was all that was required for most problems. There is plenty of steep stuff and in my two days there and sent one of the cooler roofs around and added several more to the project list.
Here are a few photos

A view of one of sectors at Ramsviksland

An awesome project up a wave

Fun steep project

Henrik trys to find balance

Jonas

Getting the fa of "Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie"