tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-68993540190503167692024-02-21T02:30:16.059-08:00Adventures of the Climbing Kearney Kidswalkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.comBlogger585125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-66924460114530770322017-05-22T23:21:00.000-07:002017-05-22T23:21:08.271-07:0010 Best Boulder Problems in Dartmoor: 7a and upConsidering the amount of rock and natural beauty of Dartmoor National Park the bouldering here has a less than shining reputation and I find myself often defending the place I've grown to love. To be totally fair to the haters, the large grained granite of the Moor is pretty sharp and doesn't tend to make for the best lines but you have to remember that Dartmoor is massive and can't be judged by only visiting a couple areas. I imagine most of the naysayers only checked out a few standard crags (Bonehill?) and left with their judgement clouded by smashed egos and bleeding tips. Dartmoor is so much more than just Bonehill and if you actually know where to look there are plenty of offerings that will appease even the most discerning boulderers.<br />
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If you're coming to Dartmoor for a quick visit then sifting through the chaff can be the crux of the trip as going to the "wrong" place can squander most of a day. It is with this in mind that I decided to put together list of Dartmoor's best problems above 7a so a visiting climber can tick/try the gems without the painstaking commitment of exploring themselves. <br />
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I've put lots of consideration into this list and while I consulted other locals to ensure I didn't overlook something I ultimately draw from my own "expertise" to determine which problems make the cut. So why should you listen to a yankee that only moved to England two years ago regarding Dartmoor's best problems? Well, I reckon I may be the person that has seen and done more 7th grade problems in Dartmoor than anyone else (I really do think this is the case, especially at the higher end). This is due to having the ridiculous luxury of being a stay-at-home dad (thanks to my wonderful wife Lina for making this possible) and my obsession with seeing everything firsthand. In my short time here I have put in lots of legwork so if there is a tor on a map, rock visible from satellite photos, or an area listed on UKclimbing chances are I've been there and climbed on the most notable problems (yes, there are still a few places I haven't seen/climbed but I've still got time). My explorations have also led me to "discover" plenty of new areas and cherry pick the best lines (at this point I've establish over 40 problems around Dartmoor with the majority likely being in the 7th grade). I also fancy myself a discerning boulderer and feel my extensive travels and 15 years experience make me a good candidate for judging boulder problem quality. That said, climbing is pretty subjective and ego driven and I reckon some folks will totally disagree with this list. Anyways, I'll stop stroking my own ego and give you the list. Without further ado here are the best problems in Dartmoor (7a and up)...........<br />
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<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=117297" target="_blank">Devon Sent</a>, Bovey Woods</b>: I think this is hands down the best boulder problem in Dartmoor and the only problem here I feel comfortable calling "world-class". It comes close to ticking all the boxes as it's a great line that follows awesome "veins" up a gently overhanging face. It's the perfect height (not quite highball but tall enough to make you think) with pleasing technical movement that gets progressively harder. The setting isn't necessarily anything special but an individual line up the middle of a boulder in an open forest isn't anything to scoff at either. If you are visiting the area and have to choose one boulder problem I'd recommend this one. I will say that you should be prepared to lose some skin as the crimps on Devon Sent are sharp, but that is pretty much par for the course with Dartmoor granite.<br />
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Me on the Southwest's best problem</div>
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<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=405766" target="_blank">Tropic Thunder</a>, Red Dragon Ridge</b>: Dartmoor isn't known for its steep climbing but if you like getting horizontal Tropic Thunder is the problem for you. An independent line that tackles the prow of an overhanging visor has awesome moves on good rock. Tropic Thunder also makes use of a couple of the rare xenoliths that occasionally appear in Dartmoor granite and is perhaps my finest addition to Dartmoor bouldering. Initiall I was wary about including my own first-ascents on the list but there are a few that seem to clearly belong. I also don't think this rig has yet to see a second ascent.<br />
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Holding the massive swing (crux) on Tropic Thunder</div>
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<b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BDA3Vh6Q8P8/?taken-by=kearneyjourney" target="_blank">Yankee Doodle Dandy</a>, Lustleigh</b>: Apparently this line has been know about for many years and was referred to as "the project boulder". Certainly one of the cleaner lines around, Yankee Doodle Dandy had just enough holds to make it possible and ends in the most gratifying way ever, with a spicy double dyno to the lip. When I first stumbled across this thing I was told it was a much sot after project but I can't imagine many climbers had actually put much effort in as it didn't end up being overly difficult. This is another of my first-ascents that seemed to clearly deserve to be on the list.<br />
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Yankee Doodle Dandy</div>
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<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=71252" target="_blank">Easdon Arete</a>, Easdon</b>: The Easdon area is very small with only a few problems but Easdon Arete makes this area worth a visit. A clean line (got to love aretes) with several sequences to get to the top depending on your height and strength. I'd also highly recommend Easdon Crack on the same boulder that will likely make the list for best under 7a.<br />
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Paul on Easdon Arete</div>
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<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=439184" target="_blank">Pe'ahi</a>, Bonehill</b>: Pe'ahi is located on the Wave Wall at Bonehill and climbs straight out the middle of the feature that aptly gives the wall its name. I was initially reluctant to include anything from this wall because while it is an impressive feature (and ground zero for hard Dartmoor bouldering) it suffers from an overabundance of variations. If one was to draw all the established starts/exits/traverses on a topo of the wall it would look more like my 2 year old was left unattended with a sharpie then any kind of coherent climbing information. That said, I shouldn't let my personal aversion to variations/clutter take away from one of Dartmoor's premier walls and I should say that most of the variations are "obvious" in that they follow clear features and don't eliminate anything. So if there is one line to do on the Wave Wall it is the one that navigates straight up the middle of the wave from sitting and that is Pe'ahi. The climbing is pretty straight forward and enjoyable but I found it particularly sharp and condition dependent. Fortunately it is located a stone's throw from the parking and surrounded by plenty of other climbing. Pe'ahi is also the hardest problem on this list but without any stopper moves it's a very accessible power-endurance problem.<br />
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Cailean on Pe'ahi</div>
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<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=73166" target="_blank">Creamtime</a>, Lustleigh</b>: This sweet bulge has awesome holds and great moves on some of the better rock in Dartmoor. Great problem. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QqaQDondv-Oqv1pxM7gOQvK521BLkbICMLRoTGXR4UB-yZbrBH7AQiGN9Q8hN8gAzAGQolouIT-1htiU5pVPGixFZBh7g5FALH-pdV8JEAhMhO0ocZGI6Vpn0aFPDmV305DjVkkvoYee/s1600/2015-05-25_00050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7QqaQDondv-Oqv1pxM7gOQvK521BLkbICMLRoTGXR4UB-yZbrBH7AQiGN9Q8hN8gAzAGQolouIT-1htiU5pVPGixFZBh7g5FALH-pdV8JEAhMhO0ocZGI6Vpn0aFPDmV305DjVkkvoYee/s400/2015-05-25_00050.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Mikey on Creamtime</div>
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<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=225174" target="_blank">Schmogon</a>, Holwell Tor</b>: This one doesn't get much traffic as Holwell Tor is a little off the standard circuit which is a shame because it's a good one. Schmogon follow an arete from sitting and while the crux is low the technical upper section might have some pucker factor.<br />
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<b>Javu, Lustleigh</b>: The only problem on the list I haven't done (or even tried) but I've stood underneath and can attest to the impressiveness of the line. I guess this technically is a route since it gets an E-grad but could easily be bouldered with enough pads. There isn't actually any protection so I guess you could say it has always been bouldered anyways. It's at Lustleigh and if anyone is keen I'd love to get on it but don't fancy doing it solo.<br />
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<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=117298" target="_blank">Nether Edge</a>, Bovey Woods</b>: It's easy to see the appeal of Nether Edge as it is an impressive line. This tall, blunt arete has progressively harder moves and is notorious for spitting off capable climbers. It is a bit sharp even by Dartmoor standards but the line supersedes the pain factor and Nether Edge makes the list. It is also conveniently located next to Devon Sent if you want to tick two of the best in a session.<br />
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Ian on Nether Edge</div>
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<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358837" target="_blank">Cowboy Butcher/Butcher Baker</a>, Lustleigh:</b> This problem barely makes the 7a threshold but is a worthy tick regardless of which side of the grade you think it falls on. A steep face with big moves and two exits (I prefer the direct). </div>
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Josh on Butcher Baker (direct finish)</div>
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So there is my top ten. A few of the problems should easily make everyone's list but it became increasing difficult towards the end to decide which problems to leave off. Because of that difficulty I figured I'd give some honorable mentions that very easily could have made the list. So maybe this is a top 20ish list....... </div>
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<b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BMWfolDlZ4t/?taken-by=kearneyjourney" target="_blank">All the Wray Jose</a>, Wray Cleave</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=214975" target="_blank">Arkem</a>, Bonehill</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=116925" target="_blank">Slotted Wall</a>, Bovey Woods</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=67525" target="_blank">Hung Like a Chimp</a>, Lustleigh</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHFSWi1W6Tg" target="_blank">Dancing Queen</a>/<a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=84714" target="_blank">Super Trooper</a>, Saddle Tor</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=251528" target="_blank">Jay-Z</a>, East Side Boulders</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=197511" target="_blank">Jungle VIP</a>, Lakeside Boulders</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=147336" target="_blank">Famous Grouse</a>, Bell Tor</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHFSWi1W6Tg" target="_blank">Allan Smith</a>, Hound Tor</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NHFSWi1W6Tg" target="_blank">Flying Visit</a>, Honey Bag Tor</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=186610" target="_blank">Jungle Book</a>, Bovey Woods</b><br />
<b><a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BTtb_BWB9Fg/?taken-by=kearneyjourney" target="_blank">Over the Rainbow</a>, Bovey Woods</b><br />
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There are also a few problems that should have been included but didn't because they are access sensitive. Also, if there is a problem I overlooked or something that doesn't belong make a case and maybe I'll edit the post (Javu stays on the list....).<br />
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Get out there and enjoy Dartmoor.<br />
<br />walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-81262406244999135592017-02-04T22:04:00.001-08:002017-02-04T22:04:36.797-08:00Tucson Bouldering: Redington Pass (aka Tanque Verde)Sometimes areas seem to get more spray/attention than warranted while other more deserving ones are ignored and neglected. I've never fully understood why this is but I've seen it the world over and in Tucson the great neglected area seemed to be a charming little place with the duel name of Redington Pass and/or Tanque Verde. <br />
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I actually remembered this area from an exploratory hike I did when passing through Tucson 14 years ago and never forgot the giant water-polished boulders. For this trip I asked some locals about the place and I was told it wasn't very good, they had never been and/or the other areas where much better. I started thinking my memories from all those years ago was wrong but fortunately I ignored the naysayers and went back to do some ground truthing only to discover that my memory had indeed served me well. <br />
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Redington Pass turned out to be my favorite of the lower elevation areas around Tucson as the climbing, rock and setting are all exceptional and the access is casual. Several of the best problems I did around Tucson were here and to my surprise the best of them where first ascents. It boggled my mind that such good problems had been overlooked for so long but hopefully that will change. I'd venture to say that Tanque Verde is not to be missed for the visiting boulder and is considerably better than the heavily trafficked Hairpin at the base of Mt Lemmon.<br />
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If you do go to Tanque Verde be aware that this is a nudist spot so you can let it all hang out or at the very least not be bothered if others do. Perhaps the reason the place is under the radar is because folks are scared off by birthday suits.........<br />
Here are some photos<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5iKYn0ggWuCMS65zTyD2Q_eMOXw34OzefoHnjk_hi9dIYRu8GbCO0orYTIP04QUuGnYFrz6KCvciPS6bUZsKLpxXgzHIfD9NQN8huIETJnNr5HTscCLsfbDyxKc6RZ1GrnYWbL0I1-UiX/s1600/20170104-DSC02532.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5iKYn0ggWuCMS65zTyD2Q_eMOXw34OzefoHnjk_hi9dIYRu8GbCO0orYTIP04QUuGnYFrz6KCvciPS6bUZsKLpxXgzHIfD9NQN8huIETJnNr5HTscCLsfbDyxKc6RZ1GrnYWbL0I1-UiX/s400/20170104-DSC02532.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Climbing rocks and building sand castles. Redington actually ended up being an optimal place for the family as this spot is next to the main cluster of boulders. Not a bad way to spend a winter's day.</div>
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The waterfall just downstream from the bouldering. When we first visited this area we hiked up the canyon be we later realized there is a well established trail that drops you above this waterfall and right at the boulders. The canyon was a nice hike but the trail make the approach easier.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcycN6wWElwpOFzuvLS6jqU7JEPgMbdrBnfDwtD1U59vpEev4YVqZuc1IJ4sBEhyYyk8-r-kJzHgbo47oTvlZIZmiASQ-46ubnF_u0ylA5k7UksKhZotBCgaKI8VDd-WwELqpdD7MMg9cj/s1600/20161226-DSC02168.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="348" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcycN6wWElwpOFzuvLS6jqU7JEPgMbdrBnfDwtD1U59vpEev4YVqZuc1IJ4sBEhyYyk8-r-kJzHgbo47oTvlZIZmiASQ-46ubnF_u0ylA5k7UksKhZotBCgaKI8VDd-WwELqpdD7MMg9cj/s640/20161226-DSC02168.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Prairie on a rad steep line out the belly of a massive boulder. This problem was just big moves on jugs from the stand and I added an obvious sit-start that is considerably harder. It is once again surprising that this is a first ascent but unless I hear otherwise I'm calling it Pants Off Dance Off. There are a couple impressive projects to the right that could be proper hard and definitely worthy. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuNXSezeQPPGYti1y7M9tHnUsQ5YHie2Adboboi9eUole8oLtivQ1ehkun201QglNInH40oJhc79xymbJTreN68FH_PX-lreY34iis-fwNE6lNLKt24uekh3UtmTSo7htvVsSm6cCuGgyY/s1600/20161226-DSC02149.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjuNXSezeQPPGYti1y7M9tHnUsQ5YHie2Adboboi9eUole8oLtivQ1ehkun201QglNInH40oJhc79xymbJTreN68FH_PX-lreY34iis-fwNE6lNLKt24uekh3UtmTSo7htvVsSm6cCuGgyY/s400/20161226-DSC02149.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The Pictured Boulder is a little further up canyon and had a couple impressive lines on it with the two best being listed as projects. Three of us spent the better part of 3 hours trying to figure out beta on the best one and in the end managed to crack the improbable sequence and establish Don't Get Chicked.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEoN7vzMoRvdJ1jawYOC7PivFzgIvC3f6_oy-HsMtjadAjIBaX4oleDX8zbqro-_O2ZjlccJhv3ohqLQ3p8oNdf8u8hSGswycYiMS5XVLKf-ZbUAtmzXiO7y5k1-k4l4lG82SCeQw5TupO/s1600/20161226-DSC02144.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEoN7vzMoRvdJ1jawYOC7PivFzgIvC3f6_oy-HsMtjadAjIBaX4oleDX8zbqro-_O2ZjlccJhv3ohqLQ3p8oNdf8u8hSGswycYiMS5XVLKf-ZbUAtmzXiO7y5k1-k4l4lG82SCeQw5TupO/s320/20161226-DSC02144.jpg" width="207" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20G5R6-Z8XZRYXnVoGZf60xqlxXaeSB8pU2g2vGOCDJqO8gRjUjqpCYRIVdDYZu6rM9PSt9p4i3ohiy7qnGa0ud68M_RWAg8lTJoOn3jY5ACkSOsHSFutp6aeSQwyxzo_OSarGmEFpVUP/s1600/20161226-DSC02108.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi20G5R6-Z8XZRYXnVoGZf60xqlxXaeSB8pU2g2vGOCDJqO8gRjUjqpCYRIVdDYZu6rM9PSt9p4i3ohiy7qnGa0ud68M_RWAg8lTJoOn3jY5ACkSOsHSFutp6aeSQwyxzo_OSarGmEFpVUP/s320/20161226-DSC02108.jpg" width="216" /></a></div>
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Jesse discovered that if you lay your leg on the starting self you can reach/use the horrible holds higher up and Prairie cracked the best beta for the final crux move. I thought Prairie was going to do this thing before me (thus the name) but she had to return two days later for her ascent.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDshONrBDdD90WMMAlEV3z2ljGiHiUTYMMBDeT5gCmwphd-NRKOhokjUpGYs68zEjPhGAgxLvnk3fuhKasCXUdlSTw66NftmiQfGGi4SxH-S6U8POD4MOhw_x3QdKsYmqp9gOCCzbL5_y5/s1600/20170108-DSC02712.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDshONrBDdD90WMMAlEV3z2ljGiHiUTYMMBDeT5gCmwphd-NRKOhokjUpGYs68zEjPhGAgxLvnk3fuhKasCXUdlSTw66NftmiQfGGi4SxH-S6U8POD4MOhw_x3QdKsYmqp9gOCCzbL5_y5/s320/20170108-DSC02712.jpg" width="232" /></a></div>
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Another line just to the right of Don't Get Chicked brought be back to the Pictured Boulder and ended up being just as good as its neighbor but very different climbing. There wasn't as much subtleties on this one as it just took some big pulls on decent holds. I also sit-started this one under the big rail and realized Chicked could be started here as well. I called the problem Don't Get Dicked.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCEYY6MdsY53UzYLqEn6-AcwxsGqe6XPELfn3mhA5nWnk3mvpP2nVa5kGLjjg4nDIwmqqUp0wQ6BEe3fNnKy9uICm2cL8gByTtuQkeIDxtqqhbmb8YJkZgHVy4W8pkspiYKNhbFN6Nggmb/s1600/20170104-DSC02460.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCEYY6MdsY53UzYLqEn6-AcwxsGqe6XPELfn3mhA5nWnk3mvpP2nVa5kGLjjg4nDIwmqqUp0wQ6BEe3fNnKy9uICm2cL8gByTtuQkeIDxtqqhbmb8YJkZgHVy4W8pkspiYKNhbFN6Nggmb/s400/20170104-DSC02460.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Of the established problems at Redington Pass my favorite might be Red Arete for its unassuming nature and fantastic climbing. It packs quite a lot of climbing in a small space and offered some pleasing movement.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2IHWkf67u92CKrnYJU5I1vQaui-PNlq4BdOObBSCmHf1s0VCDKoQVH_LstSdq1iU7aF7yBGDZRQ5WAbjL-22lNREtjvkNp4LUtVUJg56neHXGuhuAslr8a7IUyClXIj5Z5Eiu3O8dWVmE/s1600/20170108-DSC02646.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2IHWkf67u92CKrnYJU5I1vQaui-PNlq4BdOObBSCmHf1s0VCDKoQVH_LstSdq1iU7aF7yBGDZRQ5WAbjL-22lNREtjvkNp4LUtVUJg56neHXGuhuAslr8a7IUyClXIj5Z5Eiu3O8dWVmE/s320/20170108-DSC02646.jpg" width="207" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1LZ4lVOLB82CKuATNWAb41bGKUc63BD2MnrFRY_ES6qlVj9Rvqsw5YiSpiQqPwq7jwcjLZWvwjn18JfJQfrHvA51YDX6MS3pUsjz2RSBbgkuyzRqcXaqJ8zZCMWly73gqpqDk8LVE709l/s1600/20170108-DSC02655.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1LZ4lVOLB82CKuATNWAb41bGKUc63BD2MnrFRY_ES6qlVj9Rvqsw5YiSpiQqPwq7jwcjLZWvwjn18JfJQfrHvA51YDX6MS3pUsjz2RSBbgkuyzRqcXaqJ8zZCMWly73gqpqDk8LVE709l/s320/20170108-DSC02655.jpg" width="197" /></a></div>
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Prairie on the steep beginning of Red Arete and then navigating the polished pinches that make the crux.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cHq7bt3l2FResaRVKy-eoQJ6RQK1mxnsuIWWSupUa9RWBcjqIPQmO2PSRPLgJm3hSdzhrlFC_BDPo9hhYFn2KKdKkkQEb3A1bdt3GSQnk9VS8V-QPgcjOHPdPr5d4DbNKM_rPqYB2wvb/s1600/20170108-DSC02704.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="201" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1cHq7bt3l2FResaRVKy-eoQJ6RQK1mxnsuIWWSupUa9RWBcjqIPQmO2PSRPLgJm3hSdzhrlFC_BDPo9hhYFn2KKdKkkQEb3A1bdt3GSQnk9VS8V-QPgcjOHPdPr5d4DbNKM_rPqYB2wvb/s320/20170108-DSC02704.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Tall Smooth White One was the name appropriately given to this massive boulder. Apparently the lines hadn't been done on this block which seems hard to believe as 3 of the 4 problems I did were in the lower grades. Maybe the height has scared people off but it still seems presumptuous to claim the first ascents without a more thorough survey of the locals. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYdaZIpZZgRtQCL8__oDlUXmpSc0jjXA55LFhvV3Vx_Kxg-npMQuytavQJu0k5aGDMEgukIYQrrkY5FVYogI3NnTi1HxdLmCq8C0cS-Te2EWV2Jg66W6fZF5vajkAlcpA6ucknqjMOrEbN/s1600/20170104-DSC02570.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYdaZIpZZgRtQCL8__oDlUXmpSc0jjXA55LFhvV3Vx_Kxg-npMQuytavQJu0k5aGDMEgukIYQrrkY5FVYogI3NnTi1HxdLmCq8C0cS-Te2EWV2Jg66W6fZF5vajkAlcpA6ucknqjMOrEbN/s320/20170104-DSC02570.jpg" width="205" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8wFJkOdpVoh15YTpzbPR87xpTr6P5T0Qjs3_e-8D5CRaqPrvX61xYpHU3y0wBYdrdZFnDhUcXDr3nPxQjuo5oGUpQpKKUbsg6T0BYceXZxFX-bNwC7eu5vT6rguveXFnS5002OCbBq9OY/s1600/20170108-DSC02668.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi8wFJkOdpVoh15YTpzbPR87xpTr6P5T0Qjs3_e-8D5CRaqPrvX61xYpHU3y0wBYdrdZFnDhUcXDr3nPxQjuo5oGUpQpKKUbsg6T0BYceXZxFX-bNwC7eu5vT6rguveXFnS5002OCbBq9OY/s320/20170108-DSC02668.jpg" width="191" /></a></div>
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These are the two best problems we did on the Tall Smooth White One and they are sweet. The one on the left had just enough hold on perfect rock and is by far the hardest of the 4 problems we did (I'm calling it Clothing Optional if it hasn't been done before). The photo on the right shows Prairie using some of the amazing water polished features of the other problem we dubbed Smoothie.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij01EymLnnFiS5jGFtvXUHgbQ_3cReD_KAHo4HDAA8QsQjMHfWK3-H-dgWgR1EIyoy8FX5QyCbYz1PO_6y3yOgb6FXhq9-230wFRF1J6BumtDf-LW47bnV0bQ-jgYXrfRucoBGu8fCaxs1/s1600/20170104-DSC02554.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="372" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEij01EymLnnFiS5jGFtvXUHgbQ_3cReD_KAHo4HDAA8QsQjMHfWK3-H-dgWgR1EIyoy8FX5QyCbYz1PO_6y3yOgb6FXhq9-230wFRF1J6BumtDf-LW47bnV0bQ-jgYXrfRucoBGu8fCaxs1/s640/20170104-DSC02554.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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A parting shot overlooking Tanque Verde. Will be psyched to get back to this awesome spot.</div>
walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-28395360471301072862017-01-28T23:09:00.000-08:002017-01-28T23:09:12.386-08:00Wilderness of Rocks: Tucson's Bouldering WonderlandWilderness of Rocks was my favorite overall area around Tucson and the place has potential to put Tucson bouldering on the map. While other Tucson areas are small Wilderness of Rocks is massive as the rock is seemingly endless with the granite offering a variety of features and styles reminiscent of Black Mountain. The good stuff that has been done is unquestionably world class and only a small fraction of the stone has been explored. The best is likely yet to come and if you like exploring you could spend a lifetime establishing 3 star problems.<br />
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Logistically Wilderness of Rocks takes a bit more effort than most areas as you first drive to the end of the Catalina Hwy (45ish minute drive from Tucson) and then hike at least an hour. This is also considered a "summer area" as it provides manageable mountain temperatures when Tucson is roasting below but most winters should provide some ideal climbing days. Of course the high elevation means you can expect Wilderness of Rocks to get shut down much of the winter but fortunately a couple sunny winter day can melt enough snow to make a lot of stuff climbable, but expect to hike through a bit of snow. <br />
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Unfortunately I only managed two days in Wilderness of Rocks and I actually spent both days in the same sector but I did of course do some exploring and could very easily have spent a my entire trip here without coming close to seeing everything. Here are some photos from my days climbing in the Dog Park sector<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFamQi1ETHx3MclzMPC1KInjN1XISVNlvQzQNIEHzLUXgCr6wzY2ZEfCMVx_8WwpcPEM6NKQes9VvT_kB_vEtiJa0CEfV9zrJ6D0q_-eIr32jl3SfDLUXAbLGMzutM60AbJQuF0KSlLlq/s1600/20161223-DSC01848.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZFamQi1ETHx3MclzMPC1KInjN1XISVNlvQzQNIEHzLUXgCr6wzY2ZEfCMVx_8WwpcPEM6NKQes9VvT_kB_vEtiJa0CEfV9zrJ6D0q_-eIr32jl3SfDLUXAbLGMzutM60AbJQuF0KSlLlq/s640/20161223-DSC01848.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Sky Boulder is an amazing piece of rock ringed with great problems. Nothing quite like starting your climbing day with a warm-up on granite "alligator skin"</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdEojbLzCaH0HB72iUS2v56iuZCPTZ_UbDgvBvyXWyXyQm55JLKWYsEdkraEdQhWuu9OYzDvFlyruHvZi91dsB3MMIa9dupE2a2tJhE4B-qedtVyRNSGrOQ_8k_nAnJnXH_pooaRac9hzQ/s1600/20161223-DSC01889.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdEojbLzCaH0HB72iUS2v56iuZCPTZ_UbDgvBvyXWyXyQm55JLKWYsEdkraEdQhWuu9OYzDvFlyruHvZi91dsB3MMIa9dupE2a2tJhE4B-qedtVyRNSGrOQ_8k_nAnJnXH_pooaRac9hzQ/s400/20161223-DSC01889.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Jetpack is one of the establish problems on the steep side of the Sky Boulder. It's a bit of a one move wonder (dyno of the lip) but still a quality problems. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqlYpSJo67h-8y_sTZ9Tgjb_nmxdIy7_xfFMsmnhRG_M7iCEbcoMzfFgSR9NM8E0iHueVTtZi8-aRoJ77fKuokGYXE6L-90XVzpSyypVlnmtOMM1bjek2Pq9Yk_ggvqYcjPQdrXJTd6OxX/s1600/20161223-DSC01855.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="426" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqlYpSJo67h-8y_sTZ9Tgjb_nmxdIy7_xfFMsmnhRG_M7iCEbcoMzfFgSR9NM8E0iHueVTtZi8-aRoJ77fKuokGYXE6L-90XVzpSyypVlnmtOMM1bjek2Pq9Yk_ggvqYcjPQdrXJTd6OxX/s640/20161223-DSC01855.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Young Bigness is aptly named as the crux requires a massive move that took some effort on my part. I believe this is the hardest established problem on the boulder but there are a couple good looking projects (like the one to the left) that will take it up a few notches.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjet2uj-XD9QAP6_ViTuKhAvk497NomsrOtgbXeLhAc3zriUuJ9eK-CloN_cPCs4Aw0e7KWcFqocvv_339GIR5iweFeCk5oo2PY_x-lDIzYgbGzOFC7LkTzXVJuGIk3GEvYMv93Zb_ryFsK/s1600/20161223-DSC01922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="425" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjet2uj-XD9QAP6_ViTuKhAvk497NomsrOtgbXeLhAc3zriUuJ9eK-CloN_cPCs4Aw0e7KWcFqocvv_339GIR5iweFeCk5oo2PY_x-lDIzYgbGzOFC7LkTzXVJuGIk3GEvYMv93Zb_ryFsK/s640/20161223-DSC01922.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Before going to the Dog Park I'd seen some photos of one particular problem that I desperately wanted to check out and I didn't disappoint. The locals had established a left exit called Surfing but I was struck by the obvious line up the rail and sent a good portion of my day (and all my skin) flailing on it. It was the reason I went back to this area and after a bit more work and with the help of Alex we cracked the beta and sent one after the other. It's been dubbed Minnie's Haberdashery and is alone worth the hike.</div>
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On the left is Alex doing the crux during the FA of Minnies Haberdashery and on the right is Prairie trying Surfing.</div>
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I saw so many amazing unclimbed boulders but time restraints limited me to only establish a few. We dubbed this beautiful swooping slab Pressure Drop and it was harder (and therefore spicier) than I had expected. I ended up bailing a little right at this point but the line I'd like to do would take the non-crimp I have my left-hand on with the right-hand and do a terrifying slab dyno. I also did the striking arete on the left side this boulder. </div>
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Jefe on just another amazing boulder he cleaned up. This one is called Creep Show.</div>
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Stev on Creep Show. </div>
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On the way out from the Dog Park we walked through another sector (Magic Forest) and had just enough time to bang out a cool sloper problem called Hell Bitch. I would not recommend this problem to those of shorter stature as a couple moves are a no-go if you can't reach from the big feet. On the right is Prairie trying to dyno where taller folks just stand up. </div>
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Psyched to get back to this place.</div>
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walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-10547444001757977032017-01-23T07:57:00.000-08:002017-01-30T09:31:00.220-08:00Tucson Bouldering: Things to ConsiderHere is the first of several posts I'm hoping to do about my recent trip to the States and the climbing around Tucson, AZ. Hope you enjoy<br />
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Recently I had a great four weeks in the USA where the vast majority of my time was spent around Tucson in Southern Arizona. I took my usual systematic approach to trying to see as much of the bouldering as possible, ticking the best problems along the way, and I feel I did pretty well during my short time. It was a blast and the bouldering actually blew away my expectations and I'll venture to say this corner of Arizona should be a winter destination. Seriously, there is so much good bouldering already established (and other climbing for that matter) and the locals have only scratched the surface. There is tons of development to do and not just in the remote areas as several of the best problems I did were FAs in well established areas with easy access. The climate, quality/quantity of climbing, and the convenience of having family in the area will likely make Tucson my new winter spot. Good times.<br />
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Until I get around to going through all my photos/videos from the trip here are a few things to consider if you decide to take a bouldering trip to Tucson.<br />
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<li><b>Mt Lemmon and the Catalina Hwy. </b>Mt Lemmon technically refers to the highest point in the Santa Catalina Mountains just north of Tucson but is it used more broadly by climbers to reference the area that holds the majority of the bouldering (and rope climbing). The Catalina Hwy is what makes much of the climbing in this area possible as it winds up the mountain, gaining several thousand feet in the process and providing access to the bouldering on "Lemmon". <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Looking down on Tucson from Wilderness of Rocks up towards the top of Mt Lemmon</span></div>
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<li><b>Lots of bouldering but widely dispersed. </b>While the total amount of bouldering around Tucson is impressive, most of the individual areas are quite small and cater more to the cherry-picking hard-man than the high volume moderate climber. The exception to this rule is Wilderness of Rocks which is an expansive area where you could post up for days. Unfortunately W.o.R requires an hour plus approach and is mostly underdeveloped.</li>
<li><b>Adjustable Climate. </b>Tucson is an ideal winter spot as you can expect to climb in a t-shirt in the dead of winter. You also can "pick your conditions" to a degree as the climbing high up in the Catalinas is considerably cooler if things get too warm at the lower areas. We were pretty lucky as the higher stuff (like Wilderness of Rocks) was climbable most days but in some years snow levels might limit climbing to the lower elevations.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Only a 30ish minute drive separated our snowman and sandcastle</span></div>
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<li><b style="text-align: center;">Variety of climbing. </b><span style="text-align: center;">The bouldering around Tucson is actually quite varied as you can pull on steep pocketed volcanic, thrash your tips on granite, or slap some water-polished gneiss. The rock on Mt Lemmon alone varies between areas so don't get discouraged if you visit one place and decide it's not for you. In general I'd say Wilderness of Rocks offers some of the best stone if you don't count the water-polished stuff in the narrow canyons. And of course there is heaps of rope climbing which is meant to be pretty good (if you're into that kind of thing).</span></li>
<li><b>Potential. </b>Those that know me are aware that I like having the option to find new stuff and areas with potential have massive appeal to me. The developed climbing around Tucson will keep most people entertained for a fair amount of time but the surface has only been scratched, especially if you are willing to hike. Hopefully the locals are getting after it as I'm excite to see what they have found for my return next winter.</li>
<li><b>Old Pueblo Bouldering. </b>I almost forgot to mention a great resource for Tucson bouldering. <a href="http://www.oldpueblobouldering.com/" target="_blank">Old Pueblo Boulder (www.oldpueblobouldering.com)</a> is a database for the bouldering around Tucson and while it is far from complete it still provides loads of good information with the map feature and photos of boulders being particularly useful. The site has over 1600 boulder problems thus far and while there are some glaring omissions (like the Dog Park and Gnarnia) it is quite an undertaking and I found the site very helpful and would like to extend a big THANK YOU to those that created Old Pueblo. <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp98C7Y3aBRsA2SBFYS1aHSRUJY_zgnG6VIm-1P4dpYQizUdMb9cAj6_y3-PxNOiBO3oB0b6SwRqmD8FfUF13Rkxgne6Q6HjFuKCOokZYoh9E-qwygFEivbX41JF7MGWg_CTCRAz0hIN7L/s1600/GOPR0352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgp98C7Y3aBRsA2SBFYS1aHSRUJY_zgnG6VIm-1P4dpYQizUdMb9cAj6_y3-PxNOiBO3oB0b6SwRqmD8FfUF13Rkxgne6Q6HjFuKCOokZYoh9E-qwygFEivbX41JF7MGWg_CTCRAz0hIN7L/s400/GOPR0352.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
<span style="font-size: x-small;">This shot only shows a few of the boulders to be found at Cochise Stronghold, a little over 1 hour from Tucson.</span></li>
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walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-78032506905027798572016-12-14T22:46:00.001-08:002016-12-14T22:46:17.614-08:00Dartmoor Bouldering: Four from the MoorI'm gearing up for the annual trip to the States and I can't be more excited to see friends and family while climbing worthy rock. The trip will be a bit different this year as it is "only" 4 weeks and we'll be based out of Tucson, Arizona. Good times will be had and I'm psyched for some new rocks.<br />
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In the meantime here is a little video of 4 problems from different places on Dartmoor. All are considered area classics but some are a bit more obscure and don't get much traffic (particularly Dark Devotion). Hope you enjoy the video.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/NHFSWi1W6Tg" width="640"></iframe>walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-60567932584427192982016-11-25T03:00:00.000-08:002016-11-25T03:00:04.852-08:00Little Cottonwood Canyon: Bad News and a Bouldering VideoI'll start off by apologizing for the prolonged absence from posting. There are multiple reasons for the break and hopefully I'll get back into semi-regular posts. If there is anyone out there that still reads this blog but wants more frequent "climbing porn" then I'd recommend following my <a href="https://www.instagram.com/kearneyjourney/" target="_blank">Instagram</a>, <a href="https://www.facebook.com/kearneyjourney" target="_blank">Facebook</a>, and/or checking out <a href="http://www.climbingpics.se/" target="_blank">Climbingpics</a> (I post photos there for time to time). Ok, now to an actual blog-post.<br />
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A couple weeks back a Salt Lake City climber discovered that several problems in Little Cottonwood Canyon had been vandalized. Apparently someone went to several popular sectors and smashed/pried off some holds. There were roughly 20 problems effected and while all of them still go (I'm told most are actually easier now) it's a real shame someone would do this. Obviously the culprit had at least a basic understanding of climbing as they targeted classic problems with their blatantly malicious act. You can read more about the vandalism at <a href="http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-news/vandal-destroys-holds-on-climbs-in-little-cottonwood-canyon-utah" target="_blank">Rock and Ice</a>.<br />
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Anyways, the bad new got me thinking out Little Cottonwood Canyon and I decided to finally throw together some footage from my brief time there last year. This little video is from a brief solo session where I had a couple hours to try to do as many of the classics as I could. It ended up being very productive as I was able to do every problem on my list and even had time to add one from the 5-Mile sector across the road from Riverside. Doing this circuit is less impressive when you consider that I had previously done 5 of the 8 problems in the video but I was still pretty happy with myself. It's also worth noting that of all the problems in the video only Butt Trumpet (from the 5-Mile sector) was vandalized as the perpetrators were apparently too lazy to walk further than 20 feet from the road. <br />
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Hope you enjoy the video<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/192622048" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe>
<a href="https://vimeo.com/192622048">Little Cottonwood Canyon Bouldering: The Riverside Circuit</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user1104443">Walker Kearney</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-5114773054355310172016-05-13T04:10:00.001-07:002016-05-13T05:05:59.184-07:00Going Coastal: Tintagel Bouldering<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Tintagel is primary known for the ruins of what is believed to be King Author's legendary castle, but if you're a climber there is another attraction that is worth a visit. The bouldering at Tintagel is limited but it has what I consider to be the best single coastal boulder in the Southwest (as least the best I've seen). For the most part I've been pretty unimpressed with much of the coastal bouldering but Tintagel did not disappoint as it offers a high concentration of independent lines and a beautiful setting.</div>
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This massive boulder is the highlight of Tintagel and provides most of the good climbs on a steep face.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg59Cqn8eWVCDOj2dYMTUwPrRUKOHtUsG6VARdasQaF0vkdew282rKkog4PJUwi9pa8MeI-yDwXfsqs8xal8qkEM72hwdcOuS4DaqKmbSurBcGqswVdl7CWy6QB461QAWkh-oH2R2Wks_k4/s1600/awol.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg59Cqn8eWVCDOj2dYMTUwPrRUKOHtUsG6VARdasQaF0vkdew282rKkog4PJUwi9pa8MeI-yDwXfsqs8xal8qkEM72hwdcOuS4DaqKmbSurBcGqswVdl7CWy6QB461QAWkh-oH2R2Wks_k4/s640/awol.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Most of England's coastal bouldering is tidal. That means that you have a window around low tide when you can climb and during large swells you might be totally hosed. It also means that during the winter these areas are absolutely pummeled by winter storms that can so some serious rearranging. This shot is from my first time at Tintagel last spring and if you look at the previous photo you'll notice a couple very large boulders missing just to the left of the monster I'm climbing. The ocean is powerful and this time it was nice and made room for a couple sweet roof climbs but you never know what will happen next winter. Do yourself a favor and do these awesome climbs now in case nature wants to rearrange. </div>
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Here is Mikey doing Purple Haze, one of the main climbs on the boulder. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKF-WolKI2DWZmgFXUwD3vymMrO3qU6dxxziOw4XEoTwfOe-BbCuAw0RxmBPJ7OI9LQnVa7VQmuw345jvDLFcR6ruGLvMTzqN5ZkHTPLI10PCR-lzApamDJ3LGZbS70XXQeW171CkQez_f/s1600/20160507-DSC09126.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKF-WolKI2DWZmgFXUwD3vymMrO3qU6dxxziOw4XEoTwfOe-BbCuAw0RxmBPJ7OI9LQnVa7VQmuw345jvDLFcR6ruGLvMTzqN5ZkHTPLI10PCR-lzApamDJ3LGZbS70XXQeW171CkQez_f/s320/20160507-DSC09126.jpg" width="214" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_yc1nLUiz5Yad3GXg_So3ndCCPQnOA37WltmjDXXe0LJrQuPYHH8fOhNHIb2V0zduQlFBr6TUxuYc-HM27HC-H06CyT6Tphv9ptr3HnPO49hF-hU5ovZwNIGcgGMoVyjES3xGkcqU83_9/s1600/20160507-DSC09120.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_yc1nLUiz5Yad3GXg_So3ndCCPQnOA37WltmjDXXe0LJrQuPYHH8fOhNHIb2V0zduQlFBr6TUxuYc-HM27HC-H06CyT6Tphv9ptr3HnPO49hF-hU5ovZwNIGcgGMoVyjES3xGkcqU83_9/s320/20160507-DSC09120.jpg" width="218" /></a></div>
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Grant and Chris both fired the most sought after tick at Tintagel, Awol Apprentice. A great line and great sustained movement takes you right up the center of the massive boulder. This climb also used to be a few moves shorter but a couple years ago a large boulder was removed from underneath it and deposited under a different climb (which now is unclimbable).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy19gsMJ9kqnZXwlEP8WXlGiXWQdFZlBF6bVPQwoeDDSt_olbzLwxX93i517gKe_kAOvvhd-9FlI6Vs2C1-b2iRGY8aaUrILWk0tYN2pRMPL2bGAQ0Hihmb4Tvssk7PJe2y_I9pt0ooHB_/s1600/20160507-DSC09101.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="396" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy19gsMJ9kqnZXwlEP8WXlGiXWQdFZlBF6bVPQwoeDDSt_olbzLwxX93i517gKe_kAOvvhd-9FlI6Vs2C1-b2iRGY8aaUrILWk0tYN2pRMPL2bGAQ0Hihmb4Tvssk7PJe2y_I9pt0ooHB_/s640/20160507-DSC09101.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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While it's the straight ups that are the main draw there are plenty of linkup and variations as the boulder's features provide for plenty of alternative starts, exits and traverses. Lots of options if you want to get a get a workout. Mikey dialing in Awol in hopes of establishing the long traverse in from the left.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiihWxSYAb8l7TBv6wGmfHic6fwoaXrNVnnNh-JEX-zWDSYEIzeqoaJIiT4kg2Q6mYFOgDXgoCmXz0Xe5ZT1rAH52oAAIaOo8MUGFb6z-rRVQmtTxLh8HAGZLoTjyQuHkv2KI-Q9n18w1Gw/s1600/colorado+dreaming.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="360" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiihWxSYAb8l7TBv6wGmfHic6fwoaXrNVnnNh-JEX-zWDSYEIzeqoaJIiT4kg2Q6mYFOgDXgoCmXz0Xe5ZT1rAH52oAAIaOo8MUGFb6z-rRVQmtTxLh8HAGZLoTjyQuHkv2KI-Q9n18w1Gw/s640/colorado+dreaming.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There are several other problems on different boulders with my favorite being Colorado Dreaming. This rig requires a bit of thuggery and trickery but is well worth figuring out. I'm told this problem didn't used to be so steep as the boulder shifted a couple years back. Crazy stuff as this boulder is seriously massive.</div>
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When high tide ends your bouldering session you can mosey over to Tintagel's castle and see where King Author used to hang. Pretty cool place.</div>
walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-66147270473081254142016-04-28T08:57:00.002-07:002016-04-28T09:01:08.251-07:00Ninja Warrior Sweden: Season 2Last week they aired the final episode of the second season of Ninja Warrior Sverige (Sweden) and while no one finished <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ix-7Z4-He_o" target="_blank">André Sihms</a> and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YZ-gUaUozfc" target="_blank">David Johansson</a> got the furthest, falling at the same spot on the ultimate cliffhanger. Congrats to them and all my fellow competitors as it was a lot of fun. <br />
As for my performance, I did manage to be among the 25 competitors that made it to the finals but I consider anything short of finishing the whole course a disappointment. Those that saw the final episode witnessed me punting on an "easy" obstacle and while I have plenty of excuses for my failure it simply comes down to a lack of preparation and execution.<br />
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I do admit that I was in worse shape than <a href="http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/ninja-warrior-sverige-my-quest-to.html" target="_blank">last year</a> but the nice thing about being a climber is that my base fitness level would have been more than enough to complete every obstacle pretty easily if I didn't do anything stupid. The real crux was more a matter of focus as I was there alone with Björke and wrangling a one year old doesn't really give you much time to concentrate (or sleep for that matter). So it goes. In season 1 I walked away <a href="http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.co.uk/2015/04/ninja-warrior-sweden-unfortunate-ending.html" target="_blank">feeling cheated</a> and this year I left feeling like a big disappointment. The plus side is that I'll be better prepared for next year and I'll certainly put in some time learning to use those little trampolines. <br />
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Here are the Youtube clips of my "semi-final" run and a very short "finals-stage 1"<br />
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You can catch a glimpse of Björke at the beginning and end of the clip. I'd like to think that his crying was just his way of yelling support for his dad....</div>
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It would have payed to familiarize myself with those little trampolines. I knew I had a bad hop from the get go and had to change trajectory mid air. Unfortunately this forced me to grab the net low with straight arms which is not the way to do it. I guess I was stressing over the time but I should have taken a couple moments to do it right. Sucks to fail on something you've never had a problem with before. </div>
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walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-78555348788987669772016-04-19T11:29:00.002-07:002016-04-19T11:29:41.376-07:00Dartmoor First Ascents: The Great White SlopeLast year I removed a moss carpet from a boulder in Lustleigh to reveal a massive sloper. The feature alone made this rather short boulder suddenly very appealing and I added it straight on my to-do list. The sloper ended up being worse than it looked and I needed to wait for cold temps but to be honest I wasn't expecting this problem to be that hard. It ended up putting up a serious fight and is full on from beginning to end. In fact, just getting establish proved difficult and I had one whole session where I was never even able to attempt the first slap. I even put a rope on to try the upper moves and I can honestly say this is the shortest boulder I have ever done that for.<br />
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It took three more sessions and so much skin to crack this one and in the end I barely scraped up it. I'd be curious to hear how it goes for other folks as maybe this one just played to my weaknesses. But better get after it soon as I'm not how much longer we'll have favorable conditions.....<br />
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Here's a little video that only captures a small part of the struggle. Enjoy.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/fRnx3df9tHE" width="640"></iframe>walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-61760819421429750332016-04-13T09:23:00.000-07:002016-04-13T09:23:07.616-07:00Five Tips for a Climbing in Fontainebleau<div style="margin-bottom: 0in;">
As anyone that has been to Font can tell you, it's a magical place
and <i>the </i>best bouldering in
the world (I stand behind that statement). I think this was
my 10<sup>th</sup> trip to Font and while I'm far from fully versed on all-things-Font, I feel I've learned a
thing or two over the years and thought I'd share a few tips for anyone planning a
trip to the magical forest. So in no particular order here are my top 5 tips to optimize your
trip to Font.</div>
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<b>Bring an umbrella</b>. The weather in
Font can be notoriously bad and if your trip coincides with a rainy
spell you'll want to utilize every weather window available. That
means you'll be among the hoards of desperate climbers flocking to
the rocks when the rain stops and subsequently running for cover
when the showers return. A good umbrella and/or small tarp will be
your new best friend as they will keep you dry during short showers
or day ending rains. It can also be wise to use the tarp and
fashion a little roof in anticipation of the rain and it can even be
used to keep the top-out of your project from being saturate. It is
worth noting that you can't count on hunkering under a roof as they can be overcrowded and substantial rains will have streams of water gradually encroaching on your cover until there is no more shelter. It is no fun to pack wet gear into your car and even worse if
you're camping with a crashpad doubling as your bed. Hopefully
you'll have good weather but if you draw the short straw then do
yourself a favor and get an umbrella.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhztRWlh2vtW3zAVqFxz9it94yWx9ewM-ThfTD72PHJnNQMYx9nrlAVi3lj5ZSMRvY0Ntf5WpeHs1S_iBTrzfzRmWDZ3VKMAEONtrJSVoOzc0inW07d9XJaiqFifJR2IKhoC_rNvuGRBQD_/s1600/20160327-DSC08515.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhztRWlh2vtW3zAVqFxz9it94yWx9ewM-ThfTD72PHJnNQMYx9nrlAVi3lj5ZSMRvY0Ntf5WpeHs1S_iBTrzfzRmWDZ3VKMAEONtrJSVoOzc0inW07d9XJaiqFifJR2IKhoC_rNvuGRBQD_/s320/20160327-DSC08515.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">It could be worse, at least they have an umbrella.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"><b>Learn how to poop in the woods</b>.
Don't you just love it when you are exploring around the boulders
and encounter a minefield of human feces. Yeah, neither do I so
please be considerate and learn how to poop in the woods. If you
don't know let me break it down for you. Take a long walk far
away from trafficked areas (not just behind the first boulder or
tree) and find a suitable place to dig a sufficient sized hole.
Ideally you wouldn't leave behind toilet paper by using what nature
provides (moss, smooth sticks, rocks, etc) or packing it out but the </span><i style="text-align: center;">bare
minimum</i><span style="text-align: center;"> is to bury it with the poop. After you do your business someone
should be able to walk by without even knowing what just transpired
there. Seriously, why is this hard for so many people. The ground
is not that hard and a stick can easily be used. I could go on
ranting but I'll leave it by saying there is never an excuse for
leaving your shit for someone to step in and your toilet paper to be
blown to the wind. If you have to poop in the woods learn to do it properly and everyone will
have a better time in Fontainebleau.</span></div>
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<b>Don't go to Bas Cuvier on a
weekend</b>. It can be nice to bump into other climbers at the boulders
but it can be a bit much when you have to take a number just to try
a problem. Under normal conditions you can expect the popular areas
( Bas Cuvier, Sabot, Isatis, etc..) to be busy but during European
holidays and weekends they can feel just like Disneyland as you'll
spend most of your day waiting in lines to get on the more popular
rides. Fortunately there are multitudes of less popular areas that
are equally as good and offer the perfect
place to spend your weekends. And if you simply must try one of the
uber classics in the middle of Bas Cuvier go early in the morning
and you'll have the place to yourself, or wait until the evening we
things tend to die down.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJTV83hyphenhyphenBJidXRmYvWJQ7S5wZ2weFK7-Me7IIwMUpogSE5HTt6njSVUHu5v4iH2zcFHj2wFsDD4RpUEBiHl9BFWSoJepnkZVobFJwAW9fE29CLqyfAs2YMmopbozaFhEodAmOUIyno3UmI/s1600/20160401-DSC08739.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJTV83hyphenhyphenBJidXRmYvWJQ7S5wZ2weFK7-Me7IIwMUpogSE5HTt6njSVUHu5v4iH2zcFHj2wFsDD4RpUEBiHl9BFWSoJepnkZVobFJwAW9fE29CLqyfAs2YMmopbozaFhEodAmOUIyno3UmI/s400/20160401-DSC08739.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Henrik trying an awesome problem that we stumbled upon while exploring the boulders around Rocher d'Avon one Saturday</span><span style="font-size: x-small;">. No crowds to deal with, just sweet sweet sandstone. </span></div>
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<b>Forget your tick-list</b>. Font is
the one place I've been that genuinely has loads of amazing problems
across the entire grade spectrum and I pity those that are slaves to
their predesignated tick-lists. With so many stunning problems the
idea of spending several days trying to do a single one just seems
crazy to me. Yes, you should seek out those classics that will
challenge you but I've seen folks so hellbent on sending a
V-blahblah project that their whole trip is spent climbing on a
handful of problems. What makes Font special is the ability to run
around and do so many great problems one after the other and if it's
your first trip to Font you'd be cheating yourself by even going to the
same area over and over. So dump the tick-list and try to visit as
many of the more than 100 areas as you can. And if you really want
to appreciate Font I highly recommend doing some curcuits. You'll
do tons of great problems, see the whole area and become a better
climber. </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Henrik and Lina learning the subtleties of climbing in Font. Both these problems are on red circuits, awesome, and unlikely to stroke the ego of number-chasers. </span></div>
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<b>Drink wine and eat cheese</b>. While
you might be in Font to climb on rocks don't forget that you are in
France and should take advantage of being a tourist. A day trip (or
two?) to Paris is probably in order and there is no better way to
start your day than picking up some fresh bread from your local
boulangerie. Personally, my wine and cheese consumption goes
through the roof but there are lots of ways to embrace your inner
Frenchman/woman. Just don't take it too far because despite what
your mom says you can't quite pull off the pencil mustache and beret. </div>
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Now get out there and start planning you next trip..... </div>
walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-56763502507068069922016-04-07T14:34:00.000-07:002016-04-07T14:34:51.265-07:00Fontainebleau: Bouldering Fun for Everyone<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We've just returned from a short trip to Fontainebleau and while the weather was pretty bad during our stay we still managed to get out a bit and have a good time. Man I love Font and I can't wait to go back. The place is generally given the distinction as the best bouldering in the world and I wholeheartedly agree. The setting is awesome and it is hard to beat for quantity, quality and accessibility but what really sets Font apart is its appeal to the entire spectrum of climbers. Not only is Font great for beginners and crushers but the awesome sandstone features make the ideal playground for kids. Truly great bouldering for everyone. </div>
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Just a typical day in the forest. Font is hard to beat if you got kids in tow as the approaches are casual and most areas are extremely kid friendly. And of course the bouldering offers something for mom, dad, big sister and even the little man.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnoYcmk4rGEMTXrCzprxoKEcDagiCZxRjRAzEdRZLqf68mWXFT9fGAbElWZdCyx4GTov1YNIScxaHCVbeLzHsd3WnBUr7Apn8ziDkAe19oFc5Yzzex814tCA7NWL1ano3-2zd4RBfhzOXk/s1600/20160327-DSC08530.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnoYcmk4rGEMTXrCzprxoKEcDagiCZxRjRAzEdRZLqf68mWXFT9fGAbElWZdCyx4GTov1YNIScxaHCVbeLzHsd3WnBUr7Apn8ziDkAe19oFc5Yzzex814tCA7NWL1ano3-2zd4RBfhzOXk/s400/20160327-DSC08530.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Lina climbs a sweet slab in Canche aux Merciers while Björke tick-marks some footholds. </div>
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Martin working L'Étoile Filante at Dame Jouanne. Just another problem problem that would be considered amazing in most places but in Font it is only "pretty good". It's certainly worth checking out after you've done the dozen or so better problems in the area..... </div>
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Rêve de Pierre was a sweet looking problem in Rocher Canon that Henrik and I checked out during a short break in the rain. While this problem was fun there is a skull crushing block at the top that should be avoided at all costs. It isn't too hard to avoid but it makes top a bit harder. I really feel that someone should pry off that thing before it kills someone. </div>
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Lina about to fire one of the problems on Éléphant's fantastic black circuit. Unfortunately Éléphant is a bit rundown as the rock is softer than most other areas around Font and heavy traffic has pretty much destroyed some problems. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4HbD7Qk2yUWr9WXdDHSDzmcht2eq-horsUfsoZVJ1EpmSEJFwE_xdY22NnHWpJjGbkwxyskDK9jgAQ149JP3Y-EFUpMtJo27hxZGBDbH4HvCxRRyd2cqy6Sw0Xm0PQdxOh3yhd4FBdFot/s1600/20160401-DSC08766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4HbD7Qk2yUWr9WXdDHSDzmcht2eq-horsUfsoZVJ1EpmSEJFwE_xdY22NnHWpJjGbkwxyskDK9jgAQ149JP3Y-EFUpMtJo27hxZGBDbH4HvCxRRyd2cqy6Sw0Xm0PQdxOh3yhd4FBdFot/s400/20160401-DSC08766.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
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I'm a big fan of doing circuits while in Font and if you find yourself in Roche aux Sabots the red circuit is awesome. But if you want to complete the circuit you'll have to get past L'Angle à Jean-Luc (red 25), which is notorious for leaving folks one problem short.</div>
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La Lune was an old project for Lina and while she did get the "jug" this trip it still remains a project. Guess we'll have to go back....</div>
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If you like dynos they you'll love Font as there are plenty of them. Here Henrik fires Le Danseur at Rocher d'Avon. </div>
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Many of the climbs in Font are so good I can't help but want to repeat them. I had done La Memel a number of years ago but it was just as good a second time. Here is Henrik gunning for it.</div>
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Many people like Font for the good landings and the low to moderate height of problems but there are no shortage of highballs if you like things spicy. Tom trying to find the balance on the beautiful L'Ultime Secret at Isatis. </div>
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And of course there are the sloper, oh so many slopers. Elsa learning the subtleties of a particularly sweet sloper in Isatis. </div>
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<br />walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-64617878526925374062016-03-22T05:58:00.001-07:002016-03-22T06:15:11.590-07:00One of Dartmoor's Best Boulder Problems: Tropic Thunder<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've been racking up a fair number of first ascents here in England but I recently establish my best yet. Tropic Thunder is a real gem of Dartmoor bouldering and good enough that it could be classic anywhere in the world. In my opinion Tropic Thunder is second only to <a href="http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.co.uk/2015/07/devon-sent-best-problem-in-dartmoor.html" target="_blank">Devon Sent </a>in the Dartmoor area but folks should get out and decide for themselves. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMlh4JMG1JmwfDSIrqrpGutOXIMq7DX2eoTq1vWyAYu74buQ7jdrKbLOnQGg6dp2_Qu5oNF7O09NBKuY7368zhoHIqRO9RV3SN3F1Da5ie9gJdBn9aez7MHgxPP0FCZAIwmk_9F-tR7Uor/s1600/20160211-20160316_35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="368" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMlh4JMG1JmwfDSIrqrpGutOXIMq7DX2eoTq1vWyAYu74buQ7jdrKbLOnQGg6dp2_Qu5oNF7O09NBKuY7368zhoHIqRO9RV3SN3F1Da5ie9gJdBn9aez7MHgxPP0FCZAIwmk_9F-tR7Uor/s640/20160211-20160316_35.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Tropic Thunder climbs a prow/arete out the middle of a visor. I would have brushed up this problem had I stumbled upon it anywhere.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5N5aJ7aEGm2wPmMHDeoJkk3gXiNwlZZsnKO84yV2mh9Ob8OV-90gHR2iM-UnKg2M3or1dSwnYE6vCwt2TIG6KAagZutE1rdsq4Joybx0DXDtwLyTUjY1xav7cuy8Vt8jREogGZOuGsHVI/s1600/20160315-20160316_62.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="245" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5N5aJ7aEGm2wPmMHDeoJkk3gXiNwlZZsnKO84yV2mh9Ob8OV-90gHR2iM-UnKg2M3or1dSwnYE6vCwt2TIG6KAagZutE1rdsq4Joybx0DXDtwLyTUjY1xav7cuy8Vt8jREogGZOuGsHVI/s400/20160315-20160316_62.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">A rarity for Dartmoor, </span>Tropic Thunder<span style="text-align: left;"> it very steep and utilizes an array of heels and toe-hooks.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">Here is Mikey sticking the first move.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZAquEaYYrO-osre4oJB3iuFdkTu6rcOcks6Nzc3IjgHQY-8jPJV4m-OMcWJpPwRFWCs38Tr0IKv7H5y36GbOlTFT2hyn8UoAA3CMbchL-y0xIqkBehfhp1Bqcmnumee5jlrGIDItJJWQe/s1600/20160315-20160316_67.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="243" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZAquEaYYrO-osre4oJB3iuFdkTu6rcOcks6Nzc3IjgHQY-8jPJV4m-OMcWJpPwRFWCs38Tr0IKv7H5y36GbOlTFT2hyn8UoAA3CMbchL-y0xIqkBehfhp1Bqcmnumee5jlrGIDItJJWQe/s400/20160315-20160316_67.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Tropic Thunder also makes use of a couple xenoliths that are very uncommon around Dartmoor. Here is Tom trying to make use of a toe-hook on one of the xenoliths. </div>
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The problems climbs extremely well and it took two days to work out all the little subtleties. The crux to Tropic Thunder was figuring out what to do once you got your hands on the slopey lip while your feet are way under the roof. I found 3 different sequences but in the end it was the one that required doing a little bump and holding a massive swing that proved successful. It's always nice when everything comes together.....</div>
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If you want to check out Tropic Thunder it is pretty easy to find as it is located on the slope along the north side of Beadon Brook. Park off Beadon Lane just where it crosses the brook and either follow the brook for a bit until you see rock and scrabble up the slope or take the higher path (easier) and drop down when you see rock. This area has a bit of rock with roughly 20 established problems and more potential if you're willing to brush. Enjoy</div>
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walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-46798516507657231692016-02-10T03:25:00.001-08:002016-02-10T04:59:08.631-08:00Casa Diablo: A Treasure MapThere has been a trickle of interest regarding Casa Diablo and the questions generally include asking directions to the established problems. While I hope people take the time to explore and establish new stuff I realize a dangling carrot is often needed to get folks started. With that in mind I put together a quick map showing the exact locations of some of the better stuff that we did. <br />
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Remember that most of the points on the map will also have other development around it and there are plenty of problems that I only had time to give a quick brushing and are waiting for an ascent. And if anyone does make it out there please let me know what you find and what you think of the place. Happy hunting.<br />
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It's also worth noting that GoogleMaps might give directions to Casa Diablo Mountain from Bishop via Hwy 6 to Benton or Hwy 395 to Tom's Place. It is much shorter and faster (unless you drive 15mph the whole way) to just take Casa Diablo Rd as for the upper parking to the Sad Boulders.<br />
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<iframe height="480" src="https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=zJ6lqbqEG854.kJvbtPl6RKS4" width="640"></iframe>walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-48207041704896625062016-02-03T08:21:00.000-08:002016-02-03T08:37:48.475-08:00Casa Diablo: Things to Consider Casa Diablo is amazing. The place meets pretty much every criteria for what makes a great area, from the beautiful setting and stable climate all the way to the amazing lines and abundance of quality rock. But despite having so much going for it Casa Diablo will not appeal to most climbers. Don't get me wrong, there is certainly potential for mass appeal but I don't foresee the place getting crowded. For that to happen a few adventurous spirits would have to take a shine to the area and lay the difficult groundwork that is generally needed before the majority of climbers dare to venture from pages of their guidebooks. <br />
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It is a bit presumptuous to think a rarely read climbing-blog could seriously impact an area but I actually have mixed feelings over "spraying" about Casa Diablo. I'd hate to see it turn into the shit-show that other Bishop areas have become but after consideration I decided the only thing that would really do that is a guidebook after much development. At this point underdevelopment and a lack a information will certainly keep Casa Diablo from getting crowded, but its proximity to Bishop and the quality problems could drum up some decent traffic in a few years. Currently it will appeal to those kindred spirits that prefer a little adventure and enjoy the process of finding and developing problems. So with those folks in mind here are some things to consider if you are thinking about checking the place out<br />
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<li><b>Not all the rock is good</b>. There is a lot of choss at Casa Diablo but the good rock is bullet and worth the effort. Finding the gems can be the crux at times but the good stuff is very good. Also, much of the rock falls in the "decent" category but if you take the time to clean it up you might just unearth a classic.</li>
<li><b>General rock quality varies by area</b>. While pockets of good rock can be found all over there are certain areas that tend to have generally better rock than others. I've found areas with boulders a bit more spread out are generally better quality. Jumbles of massive boulders often have cool features but the rock requires more cleaning than I was willing to put in.</li>
<li><b>It deserves more than a quick look</b>. My psych for Casa Diablo grew every day I spent there because I hiked and brushed a lot. A couple of the best problems were missed on previous days and taking a second or a third look can often have a big payoff. </li>
<li><b>Be prepared to hike/scramble</b>. Finding the good stuff could require trudging around and while some of it is very close to the vehicle you'll be missing out if you aren't willing to go wander a bit. Lazy people probably won't appreciate Casa Diablo and will be waiting for a guidebook that will hopefully never come.</li>
<li><b>It's an easy hang</b>. Casa Diablo is easy to get to (type "<a href="https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/Casa+Diablo+Mountain,+California,+USA/@37.5764478,-118.5551009,1184m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m2!3m1!1s0x80be06935efa5321:0xfd11bc48e3451699?hl=en" target="_blank">Casa Diablo Mountain</a>" in GoogleEarth/Maps) and is reachable in even a standard car. Camping is free (public land), cell coverage is great and the view/setting is stunning. It's worth noting that I always approached from the obvious parking to the west and the very last bit of road is quite steep. </li>
<li><b>I haven't seen it all</b>. I really tried to see as much of Casa Diablo as I could but I had limited time and often a kid (or two) in tow. I've found some mega stuff but I haven't come close to seeing it all. You never know what is still out there to find.</li>
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If anyone does take the time to check the place out I'd love to know what you think and hear about what new problems you put up. Here are some more pictures from my time there.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLYK_RntI_iHeEjFUFicr0FbenwUxQp2kpNCWXGAt4uWv_nSe-ai_XP_7ONYlmonvpFPeRJMbKJDam_mIYQhMSo9N02OyAc-uPlqk4ejCv254P1li9Jb5tdhw5mSdoTBU-p_ssvbsV_so1/s1600/2015-02-06_00057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="411" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLYK_RntI_iHeEjFUFicr0FbenwUxQp2kpNCWXGAt4uWv_nSe-ai_XP_7ONYlmonvpFPeRJMbKJDam_mIYQhMSo9N02OyAc-uPlqk4ejCv254P1li9Jb5tdhw5mSdoTBU-p_ssvbsV_so1/s640/2015-02-06_00057.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>Tooth Decay</i> was one of my favorite moderates. Techy with the holds and feet in just the right places for it to work. I also added a sit-start from the big scoop at the bottom. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj7vG_IRJMi68yF1gkbv1NDQMMXgXcfXib4Lb6m7Jc5UFq6yt70OZvV5RitINh32avE0LifD2V3-OMTTxSnfgAYhRh82HFKi9paSOI3gtiGvFVApUpAO_AiiWY2DEqaYYazn8jvjhaq_rn/s1600/2015-02-06_00063.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj7vG_IRJMi68yF1gkbv1NDQMMXgXcfXib4Lb6m7Jc5UFq6yt70OZvV5RitINh32avE0LifD2V3-OMTTxSnfgAYhRh82HFKi9paSOI3gtiGvFVApUpAO_AiiWY2DEqaYYazn8jvjhaq_rn/s400/2015-02-06_00063.jpg" width="267" /></a></div>
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Prairie was painfully close to doing <i>Tooth Decay</i> but always came up just short on the big crux move</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsw-9eOtdzclmABQ7rLx6uqg0t_fxF6Vglw-7rWYyn36yEmPJMlCUjNucfAJXfmHqRE3INILNn5Vyn3YiTIGhWlbaVpnnDCyvACl6qdqP0ckoTWL2942Q2SptYkH33lbQ_1g1SaAVgYe-c/s1600/20151223-DSC07654.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="409" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsw-9eOtdzclmABQ7rLx6uqg0t_fxF6Vglw-7rWYyn36yEmPJMlCUjNucfAJXfmHqRE3INILNn5Vyn3YiTIGhWlbaVpnnDCyvACl6qdqP0ckoTWL2942Q2SptYkH33lbQ_1g1SaAVgYe-c/s640/20151223-DSC07654.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This project is one of those that will require a lot of cleaning as the rock isn't great but will be manageable. Usually I wouldn't bother but this one was so beautiful it could be worth the effort. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdSBFCiKXvH3jQ9yAxFZQuhtmm3BBC_HeSEUYit9o2RHbkPZx-xp5eK2hBt8JZsvHwcQw6QA3G23CLU3Nzlj8TDOgh4zGJDQ9HRAVbUBEijw58ZWG8X3rSxtsECTafL9-alO5m3zmm10n6/s1600/20151223-DSC07661.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdSBFCiKXvH3jQ9yAxFZQuhtmm3BBC_HeSEUYit9o2RHbkPZx-xp5eK2hBt8JZsvHwcQw6QA3G23CLU3Nzlj8TDOgh4zGJDQ9HRAVbUBEijw58ZWG8X3rSxtsECTafL9-alO5m3zmm10n6/s400/20151223-DSC07661.jpg" width="272" /></a></div>
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Tom and I did a few "filler" problems near the Mega-Boulder and they cleaned up nice. Here is one of them</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlDRDT2e6LMk9Lp3vXPvCjgrG0Smt8TfJU8xYsjZjE9Ted6htjSpM7vZZy32wNDEOERCGk2LO08kwGAV-w1I9N_AaJTqYne5q4aVOaPMLDQA7c6b2BiW7XZS6VYQlQJVh5YDf6b7dkoEu3/s1600/20151224-DSC07686.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlDRDT2e6LMk9Lp3vXPvCjgrG0Smt8TfJU8xYsjZjE9Ted6htjSpM7vZZy32wNDEOERCGk2LO08kwGAV-w1I9N_AaJTqYne5q4aVOaPMLDQA7c6b2BiW7XZS6VYQlQJVh5YDf6b7dkoEu3/s640/20151224-DSC07686.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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This boulder had beautiful patina and I originally thought the middle line would be a classic warm-up. It ended up being harder than I thought and is now a classic moderate I called <i>Mi Casa</i>. I also did a sweet one to the right and there are two to the left I didn't get around to. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSNPPgIS3L26K68LtmNUwUkJnv1weWEekWsuQCsWbs_XXvcl242E0HUDSfXnJ_We92Cs7ctAxCUvqjZyoyRuopoXoH4DbXHMrwUAJ_wFbidI28bLJAY5X5NchI-mwydC9dyEiHcji8YFMQ/s1600/20151224-DSC07681.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSNPPgIS3L26K68LtmNUwUkJnv1weWEekWsuQCsWbs_XXvcl242E0HUDSfXnJ_We92Cs7ctAxCUvqjZyoyRuopoXoH4DbXHMrwUAJ_wFbidI28bLJAY5X5NchI-mwydC9dyEiHcji8YFMQ/s400/20151224-DSC07681.jpg" width="268" /></a></div>
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The problem to the right which I called <i>Tu Casa</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-6t3cAV89DHoLarn7V6egLrnhB3uM37WWl69nutWziOoheSTCLidvPaTjTkv4ETVbXZEWgB1mRB0gH5cjTJWjdKvCTOZojkkbSzBKzqp1Z5tIT15xigHnpVpepKo5cvxp3LEVNZgG5Q4/s1600/20151225-DSC07754.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="416" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhC-6t3cAV89DHoLarn7V6egLrnhB3uM37WWl69nutWziOoheSTCLidvPaTjTkv4ETVbXZEWgB1mRB0gH5cjTJWjdKvCTOZojkkbSzBKzqp1Z5tIT15xigHnpVpepKo5cvxp3LEVNZgG5Q4/s640/20151225-DSC07754.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I stumbled upon this boulder after already exploring the same area on previous days. Crazy how I somehow missed this one and shows the importance of being thorough in your exploration. The arete is one an awesome moderate I called Hell <i>Freezes Over</i> and there are a couple things on this boulder I'd love to get back to.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkMCjvegauhnRaYfLch-zljVwtKILcZqV2rkpfmSFH_pZBVlZMrJObF6DAYP-7NbQ7O9RGt4PdEBYNVFpKQcuy2A3Me3LE4jmN-wBOxF2OEXhO6we-roXBmAA3GWgrxP_k8zO2ey0Pf1xZ/s1600/20151226-DSC07778.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="388" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkMCjvegauhnRaYfLch-zljVwtKILcZqV2rkpfmSFH_pZBVlZMrJObF6DAYP-7NbQ7O9RGt4PdEBYNVFpKQcuy2A3Me3LE4jmN-wBOxF2OEXhO6we-roXBmAA3GWgrxP_k8zO2ey0Pf1xZ/s640/20151226-DSC07778.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<i>The Devil Wears Prana</i> is probably the hardest thing I put up in Casa Diablo. I even stayed an extra day just to do this and my many attempts are probably the reason I couldn't muster doing the awesome arete on the Mega-Boulder. All in all I'd say it was worth it as this thing was pretty sweet.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hyphenhyphenGd-yuTlilWaSYMCu8bmgplW_fJBjO1YJdAf5GwJbIefEq8pB04_ORfPwGAyvtgsZCGzI47rTxILIpyOOUeWwSA7Hf61xkd1rXdopctKxGSg323iqPlzGROVTWFiMdR4R76sE2ueKTg/s1600/20151226-DSC07779.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1hyphenhyphenGd-yuTlilWaSYMCu8bmgplW_fJBjO1YJdAf5GwJbIefEq8pB04_ORfPwGAyvtgsZCGzI47rTxILIpyOOUeWwSA7Hf61xkd1rXdopctKxGSg323iqPlzGROVTWFiMdR4R76sE2ueKTg/s640/20151226-DSC07779.jpg" width="454" /></a></div>
This shot of <i>The Devil Wears Prana</i> gives you a better idea of the problems. First you tackle a big "Huecoesque" roof with the help of two knee-bars before busting out to some bad slopers. The crux is the end and took quite a bit of refining before I could put it together. <br />
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<br />walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-33010115666864707302016-01-26T05:13:00.000-08:002016-01-26T05:13:03.867-08:00Casa Diablo: The Mega-BoulderCasa Diablo is certainly more than just a one-trick pony as there are multitudes of amazing problems scattered around. That said, there is one particular boulder that stands out and has received more of my attention than any other in the area. I've dubbed it the "Mega-Boulder" due to it's quality/size and, as I said before, it alone is worth a trip.<br />
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The steep face that I'm so enamored has yielded two world-class problems (yes, they would be classic anywhere in the world) and the 2 or 3 projects remaining on the boulder are worthy problems as well. Here are a few pictures and commentary<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmSjJtsZAQf8wkeAYJwFnHFT1hmBFSbSghLlUjUkKM3Nj7m48t9bLhn7yDmtrIDaaMvER3EP8eZ2CHXvnm81UNYmttvq1wP3c0P4Kny0hahq5PIm8zvFMLE0LuS2l6-QpzYBuFa2npcNz8/s1600/20151223-DSC07667.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="362" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmSjJtsZAQf8wkeAYJwFnHFT1hmBFSbSghLlUjUkKM3Nj7m48t9bLhn7yDmtrIDaaMvER3EP8eZ2CHXvnm81UNYmttvq1wP3c0P4Kny0hahq5PIm8zvFMLE0LuS2l6-QpzYBuFa2npcNz8/s640/20151223-DSC07667.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Mega-Boulder. Tom is standing under Midnight Roses with the stunning arete to the right and the rope hanging down over a project we never got around to trying. Far to the left and obscured by a tree is another project we brushed up that will be a nice addition. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGiqp1FU-23f2Enz_7uXTBu7ol8YtsW8Xr36rQeRbSL2yQbKU3TFSgPERoQowH44SrAgcOfPA8ZImuL_hzN0Ox1abxxj3O-ODhnqSgSkE5sg5Tdp425slagZCjmv4iLQgfkJMPaZ9qmCYq/s1600/2015-01-15_00019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGiqp1FU-23f2Enz_7uXTBu7ol8YtsW8Xr36rQeRbSL2yQbKU3TFSgPERoQowH44SrAgcOfPA8ZImuL_hzN0Ox1abxxj3O-ODhnqSgSkE5sg5Tdp425slagZCjmv4iLQgfkJMPaZ9qmCYq/s400/2015-01-15_00019.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Noah laying eyes on the boulder for the first time. The boulder is massive but since the top-out is low angle it makes for perfect bouldering. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj38jee0y-uWCCYrUE5MBiVKMQwT-GLBSjlOhqX3dO5rVyCcoBO0IIlZvJvKqQbSa13wTituidSvZ8gtSaitzIllXVS1oZ5Hdvry9TghbEZ_YY2Sr9kE5AsiIeW0-ogP_JuDcnqMGX_TlV/s1600/2015-01-15_00020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjj38jee0y-uWCCYrUE5MBiVKMQwT-GLBSjlOhqX3dO5rVyCcoBO0IIlZvJvKqQbSa13wTituidSvZ8gtSaitzIllXVS1oZ5Hdvry9TghbEZ_YY2Sr9kE5AsiIeW0-ogP_JuDcnqMGX_TlV/s400/2015-01-15_00020.jpg" width="223" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAw6IE_DP-JH5GkS6LGP3t3Mbo7RJj_Lhg3QWaIlFqg2_TrPVM9Oh3KqyQpdegtjN0W_jHpjQtpxF-J1du_y7J1ZVB9kRO8R1jJJGzYBgqexOMI-knQYePGiMoAjtAmaEBuHe6MRUioBeN/s1600/20151223-DSC07657.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAw6IE_DP-JH5GkS6LGP3t3Mbo7RJj_Lhg3QWaIlFqg2_TrPVM9Oh3KqyQpdegtjN0W_jHpjQtpxF-J1du_y7J1ZVB9kRO8R1jJJGzYBgqexOMI-knQYePGiMoAjtAmaEBuHe6MRUioBeN/s400/20151223-DSC07657.jpg" width="271" /></a></div>
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While Midnight Roses was the first problem we did, it was the arete that I originally took a shine to. It's one of those lines that you know is doable but the difficulty is hard to assess and the fact that it is highball with a tiered landing means overcoming fear will also be a major obstacle. Last winter's ground-up attempts proved terrifying but this year we cracked the beta on rope and then tried to dial in the crux sequence before going cordless.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpcrIPFblsBOMARbtHu-vZi36gEDvc3ZQFOoxU8tYmc8sRKr1GTLIHUgNYRw0BGUF-5hhrYKAYY0XfTBqgl_e2j-LxvD2hupculbcXMY6WyFzBnTB88VinmXHlPLgOFob5lMlSrnkMGc43/s1600/2015-02-05_00044.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpcrIPFblsBOMARbtHu-vZi36gEDvc3ZQFOoxU8tYmc8sRKr1GTLIHUgNYRw0BGUF-5hhrYKAYY0XfTBqgl_e2j-LxvD2hupculbcXMY6WyFzBnTB88VinmXHlPLgOFob5lMlSrnkMGc43/s400/2015-02-05_00044.jpg" width="248" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZeeYtAriwzW50KGEKoZnzNl1RyiNvo7vgu5088_IoD31mJHJliWFiio-TLSpBofhQWkgTtHHM8B41ZXGSmhEcPg9IR_6_r4mZtXDiqY4M_7G6TYFI0hbP3q5dtv_ezgjTZc8gkzBb0t4/s1600/20151225-DSC07755.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWZeeYtAriwzW50KGEKoZnzNl1RyiNvo7vgu5088_IoD31mJHJliWFiio-TLSpBofhQWkgTtHHM8B41ZXGSmhEcPg9IR_6_r4mZtXDiqY4M_7G6TYFI0hbP3q5dtv_ezgjTZc8gkzBb0t4/s400/20151225-DSC07755.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
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Even though working the arete on rope eliminated a degree of uncertainty it was still unnerving to climb without a grip of pads. Since neither Tom nor myself are famous enough to attract a posse to contribute pads Tom decided to set up his circus net (seen in the photo to the right). That's right, Tom has a circus net for just such occasions and the fact he busted it out speaks to the quality of this problem as it is no easy task to set it up. In the end I think Tom would say it was worth it as the effort culminated with him safely on top of the Mega-Boulder. I wasn't so fortunate and while I have lots of excuses for my failure I'm kicking myself for not taking full advantage of the cushy landing. I can't remember what Tom called this one but it is awesome.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPrCrYFXCqM7t8jFT1vPdt70Ae88qjRlIwcknW9Rev7WwGsJjKsnwIrLHVd8zstsj3ACm1lvbMSKKvmjyaEW440Anb1VE-IkvYV9-gyH82U7HNYitUeE83xyjnxmJCxEuKY47D4FmJ0MR/s1600/20151222-DSC07608.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgbPrCrYFXCqM7t8jFT1vPdt70Ae88qjRlIwcknW9Rev7WwGsJjKsnwIrLHVd8zstsj3ACm1lvbMSKKvmjyaEW440Anb1VE-IkvYV9-gyH82U7HNYitUeE83xyjnxmJCxEuKY47D4FmJ0MR/s640/20151222-DSC07608.jpg" width="411" /></a></div>
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Midnight Roses was the first problem we establish but it didn't go down easy either. We resorted to working this problem on rope (Lisa doing just that in the photo) and the beta took some refining before we put it all together.</div>
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Midnight Roses is actually fairly sustained but the first move proved to be the physical crux. The "standard" beta involves a big right-hand move to a sloper but there is also alternative beta that better suites those of shorter stature. Lisa and Noah demonstrate the different options. </div>
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This problem definitely goes on my list of favorite first ascents* and it is an amazing addition to a region that is already renowned for its climbing.</div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">*technically Tom did it first but we sent in rapid succession and the process certainly was a team effort. All depends on how you look at it</span></div>
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Another angle of Midnight Roses that helps you get the idea of how steep the boulder is at the start. It ain't really over until you're standing on the holds above the lip.</div>
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One final photo of Tom on Midnight Roses. </div>
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<br />walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-76380094403437930012016-01-20T05:49:00.000-08:002016-01-20T05:49:01.859-08:00Casa Diablo: Bishop's Untapped Granite Bouldering I know it might be hard for some to understand but I've been over Bishop bouldering for a number of years now. Don't get me wrong, Bishop is great and this is a classic case of "it's not you, it's me". I've just spent too much time in Bishop and the last few years in have lacked psyche as I've been reduced to circuiting, seeking out obscurities and occasionally sending a "hard" problem. Of course I always find myself coming back as the winter climbing options are pretty limited and most of the other spots (Hueco, JTree, Vegas, Moes, etc..) suffer the same fate as Bishop. I do realize I'm spoiled but after 15 years of climbing I'm having a harder and harder time finding spots that provide a reasonable climate and get me excited. Well last winter Bishop suddenly jumped back on my radar as I happened upon a place that makes me very excited, Casa Diablo.<br />
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Casa Diablo is not new or secret (not that I know of at least, or not anymore.....) and I've actually known about it's existence for roughly 6 years but never made the trip to check it out. I'd been meaning to go but the reports on the place weren't good and I'm generally only in Bishop for a week with the family so I didn't make it a priority. Another factor was that the amount of climbable rock around Bishop is staggering and I focused on other “new/secret” areas I caught wind of. At this point I feel I've seen the majority of Bishop's many unpublished satellite areas as I began to seek them out in earnest when my motivation started to wane but I never found a place that made Bishop shine again. All the new areas served as only minor distractions, providing a few days of motivation at most and some of them were so underwhelming that I never put on my shoes. Of course I enjoyed the process of searching but had started to give up hope that anything substantial was out there, until last year when I decided to check out a massive collection of granite that I hoped wasn't total choss.<br />
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I convinced my good friend Noah to join me for that first inspection of Casa Diablo and before even getting out of the car I knew we would find something worthy. From where we parked I could see rock with solid patina and rounded huecos and I simply did the math; I knew from studying satellite images that there were thousands of boulders and lets be conservative and say only 10% is good rock. Well, you're still looking at hundreds of quality boulders and with those numbers I knew that somewhere in that mountain of granite it would all come together to make some 3 and maybe even 4 star boulder problems. The crux of course would be finding them.<br />
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Long story short, I strapped my infant son to my chest and Noah and I spent roughly 6 hours hiking around. We split up to optimize productivity and occasionally came back together when drawn in by a shriek of joy and a request to "come check this thing out". We saw plenty of great things to climb on but it all culminated around the discovery of a dream boulder that was so good we new it would be the starting point of our development. Since that first day I've spent roughly a week in Casa Diablo and every time I get more excited about the place. Of course the fact that I live in Europe makes getting back to Casa Diablo difficult but it sure is nice having a reason to go back to Bishop.<br />
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Here are some pictures and I'll try to get around to posting some more information in the near future.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQUOcDUA3vBsCpKHVxIu3mdiySchwsrMB0NQevvxPd_8zlNpcgA13uzVI8YW_hRPQWjoZYfyhNVMLG7KHv-2yW9rTdajr9Vc3bZLwxec26L_EqxhKKBLVUrXLWwMmUjYxrehxkyxOLfWTC/s1600/20151224-DSC07690.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="284" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgQUOcDUA3vBsCpKHVxIu3mdiySchwsrMB0NQevvxPd_8zlNpcgA13uzVI8YW_hRPQWjoZYfyhNVMLG7KHv-2yW9rTdajr9Vc3bZLwxec26L_EqxhKKBLVUrXLWwMmUjYxrehxkyxOLfWTC/s640/20151224-DSC07690.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Casa Diablo. I've spent several days hiking around and haven't come close to seeing everything. Check out satellite images to help grasp how much there is in the area</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2sdSGzgTARMDy-ZQySdaZEGYvZiACrbN_hLCdIkfLbt2tBCTzdabykyruQsNJBk99p7v6lsHb5L1CsgqDCejbm8MhwekmQPC3BzbMOzgqKRTH8eOV_F8ztDmeBfmjczkE6RcddP9sFv8V/s1600/2015-02-05_00051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh2sdSGzgTARMDy-ZQySdaZEGYvZiACrbN_hLCdIkfLbt2tBCTzdabykyruQsNJBk99p7v6lsHb5L1CsgqDCejbm8MhwekmQPC3BzbMOzgqKRTH8eOV_F8ztDmeBfmjczkE6RcddP9sFv8V/s400/2015-02-05_00051.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Noah is a little camouflaged in this picture but if you find him it'll give you scale for this impressive looking boulder</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhddnCQS0tgkaPJKulapb1J9TmFHNb7GDNmIhB3gS_NowAt7QkJUJTzp_J9muTdIjzpLZ185vkQc5pvN5r7hs2l4E0qeUz1edtGDDtAiGw7WUkaO-UEw3_pcPW-SZ6TTBJXISN28Dg8deOz/s1600/2015-01-15_00010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhddnCQS0tgkaPJKulapb1J9TmFHNb7GDNmIhB3gS_NowAt7QkJUJTzp_J9muTdIjzpLZ185vkQc5pvN5r7hs2l4E0qeUz1edtGDDtAiGw7WUkaO-UEw3_pcPW-SZ6TTBJXISN28Dg8deOz/s200/2015-01-15_00010.jpg" width="112" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhddnCQS0tgkaPJKulapb1J9TmFHNb7GDNmIhB3gS_NowAt7QkJUJTzp_J9muTdIjzpLZ185vkQc5pvN5r7hs2l4E0qeUz1edtGDDtAiGw7WUkaO-UEw3_pcPW-SZ6TTBJXISN28Dg8deOz/s1600/2015-01-15_00010.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOURDEjV9lxES-eh-jxwXMkpLsSPL0piK_MHGKXmGcnWy25gffoI9VnyJayjAzEchK-xxARvVDWlxsfVU3dAe_9FmcRKKPE88ZztFqLQ7O9T7SCVaW-Ryi-PeYTdPWp7FCrn1gZopIsJo/s1600/2015-02-05_00053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: right;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieOURDEjV9lxES-eh-jxwXMkpLsSPL0piK_MHGKXmGcnWy25gffoI9VnyJayjAzEchK-xxARvVDWlxsfVU3dAe_9FmcRKKPE88ZztFqLQ7O9T7SCVaW-Ryi-PeYTdPWp7FCrn1gZopIsJo/s200/2015-02-05_00053.jpg" width="127" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLLffZNXQ0_C6CSSYrLhzseSO6qhE5KpoKuoJR-hLTHnaMlHtCwNgbBKASduUKYjlxkPbeYEMx3p20HzFlJ1X5DKsoFcLsWMJ7kI_i10LqwSi9HKP26yWZeKB6wY0Wx0NpNwPV-SRijyRc/s1600/2015-01-15_00018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="179" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLLffZNXQ0_C6CSSYrLhzseSO6qhE5KpoKuoJR-hLTHnaMlHtCwNgbBKASduUKYjlxkPbeYEMx3p20HzFlJ1X5DKsoFcLsWMJ7kI_i10LqwSi9HKP26yWZeKB6wY0Wx0NpNwPV-SRijyRc/s320/2015-01-15_00018.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-JzINxm9RepzjzoZpw4B99NPtm3JH7-pNR5Ww7dZLAckpO-SXqOSS0kwyHWtP8ZaPKFdiAIMRuLAnSr6ie3a2ov9WxnC105ozZAZu-tIbnO7B2HccBF9Ay4XNmWmvkNgie2KBSKylYxnd/s1600/2015-01-15_00015.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-JzINxm9RepzjzoZpw4B99NPtm3JH7-pNR5Ww7dZLAckpO-SXqOSS0kwyHWtP8ZaPKFdiAIMRuLAnSr6ie3a2ov9WxnC105ozZAZu-tIbnO7B2HccBF9Ay4XNmWmvkNgie2KBSKylYxnd/s320/2015-01-15_00015.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'll try to spare readers from too many pictures of boulders from that first day of hiking around but you get the idea. We saw so many things it was hard to wrap our heads around it. Clockwise from upper left 1) A cool roof with huecos and edges that proved too hard for us. 2) A highball with amazing hueco features. 3) The roof lacked enough features but the arete/prow is a top quality moderate. 4) A wall with bullet rock.<br />
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And then there was the Mega-Boulder. When we saw this thing we new our search was over as this thing alone would make a return trip more than worth it. More on this boulder in another post....<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOx6COoGsfSJi3vxEVqqwhlabxdRBAyIkCokpdybzh0tLMTYwKuY7qk8eJMX2D3Ofz8qKrRX7ao0grYjp1FWQXSchXwhZ_riZDdq_-CPFXEai65wKqC6FAHW0rBdwPp0YTYpA2Lb5kLYeg/s1600/2015-02-04_00030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="419" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOx6COoGsfSJi3vxEVqqwhlabxdRBAyIkCokpdybzh0tLMTYwKuY7qk8eJMX2D3Ofz8qKrRX7ao0grYjp1FWQXSchXwhZ_riZDdq_-CPFXEai65wKqC6FAHW0rBdwPp0YTYpA2Lb5kLYeg/s640/2015-02-04_00030.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Nick on a worthy easy/moderate. This problem may have been climbed on before and will be an area classic.</div>
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Prairie with a solid spot from Nick</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpJHHhctDRlsD6XksLSx7im1HPmtpvzmW29nCVZFwkUDVY32aaAOr9cpMWFwKeQPmzB-B6GZc17Xd2-QHfRfzZhtRGSOfChcdi1gfwxKutgIluKKEZwYPbJX5GO-D_kY9Qh7BNpMxliuZx/s1600/2015-02-05_00036.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="392" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpJHHhctDRlsD6XksLSx7im1HPmtpvzmW29nCVZFwkUDVY32aaAOr9cpMWFwKeQPmzB-B6GZc17Xd2-QHfRfzZhtRGSOfChcdi1gfwxKutgIluKKEZwYPbJX5GO-D_kY9Qh7BNpMxliuZx/s640/2015-02-05_00036.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Noah on a project. This thing is a stone's throw from the parking which makes me think it may have been tried before but I suspect it hasn't been done. We figured out all the moves but it wasn't easy.</div>
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I convinced Jay (spotting Prairie in the photo) to join us for a day last winter and we hiked to a new sector I had scoped to establish some moderates. This wall was stellar as it offered top quality rock and some rare granite tufa features. </div>
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Prairie unlocking the stemming sequence for the start of Old Pine. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHlzwiOOTDzWbMlLgZ5GKiSdQniLnC7qe9NB3cksWr_twQHzjfgnUeQoNftYNs3iirke3OlBkQNJBoGYgDRjCv6ckWy_HI5PSORL1BtjQxevK4e6JIeRjEVEGPKiz6MZvQ7OSsPIm4Yuds/s1600/2015-02-05_00049.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHlzwiOOTDzWbMlLgZ5GKiSdQniLnC7qe9NB3cksWr_twQHzjfgnUeQoNftYNs3iirke3OlBkQNJBoGYgDRjCv6ckWy_HI5PSORL1BtjQxevK4e6JIeRjEVEGPKiz6MZvQ7OSsPIm4Yuds/s400/2015-02-05_00049.jpg" width="247" /></a></div>
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A tricky crack climb we established on our way out one day.</div>
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I've put 3 sessions into this project but came up empty handed. It might have gone down if I had the discipline to actually rest but with so much to do it's hard to take a proper off-day instead of "only" developing moderates. One of the many problems waiting until next time......</div>
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walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-67587865346384373132016-01-10T21:14:00.001-08:002016-02-10T04:59:33.180-08:00Some Shots from the Road<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I'm wrapping up four weeks in the States and it's safe to say the trip hasn't quite worked out as expected as a broken computer kept the blog silent and a broken van curbed movement and climbing. So it goes. I'll catch up with some retro-posting soon and in the meantime here are some shots from the road.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0K_pj6bhj4uH34k9yJXS899KnsVQSNp9RtU1KtejEOYuvzP96JySJFKm8wtakZc9FSziu8hLvR6Mj_b6Yyz8v0jVVL_vXpNCvt07CH2E2a4naHsWNFti4hiY-DBddB0Wdc_47wgcHJIXl/s1600/20151219-DSC07479.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="227" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0K_pj6bhj4uH34k9yJXS899KnsVQSNp9RtU1KtejEOYuvzP96JySJFKm8wtakZc9FSziu8hLvR6Mj_b6Yyz8v0jVVL_vXpNCvt07CH2E2a4naHsWNFti4hiY-DBddB0Wdc_47wgcHJIXl/s400/20151219-DSC07479.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I drove through this little town in California where I'm kind of a big deal. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfZ8_7nf0bGY9GIQGe6pGgPJ41QS8FdOCrTmOm3IwMCxMuSNPtKGlmh4aXntedJWPN0RNae-uz22bbs8mbAuLw_8rQK5uTz-KRyaEASNof5SkszTDq1JsCrMycCv2QIzII-rEBgAZ9auUs/s1600/20151219-DSC07492.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="242" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfZ8_7nf0bGY9GIQGe6pGgPJ41QS8FdOCrTmOm3IwMCxMuSNPtKGlmh4aXntedJWPN0RNae-uz22bbs8mbAuLw_8rQK5uTz-KRyaEASNof5SkszTDq1JsCrMycCv2QIzII-rEBgAZ9auUs/s400/20151219-DSC07492.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Just south of Walker (the town, not me) on Hwy 395 is a lone boulder that offers a perfect pit-stop. I stopped for a quick session and ended up getting sucked in to trying a project for 4 hours. Fortunately my buddy Tom randomly drove by and stopped to join the fun</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq_AJ-NX4rfyQ86TezkA6Ulp-PzAeTxIe0rnX6M5xhyDQ3rDSZ694vbgAilk-0VlIqDQQrYgmV90tkawQJ48ZnVG7HRJbdAxYoc7cfSoN0qq2oIewnb7xgoVm-8Y5o4AUNPqkPPvi_qsa2/s1600/20151219-DSC07514.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq_AJ-NX4rfyQ86TezkA6Ulp-PzAeTxIe0rnX6M5xhyDQ3rDSZ694vbgAilk-0VlIqDQQrYgmV90tkawQJ48ZnVG7HRJbdAxYoc7cfSoN0qq2oIewnb7xgoVm-8Y5o4AUNPqkPPvi_qsa2/s400/20151219-DSC07514.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
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Tom on the awesome project that took a long time to figure our. By the time we had all the beta we were too sauced to send but I'm certain Tom will fire it when he returns. </div>
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The Tungsten City boulders is a rarely visited area outside Bishop I decided to checkout. It had a nice little circuit and you can't beat the approach. This was before my van started giving me trouble</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMjgZ0p0lFR__w12tjEfSojr7YQ9o64SnS-BWNVvjip6xX7z0rRI00maITLR3eHx9Oz6x_wdQFmXAIQ5PkGy2axb1SENbVK4r7NumGQ503iUOHi_8CmEIcrStCN9FtLyE-YxFhFVoubhFd/s1600/20151219-DSC07522.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMjgZ0p0lFR__w12tjEfSojr7YQ9o64SnS-BWNVvjip6xX7z0rRI00maITLR3eHx9Oz6x_wdQFmXAIQ5PkGy2axb1SENbVK4r7NumGQ503iUOHi_8CmEIcrStCN9FtLyE-YxFhFVoubhFd/s400/20151219-DSC07522.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Traveling without the family means dinner can be thrown together last minute. Sometimes I don't want to put in much effort.</div>
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And sometimes I happen upon a sweet Mexican restaurant. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4pxXTYB1Vv5tbGUBzDqBQeXzkJK06WqCqhGfIxg4uwn-tM3od0NK78Qy-qvtgpWxCk6BQ8VhsDOgGLdRlP_aBc8ICTxnENRKQ65JHpguW_RSS3_TggfqNUHeF_VpG3kaG94iPsNiPhmmt/s1600/20151224-DSC07743.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4pxXTYB1Vv5tbGUBzDqBQeXzkJK06WqCqhGfIxg4uwn-tM3od0NK78Qy-qvtgpWxCk6BQ8VhsDOgGLdRlP_aBc8ICTxnENRKQ65JHpguW_RSS3_TggfqNUHeF_VpG3kaG94iPsNiPhmmt/s400/20151224-DSC07743.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Fellow van dwellers enjoying some spiced whine after a day of bouldering</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwPlbCFncAkMbqY2k2_U-DJhrAaXkU9weSuc5EhKoiFI2gLkEkdaKAQgIUfOe-VIaWmgss-hyv1kJDySq6koABywqaeYA_ut91yQoB-J8k6kfYzkgMH0YrDgPbiXN4KUdDxEt0SHIqBt24/s1600/20151225-DSC07745.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwPlbCFncAkMbqY2k2_U-DJhrAaXkU9weSuc5EhKoiFI2gLkEkdaKAQgIUfOe-VIaWmgss-hyv1kJDySq6koABywqaeYA_ut91yQoB-J8k6kfYzkgMH0YrDgPbiXN4KUdDxEt0SHIqBt24/s400/20151225-DSC07745.jpg" width="246" /></a></div>
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The crew trying to stay warm</div>
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The Sierra Nevada mountains catching the first rays of sunlight as the moon descends.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh95e08lynCp6bHcd7u5jSSk8LVLHf3-66x16XI0bGYWqZIPX3NTOBlN0k_FZCB5NCXaZc7uiBLFJRJ_UdaGGXTWlyEQVIwET7ywDycQFT4LfxTWcQHCfMSsd1MPxby-pUgbWUojvzzjQV_/s1600/20151227-DSC07794.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh95e08lynCp6bHcd7u5jSSk8LVLHf3-66x16XI0bGYWqZIPX3NTOBlN0k_FZCB5NCXaZc7uiBLFJRJ_UdaGGXTWlyEQVIwET7ywDycQFT4LfxTWcQHCfMSsd1MPxby-pUgbWUojvzzjQV_/s400/20151227-DSC07794.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Catching the moon.</div>
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<br />walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-85696077466997037022015-12-11T07:27:00.002-08:002015-12-11T07:27:50.504-08:00Finding Worthy Rocks: First Ascents in Dartmoor National Park<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
As my friends are well aware, I was not too psyched about the move to Southwestern England. I generally judge an area by the quality, quantity and potential of the local climbing and it was safe to say that Exeter is a downgrade in every way from my home in Gothenburg. Fortunately I quickly stopped whining about what I left behind and started exploring my new home and realized there is a decent amount of rock to be found at my "local" area of Dartmoor National Park. </div>
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Those that know me are aware that I like the process of searching for boulders almost as much as I like climbing them, and since everything in Dartmoor was new I had plenty to keep me busy. I went to work systematically visiting every area, ticking the local classics and searching for anything that might have been overlooked. Using various online resources, local beta, satellite images and detailed maps I started trekking to every area that had even the remotest chance of having climbable rock, and while most of these missions were met with disappointment I'd occasionally stumble upon something worthy. </div>
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Well, the productive outings have started to add up and not only have I collected quite a few projects but I've also added 15 new problems with some of them being among the best in Dartmoor. So here are a few pictures of some of the new problems and there is certainly more to come. I have come close to exhausting the areas closest to home but there is still plenty on the far side of the moor. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTG9kYTWFHZwz7LSLTrCigaX4zyPQcYPueDnOBnOk-5Dl5XbXpaakSGBjjfuVP70f-Yq4pglJOt756UWxA9gSQU3dL_3g6K2s2HnDfB7x6Aamcju05KAiqQ9pXmZPbqYlA76ENSisE4qgh/s1600/20151003-DSC06659.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTG9kYTWFHZwz7LSLTrCigaX4zyPQcYPueDnOBnOk-5Dl5XbXpaakSGBjjfuVP70f-Yq4pglJOt756UWxA9gSQU3dL_3g6K2s2HnDfB7x6Aamcju05KAiqQ9pXmZPbqYlA76ENSisE4qgh/s400/20151003-DSC06659.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The majority of climbing in Dartmoor is on rocky outcroppings called "tors" like Greater Rocks (foreground) and Hound Tor (background). While all of these tors have been climbed at for years (they are hard to miss) there are some obvious problems that have been overlooked. </div>
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One such overlooked problem is at Easdon Rocks and only two meters from the classic Easdon Arete. It goes from a sit using a "nonhold" under the roof and then navigating the slopey lip/arete to the top. I called this one Overshadowed.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX1Vs4muaJX8t1Y-0NbQCfsw5H1_xWV7lhnnBg4298Bp5YWQdAUslUDwBGXwg1LlrvYMQxpXP-YZ6eKxuAQhhzOaZUr6tj5MFEKx6xV-l2X1fJqdRQq5OydYLfwWTr6uBi94J3ajamZ5U-/s1600/2015-03-15_00026.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX1Vs4muaJX8t1Y-0NbQCfsw5H1_xWV7lhnnBg4298Bp5YWQdAUslUDwBGXwg1LlrvYMQxpXP-YZ6eKxuAQhhzOaZUr6tj5MFEKx6xV-l2X1fJqdRQq5OydYLfwWTr6uBi94J3ajamZ5U-/s400/2015-03-15_00026.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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While the potential up on the open moor is limited there are several wooded areas with clusters of boulders hidden in the trees. I've had the good fortune to meet some kindred spirits that have been exploring the woods for years and they gave me a tour, saving countless hours on my part. Thanks to Tom Rainbow for showing me around and pointing me toward this project, which I called Lazy Colon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfHzAUQyOsZDLOdY25e1rLym8HQ33UA59BfYmc541qTBRfWubUephzuk8kL6IthUbaEzyJXhhbIIOpgW7C_oz0_3cvKW_IWEn6ZVaFq8-Idv2HqV07fkkEn7j99i4ilxmdqTdHJ8K1tdB/s1600/2015-06-04_00077.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgfHzAUQyOsZDLOdY25e1rLym8HQ33UA59BfYmc541qTBRfWubUephzuk8kL6IthUbaEzyJXhhbIIOpgW7C_oz0_3cvKW_IWEn6ZVaFq8-Idv2HqV07fkkEn7j99i4ilxmdqTdHJ8K1tdB/s400/2015-06-04_00077.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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A little arete I found hiding in the woods and brushed up. I do try to seek out the best stuff but not every fa I do is going to be an area classic. Sometimes you got to find the "best of whats left" and I can say being in England is teaching me to make do with what I have.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJBzvwlx_lAbLmNEXPeGdbtGlVLkUCesFbaM2mJpJXcDKoQl_pWw3sFrJ9HQJW0KIa_Xpjfth5SDHpYVHBj2S11Cmo9Kt3VEeJpc_GxjfdNJbM_iJDByQo7WmT2sLYIcF_-Ge8McCY0f2l/s1600/2015-05-09_00019.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJBzvwlx_lAbLmNEXPeGdbtGlVLkUCesFbaM2mJpJXcDKoQl_pWw3sFrJ9HQJW0KIa_Xpjfth5SDHpYVHBj2S11Cmo9Kt3VEeJpc_GxjfdNJbM_iJDByQo7WmT2sLYIcF_-Ge8McCY0f2l/s400/2015-05-09_00019.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Lustleigh Cleave is a large wooded area that has the most potential of the Dartmoor areas and where roughly half my fa's are, including this gem. Over the Mountain is one of the most enjoyable and surprising new problems as it started as a nice option for a day out with my sun and turned into a minor obsession. It took me two days to just figure out the beta and I hauled my son back roughly 8 times before putting it together. The climbing is pretty unique for Dartmoor and packs a lot of climbing into a small space.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKrKDx7euygL4qjKiIaMMonXeUOsHbDBfWS61EQpWPdl6XR23FXu1qfZL1gL_-TT-b0r6Jn_PPNfkuC-qmLoK6SrgE6sMEZyaA2ADOruBfJcwdqlOisesVk72rYzpTFg-GWOKyv0uNdVb5/s1600/20150901-DSC06446.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjKrKDx7euygL4qjKiIaMMonXeUOsHbDBfWS61EQpWPdl6XR23FXu1qfZL1gL_-TT-b0r6Jn_PPNfkuC-qmLoK6SrgE6sMEZyaA2ADOruBfJcwdqlOisesVk72rYzpTFg-GWOKyv0uNdVb5/s400/20150901-DSC06446.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here's a shot of the crux underbelly of Over the Mountain</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOsBEMKfHL9aeYCbKchQEg1455JwvZCTi5SakPf1tTDlXqvUz2AU8wZEtyiiZ4_Wnms_VBug0FzlT3En4gCdSxF4mGieq2gaHpXZHYfhospuHfEe4MeZljfGng3KsM0Kjg7aA8N5nh5pMV/s1600/2015-05-25_00051.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOsBEMKfHL9aeYCbKchQEg1455JwvZCTi5SakPf1tTDlXqvUz2AU8wZEtyiiZ4_Wnms_VBug0FzlT3En4gCdSxF4mGieq2gaHpXZHYfhospuHfEe4MeZljfGng3KsM0Kjg7aA8N5nh5pMV/s320/2015-05-25_00051.jpg" width="212" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBE3xVDaN-BRbH_P7R5i1crmI2tV_xm0Hhgz5nbQ2q48ztwk19F1dHhU7SWGgUiB_5OtIzeu_xi5D3FQ-UyKmxde2uExNIdBBRNdoyBNU4BZxuoE7GUwqblXWUrZWCTdz3nf_0ft_eKTow/s1600/2015-05-25_00054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBE3xVDaN-BRbH_P7R5i1crmI2tV_xm0Hhgz5nbQ2q48ztwk19F1dHhU7SWGgUiB_5OtIzeu_xi5D3FQ-UyKmxde2uExNIdBBRNdoyBNU4BZxuoE7GUwqblXWUrZWCTdz3nf_0ft_eKTow/s320/2015-05-25_00054.jpg" width="213" /></a></div>
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Here's another new problem in Lustleigh. I brushed this one up while supporting a friend on an adjacent problem and Mikey and I sent it one after the other. Another problem worth doing if in the area. Hey Mikey, what did you call this one?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmN9EZuuvNTwBYno-fKti4wG8roHX3_HadQIjXszA3ypG0EXg-FQhnOXqDltedfzp4Gh0uRPS3P9U3pbXX4XvOERWfK6nvEv_Jzeme4loR0bURKXZq4H5V73mkHX6FqXqftfXVcqovmWR7/s1600/20151011-DSC06689.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmN9EZuuvNTwBYno-fKti4wG8roHX3_HadQIjXszA3ypG0EXg-FQhnOXqDltedfzp4Gh0uRPS3P9U3pbXX4XvOERWfK6nvEv_Jzeme4loR0bURKXZq4H5V73mkHX6FqXqftfXVcqovmWR7/s400/20151011-DSC06689.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
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Perhaps the best problem I've put up in Dartmoor is also in Lustleigh and climbs the face of "the project boulder". Yankee Doodle Dandy is essentially just three moves with the last one being a big dyno. I did do this one by myself but it's not recommended as pads and spotters will prove helpful.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuGXcbAipivCUNMZ2b74GSEWWrxT_8o0AsGekKoJTGg_6na8Ab4WC4_K02yNhQDyMq-5-cRLZsyEdNKxzQ5Niehjz9x-2GVDHotPBL7BQB_Fxvw-sT5tgQk-9SQXGoys9Tmq_SmpRgfGcK/s1600/2015-06-09_00004.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuGXcbAipivCUNMZ2b74GSEWWrxT_8o0AsGekKoJTGg_6na8Ab4WC4_K02yNhQDyMq-5-cRLZsyEdNKxzQ5Niehjz9x-2GVDHotPBL7BQB_Fxvw-sT5tgQk-9SQXGoys9Tmq_SmpRgfGcK/s400/2015-06-09_00004.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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It's always nice to visit areas you've marked on your map and find someone has done most of the work of cleaning the boulders. I later found out who had developed this little area and informed that I was the first to do this little dandy. I called it The Gift and want to thank Dave Henderson for cleaning it up.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAEACDQSDcxfE8SF0U89rU5sFkAC8FFn6GewGt3MlJ6SwE2FUz6vwYaR_AYzF5YjNutg60APYWWIk9wwPJv_bdXhr1pKy1dl8izJ3SCtaZMnx7DhbHGGA8WzGJHibhAjawHfRsHJCsRgGH/s1600/20150917-DSC06482.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="235" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAEACDQSDcxfE8SF0U89rU5sFkAC8FFn6GewGt3MlJ6SwE2FUz6vwYaR_AYzF5YjNutg60APYWWIk9wwPJv_bdXhr1pKy1dl8izJ3SCtaZMnx7DhbHGGA8WzGJHibhAjawHfRsHJCsRgGH/s400/20150917-DSC06482.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Another sweet problem Dave had cleaned up was this slopey traverse he called Snaresbrook Snake-charmer . He started from a jug in the middle and I added an extension that sit-starts all the way left.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hZNuv2NrMPdtXl8iZvpPSMClDglgdV90KzM7amdOO7Duj98H2aqL2bXhDSJ653ojpySOSgzoDyneyG1SFiA2NjEHMKgKVvX_qQC5gZsTMKGm_aH75A3FbBJ0XmRt5UejY_FJE7kMRHrx/s1600/20151001-DSC06631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2hZNuv2NrMPdtXl8iZvpPSMClDglgdV90KzM7amdOO7Duj98H2aqL2bXhDSJ653ojpySOSgzoDyneyG1SFiA2NjEHMKgKVvX_qQC5gZsTMKGm_aH75A3FbBJ0XmRt5UejY_FJE7kMRHrx/s400/20151001-DSC06631.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This one is actually still a project (one of many) but I've figured out all the moves and at some point I'll get back to it.........</div>
walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-29440572401227271532015-12-04T23:05:00.002-08:002015-12-04T23:07:45.887-08:00Wrist Rocket (aka Triple Threat Arete): Little Cottonwoods Best Problem? <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Wrist Rocket is an amazing climb in Little Cottonwood that is a contender for best in the canyon. I was fortunate enough to stumble upon a crew there as it does require a few pads and/or a solid spot. Also a big thanks to my buddy Kyle for prepping the top and spraying me down with beta. </div>
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It's also worth noting that the name of the problem can cause some confusion as it also goes by the name Triple Threat Arete. I'm not actually sure which name is "correct" but it is a great problem regardless.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NxjuFIUeJg-FTfdho7a0h-qbIx7utWFiiv-nVXP0TxrwMGF-rvtsY6SPO6WA1bnSAXVYt1qKvcEraLWKd8ZBRvIzuUtLWTMxJw4Ktff_n1Mj_8sBHoreAYcNdfxdX7bigEPaWVLfQMbh/s1600/20151101-DSC06828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NxjuFIUeJg-FTfdho7a0h-qbIx7utWFiiv-nVXP0TxrwMGF-rvtsY6SPO6WA1bnSAXVYt1qKvcEraLWKd8ZBRvIzuUtLWTMxJw4Ktff_n1Mj_8sBHoreAYcNdfxdX7bigEPaWVLfQMbh/s1600/20151101-DSC06828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NxjuFIUeJg-FTfdho7a0h-qbIx7utWFiiv-nVXP0TxrwMGF-rvtsY6SPO6WA1bnSAXVYt1qKvcEraLWKd8ZBRvIzuUtLWTMxJw4Ktff_n1Mj_8sBHoreAYcNdfxdX7bigEPaWVLfQMbh/s1600/20151101-DSC06828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NxjuFIUeJg-FTfdho7a0h-qbIx7utWFiiv-nVXP0TxrwMGF-rvtsY6SPO6WA1bnSAXVYt1qKvcEraLWKd8ZBRvIzuUtLWTMxJw4Ktff_n1Mj_8sBHoreAYcNdfxdX7bigEPaWVLfQMbh/s1600/20151101-DSC06828.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj1NxjuFIUeJg-FTfdho7a0h-qbIx7utWFiiv-nVXP0TxrwMGF-rvtsY6SPO6WA1bnSAXVYt1qKvcEraLWKd8ZBRvIzuUtLWTMxJw4Ktff_n1Mj_8sBHoreAYcNdfxdX7bigEPaWVLfQMbh/s400/20151101-DSC06828.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
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Ben pulling on to the start of Wrist Rocket</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gtn2e8emRmE-BS-WU4XYzmGMg8qb-3Sexw8zHNyuHfdG-zzEUIre5kMojcp4J3-bHyXXM5_QxsMSFrb6-Af_WlxRGMwZvklf5qTXTALWd80p3v__oWi6bJZfj8GppPl2u3Pfsx6yGW9t/s1600/20151101-DSC06811.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-gtn2e8emRmE-BS-WU4XYzmGMg8qb-3Sexw8zHNyuHfdG-zzEUIre5kMojcp4J3-bHyXXM5_QxsMSFrb6-Af_WlxRGMwZvklf5qTXTALWd80p3v__oWi6bJZfj8GppPl2u3Pfsx6yGW9t/s320/20151101-DSC06811.jpg" width="214" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimUE0NC0ppNk2r2eC9nxUqTWmSjd52VBvwGQtxwCoTbNqnDOp5zRQeXiNQKu00PQp9TP2JHUjfRTbeqJrCjpkgIQJ6LTAZ46_-4JTVoKPvQ39l6Y3zQEVJ692ukAES1xtzsjLNINe01IDl/s1600/20151101-DSC06812.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEimUE0NC0ppNk2r2eC9nxUqTWmSjd52VBvwGQtxwCoTbNqnDOp5zRQeXiNQKu00PQp9TP2JHUjfRTbeqJrCjpkgIQJ6LTAZ46_-4JTVoKPvQ39l6Y3zQEVJ692ukAES1xtzsjLNINe01IDl/s320/20151101-DSC06812.jpg" width="205" /></a></div>
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The start of the problem is straight forward fat-boy climbing with big moves to big holds and lots of foot cutting.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAzbLTEIWLVlFPY4lH9Gyg7i-XdvI-qdjjItvewtMDmg6N9ZLXJ_SKCttAgm4nLgn7SFe9ALQt1MJEvG63QGBfEG60_EaxNnlQ-hos1_AfbrguYsr4MbdWEvUy98Zf9vi_6YgDUWiZ07PP/s1600/20151101-DSC06830.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAzbLTEIWLVlFPY4lH9Gyg7i-XdvI-qdjjItvewtMDmg6N9ZLXJ_SKCttAgm4nLgn7SFe9ALQt1MJEvG63QGBfEG60_EaxNnlQ-hos1_AfbrguYsr4MbdWEvUy98Zf9vi_6YgDUWiZ07PP/s400/20151101-DSC06830.jpg" width="256" /></a></div>
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Ben eyeing the last dyno before entering the crux lip encounter</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9sfp2AkghHpgWnOLdQDPNrLGJm8CovWomJ_2qanBlbNCS4sZOtwnuG4FRnK5qIlJ9va6a4cHnfoh84AxRFf4wG3dip28SNoSd0euSX1OW6vfk_6-6-51vwnAp4jkAqYLp-MbA0BOg-_wh/s1600/20151101-DSC06825.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9sfp2AkghHpgWnOLdQDPNrLGJm8CovWomJ_2qanBlbNCS4sZOtwnuG4FRnK5qIlJ9va6a4cHnfoh84AxRFf4wG3dip28SNoSd0euSX1OW6vfk_6-6-51vwnAp4jkAqYLp-MbA0BOg-_wh/s320/20151101-DSC06825.jpg" width="204" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIhdGp_2_ZmzUgjGTzNo4rMSL1UGYgrk_GcC94H96dtAP_Zy7N4MOfIdXodzQkbCw0yW6I1pNb4KovpbL7kWQpoyb12qo6JSJu4kP3i6uZx1_mPsfSjmYayvk98ycSOvzxV7D0i_5LSDzi/s1600/20151101-DSC06833.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIhdGp_2_ZmzUgjGTzNo4rMSL1UGYgrk_GcC94H96dtAP_Zy7N4MOfIdXodzQkbCw0yW6I1pNb4KovpbL7kWQpoyb12qo6JSJu4kP3i6uZx1_mPsfSjmYayvk98ycSOvzxV7D0i_5LSDzi/s320/20151101-DSC06833.jpg" width="204" /></a></div>
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Here Kyle and Ben attempt one method to do the crux that uses a small crimp to the right and standing up. I prefer the alternative of matching the arete and doing a balancey mantel. When your foot is on the lip the hard climbing is done but you still need to keep it together for 15 feet of slab climbing.</div>
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<br />walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-66572386970830601502015-11-30T06:47:00.000-08:002015-11-30T06:47:20.230-08:00Loving the Granite of Little Cottonwood Canyon<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've arrived back in England so now I've got some time to do some retro-posts from my time in the States. I'll start out with some pictures from Utah's beloved Little Cottonwood Canyon. Hope you enjoy.......</div>
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Little Cottonwood Canyon seems to be one of those areas you either love or hate (for the record I lean heavily towards loving it). This boulder strewn canyon is located just 20 minutes from downtown Salt Lake City and is a huge selling point for climbers that move to the city. Regardless of whether or not you think LCC is destination worthy, there is no denying that is would be a phenomenal place to have as your local haunt. </div>
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Little Cottonwood of course refers to the entire canyon but the bouldering is actually quite varied depending on which of the many sectors you visit. The entrance to the canyon provides climbing at lower elevation for the colder/snowy months and the alpine areas high up provide a respite from the sweltering summer months. You can even optimize temps by choosing either the sunny or shady side of the canyon and if you really want to get nerdy you can select you area by the rock itself as the granite can vary between areas. </div>
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The climbing itself tends to cater to more technical climbers and it helps to be good at mantling as crux lip encounters are common and many a strong gym-rat have left the area with their egos slightly bruised (this also might explain why some folks don't like the area). That said, the bouldering is pretty extensive so I'm sure you can find something to fit you style....... </div>
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Here are some photos</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN1iDX_9jLsbMP_-NalEeHfZlg_yhq4bspumTaDlKeyokm_3LcCGOoJ8nEDCVVWmnCDdIqnUt-qKRTDaMscGmF2e3kaC1FquFZlcBuDW0_pFwK5hs9yYiCIAzqnz3OH1DHEjGpTI_qoKMi/s1600/20151030-DSC06766.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiN1iDX_9jLsbMP_-NalEeHfZlg_yhq4bspumTaDlKeyokm_3LcCGOoJ8nEDCVVWmnCDdIqnUt-qKRTDaMscGmF2e3kaC1FquFZlcBuDW0_pFwK5hs9yYiCIAzqnz3OH1DHEjGpTI_qoKMi/s400/20151030-DSC06766.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Located at the Secret Garden sector, Copperhead is a crimpy test-piece on one of Little Cottonwood's best boulders. It essentially boils down to bearing down on the sharp crimp Ann is reaching for in the picture. I actually never thought I'd do this problem but having done all the other straight-ups I figured I'd give it a shot and miraculously found myself on the top. Sometimes I surprise myself. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFxToiNPcvw9r5ZWGCXiLPavji9aa-EMEZhXIkSNdF__mi92I9CqwyyeP9s-Vibj2SCRR9OQwmhK5SDs2L20A96tNgKlt5N-w3AKx9hPwY1CR8d9vUTPfeEGX4JpekZOgN5ANBncCW-2ZY/s1600/20151105-DSC06903.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFxToiNPcvw9r5ZWGCXiLPavji9aa-EMEZhXIkSNdF__mi92I9CqwyyeP9s-Vibj2SCRR9OQwmhK5SDs2L20A96tNgKlt5N-w3AKx9hPwY1CR8d9vUTPfeEGX4JpekZOgN5ANBncCW-2ZY/s400/20151105-DSC06903.jpg" width="257" /></a></div>
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Elizabeth stares down the crux of Lance's Dihedral. This problem is on the same boulder as Copperhead and is not to be missed if visiting the area.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOShXDlonMKg5Bzp3RuCosta93LS9VXk105GvrPOIGl8xFSB94tYOAAnAWx352aYyUmI-ZRGQCJaz04irQCaSNnITrVEYUoeTmJhcuFtqjVx95bXJLnliVHvQa2VU0I-wc3w_gKPaUY31/s1600/20151030-DSC06772.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhlOShXDlonMKg5Bzp3RuCosta93LS9VXk105GvrPOIGl8xFSB94tYOAAnAWx352aYyUmI-ZRGQCJaz04irQCaSNnITrVEYUoeTmJhcuFtqjVx95bXJLnliVHvQa2VU0I-wc3w_gKPaUY31/s400/20151030-DSC06772.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Dain give St Nicholas a raspberry. Also at the Secret Garden this problem comes highly recommended and is one of the first problems I'll go back to when visiting the area. Unfortunately I don't have a photo that shows the problem better so you'll have to settle for Dain looking swoll. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0B8GGx3L24eM7MhtdJ2UkAOnLK7yRXPAbO-bHlIe2woy2Ie4jjJjtGAGBFVeX3UB4lKNsB02iHSzpB-tLs93IKfomF9brRvwzdo6vq1G5iEujTUjsNGJbdb9c8WL8I498I_JpdWToOisV/s1600/20151031-DSC06783.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0B8GGx3L24eM7MhtdJ2UkAOnLK7yRXPAbO-bHlIe2woy2Ie4jjJjtGAGBFVeX3UB4lKNsB02iHSzpB-tLs93IKfomF9brRvwzdo6vq1G5iEujTUjsNGJbdb9c8WL8I498I_JpdWToOisV/s400/20151031-DSC06783.jpg" width="255" /></a></div>
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The Round Room is a hidden gem that is worth seeking out. This gentle scoop requires some technique to make the use of non-holds and is fun for the whole family......unless you are short, in which case you'll find yourself reduced to tears.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqMYvHNcWI8FRa-jTojvJCUAPnyFSBa2X4QzyM40aMjGMr0O6TKg0m7V4qctRLhA6TSD9aJbCo0Pnl_AGU8Y1cvWeKxZp6rfYy4vOeNcU_e0DcvWrVKOCGg8bPgnKDB-RMs_fekWkEGVeB/s1600/20151031-DSC06786.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="236" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqMYvHNcWI8FRa-jTojvJCUAPnyFSBa2X4QzyM40aMjGMr0O6TKg0m7V4qctRLhA6TSD9aJbCo0Pnl_AGU8Y1cvWeKxZp6rfYy4vOeNcU_e0DcvWrVKOCGg8bPgnKDB-RMs_fekWkEGVeB/s400/20151031-DSC06786.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Another angle of Kyle on The Round Room just reaching for the crux move.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXjbpGBasGH3pYM_MGcLh2NONPJr2V8aQj8hAUt6NYl1YpQ8oWLiA7vbaoLSlU2vaDaJtowMFPQ69wmPdC6h01JIIFi1Rn9T43G5BCc_1s6THlK8gAYvb-iC-PwNKOqRPkprZFJdNlIaxM/s1600/20151105-DSC06894.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="247" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXjbpGBasGH3pYM_MGcLh2NONPJr2V8aQj8hAUt6NYl1YpQ8oWLiA7vbaoLSlU2vaDaJtowMFPQ69wmPdC6h01JIIFi1Rn9T43G5BCc_1s6THlK8gAYvb-iC-PwNKOqRPkprZFJdNlIaxM/s400/20151105-DSC06894.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Bronson Arete at the Riverside area is one of my favorites. In this shot Noki sets up for the big move out right, which he was just able to span. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOjP_NWqadTDxhdLWesmw01t5YeprDnlsr2tFb8j5Bq7NlKxMh55OlmBoiDDJ_s1FbWxOCqeyTcZM6kz1TYbTf8JeGqtnvzR2W35dE6hZe0xcHVd3EGFDhP-DggD0_HbOkpivGEy-gthu/s1600/20151101-DSC06858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjOOjP_NWqadTDxhdLWesmw01t5YeprDnlsr2tFb8j5Bq7NlKxMh55OlmBoiDDJ_s1FbWxOCqeyTcZM6kz1TYbTf8JeGqtnvzR2W35dE6hZe0xcHVd3EGFDhP-DggD0_HbOkpivGEy-gthu/s400/20151101-DSC06858.jpg" width="250" /></a></div>
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Austin on Bronson Arete</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQs8tlzT8TjY4gmN-3YEnng-hiXiJ0Rd7-b0rN3Q5FFafLh7mEaSuGLLFdRqX-iirrYLjWzOby_ASs48LPOESCaA6F9bieDNiuVnmPcCdnf7ctZPkPi7FbaI-BN2u9CG4RtC40S6E0w5b/s1600/20151103-DSC06886.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikQs8tlzT8TjY4gmN-3YEnng-hiXiJ0Rd7-b0rN3Q5FFafLh7mEaSuGLLFdRqX-iirrYLjWzOby_ASs48LPOESCaA6F9bieDNiuVnmPcCdnf7ctZPkPi7FbaI-BN2u9CG4RtC40S6E0w5b/s400/20151103-DSC06886.jpg" width="252" /></a></div>
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Also at the Riverside area is Alzheimers. There are two solutions to the crux final move and Carrie opts for the heel-hook right hand up method instead of the deadpoint/dyno with the left hand. Both options are hard and it's just a matter of what fits you better.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbyFb9Orx66VBXH1xuLGcZRK-q0MkfAAbLufVIzferNcnmteDj1QonqlEHvHXF4Ptd87x1xLCB4vXoyghEexFYMegX2fbXt4FODGTXElwBNGNvAitxklrfblABtDqD3VuH-2BmqtlYl3PO/s1600/20151107-DSC06952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbyFb9Orx66VBXH1xuLGcZRK-q0MkfAAbLufVIzferNcnmteDj1QonqlEHvHXF4Ptd87x1xLCB4vXoyghEexFYMegX2fbXt4FODGTXElwBNGNvAitxklrfblABtDqD3VuH-2BmqtlYl3PO/s400/20151107-DSC06952.jpg" width="248" /></a></div>
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One of my favorite problems from this trip was the tricky Gerbils. While it might not look like much this problem packs a considerable amount of climbing into its two moves and should be a rite of passage for folks hoping to master the subtleties of Little Cottonwood. Tommy trying to find balance for the reach to the lip.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHXxcVUMgxuK3LWn2WyC8mfpcAkE0QA0eb5LxPIlqWhUTjYWHz9aTuFJz6Js6bXPu4qrR4zMuC7UYw6GasZYsUK09VpwgxcoZsaZ7HsFYlKKJPEj9Daj78XOyhNHbQyg1Ujb5_UY9TH7Tn/s1600/20151107-DSC06954.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHXxcVUMgxuK3LWn2WyC8mfpcAkE0QA0eb5LxPIlqWhUTjYWHz9aTuFJz6Js6bXPu4qrR4zMuC7UYw6GasZYsUK09VpwgxcoZsaZ7HsFYlKKJPEj9Daj78XOyhNHbQyg1Ujb5_UY9TH7Tn/s400/20151107-DSC06954.jpg" width="248" /></a></div>
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Just to the right of Gerbils is Duct Tape. It is also a two move problem but of a very different style from Gerbils. You do get to use this amazing sloper and hope it provides enough purchase to do the dyno crux.</div>
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<br />walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-90250942398375868802015-11-06T06:56:00.002-08:002015-11-06T06:56:32.692-08:00Back in 'Merica and a Moab Drive ByMan it still feels great to be back in the USA. We've been here for almost 2 weeks and I've got that hankering to move back. Maybe some day......<br />
The kids and I flew to NM and moved into the Motherload (our beloved van) to make the initial journey to Salt Lake City. I've missed life on the road and while adding a couple kids to the mix certainly complicates things there is still nothing quite like the joy of van living and I'm glad I get to share it with my family. Of course I'm not sure how much the kids appreciate the long drives as they can turn even the best behaved kids into grumpy little monsters. Fortunately since arriving in SLC we've spent minimal time in the rig and the long drive up included occasional stops so the kids could stretch their legs and dad could climb some boulders.<br />
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Here are a few pictures from the start of the trip<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSPtxw7kUOvMWO8b8HMTuN_cuzEEMBQg0nNyONjpXBeSywNRtXW_YY70voVt0iB3KY9C1zVRudBqWINsFAxC35kRqPlnn65QVMQuhfNhJgqzQZciJikTdIgpvACo42Vl7ElYqg3xTaNkRp/s1600/20151025-DSC06729.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiSPtxw7kUOvMWO8b8HMTuN_cuzEEMBQg0nNyONjpXBeSywNRtXW_YY70voVt0iB3KY9C1zVRudBqWINsFAxC35kRqPlnn65QVMQuhfNhJgqzQZciJikTdIgpvACo42Vl7ElYqg3xTaNkRp/s400/20151025-DSC06729.jpg" width="258" /></a></div>
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My dad knows how to make the grand kids happy. Fortunately this is a rarity but damn are donuts delicious. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdxpkY8aMiibmsbSfx51nkIpTCij_0ImNzozoHTslvEXvWOvnVa9CuHT3I6ZbN0ASWpAAhSPv3asWQY-sIeXu7ESRQUcp76K_0yI_cE3NITlWtX1SDA1y1ne22QMQo0CctPnUt3UI8yH0T/s1600/20151028-DSC06731.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdxpkY8aMiibmsbSfx51nkIpTCij_0ImNzozoHTslvEXvWOvnVa9CuHT3I6ZbN0ASWpAAhSPv3asWQY-sIeXu7ESRQUcp76K_0yI_cE3NITlWtX1SDA1y1ne22QMQo0CctPnUt3UI8yH0T/s400/20151028-DSC06731.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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You got to love the Southwest. Looking Glass Rock just a bit south of Moab. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_6WJ-KFcJj4iArHUGT4Ztd7e1eBL3BM-oROER4C-g_Ap-cNIg_tAJBlioAUlhLG1fQkP5OfBKOd5dZ-t5hIquLwwzG8ZFkVpUvdBeMl1aQAuEsuuJkjtBcVuFMuflwgFnLPUZDIHhSfK9/s1600/20151028-DSC06736.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_6WJ-KFcJj4iArHUGT4Ztd7e1eBL3BM-oROER4C-g_Ap-cNIg_tAJBlioAUlhLG1fQkP5OfBKOd5dZ-t5hIquLwwzG8ZFkVpUvdBeMl1aQAuEsuuJkjtBcVuFMuflwgFnLPUZDIHhSfK9/s400/20151028-DSC06736.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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One of the quick stops on the trip North was in Moab. I opted to check out an area I'd never seen that was a short walk and a nice place for the kids. Zen Garden (aka Ninja Training Cave) is a pretty cool spot with a trickling waterfall feeding a little pond next to this amphitheater. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqxPru6sAy1TdfDim4R1KDp4GoDiyfsg6lsbox467apRD6ELunaqRuiFlVukTDVdR-p9E492X7B4_IreYxPILD943VSbDfxnpc3Oqz8ArmJFY1eFsh6I-pFBT6viIWXNArPf4ekYE82slt/s1600/20151028-DSC06734.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="246" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqxPru6sAy1TdfDim4R1KDp4GoDiyfsg6lsbox467apRD6ELunaqRuiFlVukTDVdR-p9E492X7B4_IreYxPILD943VSbDfxnpc3Oqz8ArmJFY1eFsh6I-pFBT6viIWXNArPf4ekYE82slt/s400/20151028-DSC06734.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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My mom, who came along for the ride, helps Nalani wash her hands in the waterfall.</div>
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I believe this climb is called Shaolin Donkeypunch and is one of the two main lines in the cave. I imagine there are tons of variations and links to be done if one is so inclined. It's also worth noting that the climbs do topout but most folks seem to opt for dropping from the highest jugs as I did. I'd love to go back with a spotter as the high dirty top just wasn't worth it this time around.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs7aCYoHX2EPa7sdRwoTwFilkiSqrlQKhr8_wV_qMhMQanBQm7n_A7316uKSVC0WihnAW1evnflXaoSYUDbCitWCtBEIqspEeb8N0bwEl5dsqnc_X1hyphenhyphen5j1Cg_j7QDkfTJAEeZGYHUWKXp/s1600/20151028-DSC06741.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjs7aCYoHX2EPa7sdRwoTwFilkiSqrlQKhr8_wV_qMhMQanBQm7n_A7316uKSVC0WihnAW1evnflXaoSYUDbCitWCtBEIqspEeb8N0bwEl5dsqnc_X1hyphenhyphen5j1Cg_j7QDkfTJAEeZGYHUWKXp/s400/20151028-DSC06741.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The crew at the Ninja Training Cave</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxgCTt9s42nQ9VyIW9q-0toTUROd9NZ2hLVbeDZ_AHRdgudaCouvO-GsqdoZcBePQpsEowVNb2kb7xAYZUevhz9SrTJmBpvOVfGTEufCHawOhfOtMqHraqIWqZhkJzNGbGvTs5X73xXBI9/s1600/20151028-DSC06742.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxgCTt9s42nQ9VyIW9q-0toTUROd9NZ2hLVbeDZ_AHRdgudaCouvO-GsqdoZcBePQpsEowVNb2kb7xAYZUevhz9SrTJmBpvOVfGTEufCHawOhfOtMqHraqIWqZhkJzNGbGvTs5X73xXBI9/s400/20151028-DSC06742.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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I also stopped briefly in Price Canyon for a little sandstone. I'd been to this small area about 11 years ago and it works great for a quick hit. The Price is Right boulder provides several sweet lines but some of the holds can be a little tweeky. This problem is either called Off the Couch or is some variation of Showcase Showdown. Regardless of name, it is a nice problem.</div>
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<br />walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-14322863069509274042015-10-21T02:52:00.001-07:002015-10-21T02:52:39.966-07:00Bouldering in Cornwall <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
When planning a trip to Cornwall it was difficult figuring out where to climb. Like Devon, Cornwall's climbing areas tend to be small and spread out and this is less than ideal for our little family. While the bouldering in Cornwall seems to cater most to a motivated climber hoping to cherry-pick there seem to be a few "larger" areas you could spend a day with a family.</div>
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I of course had consulted some friends and on-line sources before the trip and one boulder in particular stuck out, The Dreamboat Boulder. While not to be miss the Dreamboat Boulder has some complications as it is all by itself with a not so family friendly approach, and to top it all off you need to time your visit with the tides and it can still be wet. I had seen some pictures of this boulder and despite the difficulties I stubbornly drug my family down a treacherous slope in hopes of doing one of the best problems in Cornwall.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0AeeSp-amXDaxF0JBsXNyH9FpF27Fa7arR0rd5fFxW4kS_pvhV9SSi0vseWlVvR6XhNcWk58lQTCA82cDt6CljCDtE-w8zXlndaiGiZqGJgdMvYoSNdPWlHuE0XGGLRruEXXcHDTjBz2/s1600/20150919-DSC06517.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV0AeeSp-amXDaxF0JBsXNyH9FpF27Fa7arR0rd5fFxW4kS_pvhV9SSi0vseWlVvR6XhNcWk58lQTCA82cDt6CljCDtE-w8zXlndaiGiZqGJgdMvYoSNdPWlHuE0XGGLRruEXXcHDTjBz2/s400/20150919-DSC06517.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Unfortunately due to the boulder being in the shade and a lack of wind the Dreamboat boulder was rather damp. While I managed to get the holds "dryish" and do a couple other problems, the main line in the middle proved elusive. In this picture I'm gearing up for the crux move of Wonderland, which I'd love to go back too.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtkGG7ohWjw4n3P2fOQNBU7RBRiztFtlZJTahppD97MYZqfzhkIfzYZ34UNB6PiXdMe96kRL9Mk95PANzAQConhoQ5BqTmH67HK3qWdeB4HtWs71Ypiy2tXjJ2SUWJ9QVl3F7pWFM98wnm/s1600/20150919-DSC06518.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtkGG7ohWjw4n3P2fOQNBU7RBRiztFtlZJTahppD97MYZqfzhkIfzYZ34UNB6PiXdMe96kRL9Mk95PANzAQConhoQ5BqTmH67HK3qWdeB4HtWs71Ypiy2tXjJ2SUWJ9QVl3F7pWFM98wnm/s400/20150919-DSC06518.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here is another angle on Wonderland. That left crimp is a bit sharp but that still doesn't take away from the quality of this problem. It you're going to do some bouldering in Cornwall this boulder is highly recommended, just not ideal for the family.</div>
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While there are plenty of areas in Cornwall that aren't on the coast we only checked out those by the water. That means timing is everything as twice a day the boulders are soaked by waves and all signs of climbing are washed away. The bad news is that these areas are notoriously hard to get good conditions and some of the more tucked away problems are almost never dry. On the flip side, without the tidal bombardment most of the rock would be total choss. The coastal areas also tend to provide cool features and the skin friendly nature of the climbing is a welcome respite from the sharp granite of the interior. With this in mind we decided to check out what I've been told is Cornwall's best tidal area, Godrevy.</div>
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Regardless of climbing, Godrevy is a sweet spot. There is a nice long beach and apparently a sweet break as dozens of surfers crowded the water and lounged in a cafe by the parking. The approach to the climbing is short and easy and a maze-like formations of the rock provided a perfect place to run around with kids. </div>
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Lina climbing a problem in one of the the corridors of the "maze". Once again there is no chalk to guide you as it is washed away twice a day and keeping your eye on the tide is important as you head down the beach. I've heard plenty of stories of climbers getting cut-out by the tide with outcomes included waiting for hours, a terrifying choss scramble, or a return the vehicle soaking wet.</div>
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Another problem in the "maze".</div>
<span style="text-align: left;">To be honest I was unimpressed with Godrevy and it has nothing to do with the lack of chalk and most things being damp when we were there. Don't get me wrong it was a sweet place worth checking out in it's own right but the climbing is very underwhelming. While the rock may be fun to climb on there are very few natural lines as you tend to just pick a spot on a wall and climb up. It also didn't help that many of the "classics" were drop-offs. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhkwF0neGi7w0MheqafNvoqsBGUieYmafUVU3Q1IByEXdutLjaw6L0Va29MSB_5qif9SO9CwGeWTz83j5KFilU3UkwKB6b2-nfCMm7976aO2E7jbnX29IwWmR2MXLpkLeY5syUvTaTfXc1/s1600/20150920-DSC06551.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhkwF0neGi7w0MheqafNvoqsBGUieYmafUVU3Q1IByEXdutLjaw6L0Va29MSB_5qif9SO9CwGeWTz83j5KFilU3UkwKB6b2-nfCMm7976aO2E7jbnX29IwWmR2MXLpkLeY5syUvTaTfXc1/s400/20150920-DSC06551.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Providence was one of the better lines at Godrevy but proved to hard for me despite a great spot from my son. </div>
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A shot of the coast as the tide comes in. Lots of rock and so few king-lines.</div>
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I did try one problem in Cornwall that wasn't effected by tides. The Weapon is a single problem located off the coastal path that is easy to fit into the schedule as you don't need to run from the waves. Cool compression moves lead to a committing top-out.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodv8_9hYFSkyzHhWtZHJbCfGShUbYBwkvgYP9vt6p1WY-8vQqR0c3OzlfIwj_kmkiXigNVJ23wrVMj2mq_oMJnDrDCZjpKK76duv4mr-qV0k7rO3XtEQPfJ788wkLkjo9jcZcQAk3gX-R/s1600/20150920-DSC06544.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="202" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjodv8_9hYFSkyzHhWtZHJbCfGShUbYBwkvgYP9vt6p1WY-8vQqR0c3OzlfIwj_kmkiXigNVJ23wrVMj2mq_oMJnDrDCZjpKK76duv4mr-qV0k7rO3XtEQPfJ788wkLkjo9jcZcQAk3gX-R/s400/20150920-DSC06544.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The Weapon. In the end I was too scared to commit of the final move but if I ever make it back to Cornwall this one will get another visit.</div>
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<br />walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-12688240173284672072015-10-15T04:34:00.000-07:002015-10-15T04:34:37.305-07:00Some photos from Cornwall<div class="Question mandatory" id="8469" save_field="" style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 14px; line-height: 24px; margin: 0px 0px 1em; padding: 0px; position: relative;" type="2">
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<span style="background-color: black;">Apologies for the lack of action on the blog. My computer decided to tank on me and everything else seems to be keeping me busy. Such is life.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;">Anyway, just in case anyone still follows this blog and to get things up and rolling again I'll post some pictures from a recent trip we took down to Cornwall. Hope you enjoy.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnbXkmekd8OHibbDVdDFcytd-AwtjO5tVjFug_y-5Mg-zn48sp7R6MvY66TFqLOdiAprZKKPnj9sL_IK6xcsxu4N9hTgoXIzWKuQN2M6Y5im6cjkc0a7RW1y2-ZdLX32GT_ntB4u74sTms/s1600/2015-04-26_00069.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: black; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="231" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnbXkmekd8OHibbDVdDFcytd-AwtjO5tVjFug_y-5Mg-zn48sp7R6MvY66TFqLOdiAprZKKPnj9sL_IK6xcsxu4N9hTgoXIzWKuQN2M6Y5im6cjkc0a7RW1y2-ZdLX32GT_ntB4u74sTms/s400/2015-04-26_00069.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;">The coastline for much of Cornwall is pretty dramatic as rugged walls rise abruptly from the sea. The battering of waves and fluctuations in tide has created some pretty awesome formations and plenty to explore.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4gYLp4HJrn48Nhy-twr6KdLemv8QQ68Ir45ZcEGCo6T3buXFMGgs58G_ymknwAuBIdZqxe2H9Oi1yeAMymRxaUNROmOaaGs-cPHJ4QeX9815x1khXKufIspJjA8cWgCTGX76x-w0dDomK/s1600/20150919-DSC06506.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="background-color: black; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4gYLp4HJrn48Nhy-twr6KdLemv8QQ68Ir45ZcEGCo6T3buXFMGgs58G_ymknwAuBIdZqxe2H9Oi1yeAMymRxaUNROmOaaGs-cPHJ4QeX9815x1khXKufIspJjA8cWgCTGX76x-w0dDomK/s320/20150919-DSC06506.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;">While Cornwall's natural beauty attracts plenty of tourists there is no shortage of cool historical spots to check out, like Restormel Castle. </span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;">The remnants of Cornwall's ancient tin mining industry are hard to miss as many old smokestacks remain. It's also good to know that plenty of mineshafts are also left behind so be careful when exploring the ruins.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;"><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaX-AlXGMGI9_wgP-DZ25txXZnclNwIbaM5xorNymLMUVuEMmphZCM-X7d9wLCihu4qxKYn_DXO5EuMpEHTVYQAKnQRDqHepmftuUpV1zlCTrAeEE7jUY_jzVF2yWlA2WTR2G-NcVTy1dU/s1600/20150919-DSC06537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="182" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaX-AlXGMGI9_wgP-DZ25txXZnclNwIbaM5xorNymLMUVuEMmphZCM-X7d9wLCihu4qxKYn_DXO5EuMpEHTVYQAKnQRDqHepmftuUpV1zlCTrAeEE7jUY_jzVF2yWlA2WTR2G-NcVTy1dU/s400/20150919-DSC06537.jpg" width="400" /></a></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;">There is also no shortage of lighthouses along the Cornish coast. I reckon a good number of seamen are extremely glad for this.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;">A Cornish sunset.</span></div>
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<span style="background-color: black;">I'll post a bit about the climbing we did in Cornwall in the next couple days.......</span></div>
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walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-43410011414033920082015-08-28T09:50:00.001-07:002015-08-28T09:50:22.999-07:00Can't get enough Bohuslän <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It might have something to do with the crap weather in England but I still haven't fully transitioned back since our trip to Sweden. It's always a little unfortunate when your climbing psyche is for boulders that are a long way away. Since returning I've found myself looking at old pictures/videos from Bohuslän and jonesing to be back. Man I love that place. Anyways, I thought I'd share a few pictures from Bohuslän to entice and motivate folks. </div>
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And for those that don't know, every blogpost is labeled by country, city/town and region/area so if you want to see all the posts from Bohuslän (or somewhere else) just scroll to the very bottom and click on the appropriate label. I wanted the blog to function like a climbing reference of sorts and at some point I'll make it more user friendly. Hope you enjoy the little photo tour of Bohuslän </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0UR3V2MndAe8wWWvyOQPzoxFde4_NcxBXza9Ot-kTeVsI8wC9_6O23wti_kH_147cTl5-suC67DM6Nhfpd3Z5GffFBbUr7GXRx_hklrt417vUmR_uYBPKFC8tWOXFTZ4c-NPdWnAQMOB_/s1600/2013-9-01007.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0UR3V2MndAe8wWWvyOQPzoxFde4_NcxBXza9Ot-kTeVsI8wC9_6O23wti_kH_147cTl5-suC67DM6Nhfpd3Z5GffFBbUr7GXRx_hklrt417vUmR_uYBPKFC8tWOXFTZ4c-NPdWnAQMOB_/s400/2013-9-01007.jpg" width="232" /></a></div>
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Most of the areas in Bohuslän are small but the quality of problems are often exceptional. This problem is located at an area consisting of only a few boulders but they are well worth the visit. I can't remember the name of this problem Kim is doing but it is classic.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIg_m1oQaAHcJt4_R_F20EycKPKYevK9znnCAmEYHx5CMK8PZs1g8G3mwHWxy_GbyLV2w8-ib08Njayypu_oMhpD9QwY2J-bovzHjv50HIppkZJPmvgpAR2RX87vxxjD39Thnupe_4YJ4z/s1600/2013-9-01014.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIg_m1oQaAHcJt4_R_F20EycKPKYevK9znnCAmEYHx5CMK8PZs1g8G3mwHWxy_GbyLV2w8-ib08Njayypu_oMhpD9QwY2J-bovzHjv50HIppkZJPmvgpAR2RX87vxxjD39Thnupe_4YJ4z/s400/2013-9-01014.jpg" width="286" /></a></div>
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<i>Sunshine Arete</i> is a problem I miraculously managed to FA on a warm summer day and is located at the same area as the previous problem.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglGZKK-l_GtVgCxc9oMsYUoJAOoU9RZ7DydlHWybvH7_Nti8lMMYQB57txsvK9AMCs5ZT-CPT1_KZLJPQgzPJu9UuwjsjtjMCYzNEz4Oe_qaemSWMf_mcPkez4ezegIfN6usrZINDMo9e6/s1600/2013-9-01061.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglGZKK-l_GtVgCxc9oMsYUoJAOoU9RZ7DydlHWybvH7_Nti8lMMYQB57txsvK9AMCs5ZT-CPT1_KZLJPQgzPJu9UuwjsjtjMCYzNEz4Oe_qaemSWMf_mcPkez4ezegIfN6usrZINDMo9e6/s400/2013-9-01061.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This granite cave has serious potential for some hard enduro lines. Two of the three most obvious straight-outs are done and here John works on the undone project. We almost did all the moves that day but have never been back.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmRIpD_bVj-85iHN9P3h_MrGlPTQOai5C1R1ua_Axb_myQDkvjQOYfpvZiC6MYRslzvhnk6aAucxP659QvPX_Yq9TkvXSWaw3mS0uiwI6g1koaAjkZ7ockEr7u0bADkw_cu_YsXMMtB54f/s1600/2013-9-01050.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgmRIpD_bVj-85iHN9P3h_MrGlPTQOai5C1R1ua_Axb_myQDkvjQOYfpvZiC6MYRslzvhnk6aAucxP659QvPX_Yq9TkvXSWaw3mS0uiwI6g1koaAjkZ7ockEr7u0bADkw_cu_YsXMMtB54f/s400/2013-9-01050.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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Another shot of John on the same project. The next move is the one we never managed to do.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV_WVGFW_FH8_aVME_Xyk5oL9sPRIx6iIJH1Yw7g70IuGX1cM1mEMsaKknwMlEfLjEeh5VW_rx4cb0AKjGcaG-8cRO1uDKFX75rR79zwTtJXmzVRteooXfrsGGisp1c8fLcEtPiK6BBKLV/s1600/2014-03-29_00024.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="225" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV_WVGFW_FH8_aVME_Xyk5oL9sPRIx6iIJH1Yw7g70IuGX1cM1mEMsaKknwMlEfLjEeh5VW_rx4cb0AKjGcaG-8cRO1uDKFX75rR79zwTtJXmzVRteooXfrsGGisp1c8fLcEtPiK6BBKLV/s400/2014-03-29_00024.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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<i>Abiyoyo</i> is<i> o</i>ne of my all time favorite FAs and I even did a <a href="http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.co.uk/2014/04/slaying-giant-abiyoyo-goes-down.html" target="_blank">whole blogpost</a> about it. As far as I know it still hasn't seen a second ascent.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV9rha7MdlxbYi5MsObnEJ2Dr1GteIJ_aTV_t81KerKFfcnXjXEO9IaB11HEpzZVKIZ5rE24p0BH5DSpc3Qaxa9Jya-1PKuNkbk7ob5eroKb5V1gOhPo49ZX2nFYqjyGc8jisTy-1nrP2N/s1600/2010-07-20+131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiV9rha7MdlxbYi5MsObnEJ2Dr1GteIJ_aTV_t81KerKFfcnXjXEO9IaB11HEpzZVKIZ5rE24p0BH5DSpc3Qaxa9Jya-1PKuNkbk7ob5eroKb5V1gOhPo49ZX2nFYqjyGc8jisTy-1nrP2N/s320/2010-07-20+131.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>Sioux City Sarsparilla</i> is one of my FAs that actually see lots of traffic as it is regarded as one of the best in Bohuslän. This one also gets it's <a href="http://kearneyjourney.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07/sioux-city-sarsaparilla.html" target="_blank">own blogpost</a> and there is even a <a href="https://vimeo.com/14374864" target="_blank">video of the FA</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TAAGbR3YuMFwg9D5e2uyo_EckAVC22ggZGry_lDEJAyEnYxoWtUKv-_3NafLXIe6m7t6hMpR95pVcwShadgweTHIxAk_5KfrQSjGWfVaodZMbVyt8CQo4ukjUQDH5rgOdx4cmpijGEr4/s1600/2013-4-2700006.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0TAAGbR3YuMFwg9D5e2uyo_EckAVC22ggZGry_lDEJAyEnYxoWtUKv-_3NafLXIe6m7t6hMpR95pVcwShadgweTHIxAk_5KfrQSjGWfVaodZMbVyt8CQo4ukjUQDH5rgOdx4cmpijGEr4/s400/2013-4-2700006.jpg" width="225" /></a></div>
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Yet another FA, <i>Cuerop de Hombre</i> can also be counted among the best in Bohuslän. It is located in Häller, which is considered the epicenter of climbing in Bohuslän for both bouldering and trad-climbing. There is also an <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tg65QL4I7zA" target="_blank">old video of the FA</a>.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGCeQMEoQ1oe-qULNh5f0EMUDhKqR8SWHK9r1XP6Y80sBWti9ZiCQ5HcigIUFkbBa00fGTGyo-5Th4RVWX1BABNy_kMs-XmLtWdSzIBwe8kGAuox7b1DardfEKm5csD34l2oljVE7fLCQG/s1600/2014-04-18_00053.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGCeQMEoQ1oe-qULNh5f0EMUDhKqR8SWHK9r1XP6Y80sBWti9ZiCQ5HcigIUFkbBa00fGTGyo-5Th4RVWX1BABNy_kMs-XmLtWdSzIBwe8kGAuox7b1DardfEKm5csD34l2oljVE7fLCQG/s400/2014-04-18_00053.jpg" width="271" /></a></div>
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<i>Hippopotamus</i> is another classic problem in Häller. This power-endurance problem has alluded me and is one of the established problems I'm most excited about getting back to.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIe1sm1kPhy-03_GLxOLYWsdJbwff9ISy74x6C4Gh7oe2VNELBtPMsOpx4mRLznMqPt93lUgSHh4AINyWjjK22idwSfXlZJG3gs_o8eNzoUEl7CAzVkyHNgGAO8zZquCuMM9shXSTXsgB8/s1600/2011-04-20_011.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIe1sm1kPhy-03_GLxOLYWsdJbwff9ISy74x6C4Gh7oe2VNELBtPMsOpx4mRLznMqPt93lUgSHh4AINyWjjK22idwSfXlZJG3gs_o8eNzoUEl7CAzVkyHNgGAO8zZquCuMM9shXSTXsgB8/s400/2011-04-20_011.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Incredible rock, world-class bouldering and spectacular settings combine to make Bohuslän one of my favorite places in the world.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl8O_n7xyms8eTXcW0CojBAMFvDDY7MXk0kUZGj9HW4S5EQ7fGEOF9tAtQ8Y1d8krqhF_hxQ3kNE3wKC-2gsq41WC-q6_4TW4CkBmabZ6-h74WI8m2lVMz7rJzKZxiJpUsD1PUY4Ku0jw5/s1600/DSC_0024.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl8O_n7xyms8eTXcW0CojBAMFvDDY7MXk0kUZGj9HW4S5EQ7fGEOF9tAtQ8Y1d8krqhF_hxQ3kNE3wKC-2gsq41WC-q6_4TW4CkBmabZ6-h74WI8m2lVMz7rJzKZxiJpUsD1PUY4Ku0jw5/s400/DSC_0024.JPG" width="265" /></a></div>
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I tend to put an emphasis on harder problems as the sparsity of grips and general blankness that make climbs beautiful also tends to make them difficult. Fortunately Bohuslän hold lots of amazing moderates as you don't have to be a crusher to enjoy the climbing. Here Spang demonstrates how it's done on his classic problem <i>Falsifierbarhet.</i></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirkmzk2SLCdYLUbKaaIOryorD5rR7wf7qb2G_tyn42SkujU8toG4f-rOwM-q3FAuZavRGQZU7d8VrO7y8K2lq0WfBq_SSOkHB9oiM_V804BqGo6OPaXbx0mj-fJ7jDKDzn0jKE_TsrgArl/s1600/2010-06-29+061.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirkmzk2SLCdYLUbKaaIOryorD5rR7wf7qb2G_tyn42SkujU8toG4f-rOwM-q3FAuZavRGQZU7d8VrO7y8K2lq0WfBq_SSOkHB9oiM_V804BqGo6OPaXbx0mj-fJ7jDKDzn0jKE_TsrgArl/s400/2010-06-29+061.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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And for those of you that are crushers there are plenty of projects to be had. This particular project will require strong fingers and a good head as the hold gradually get smaller the higher you get.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Z-rlqGVKwbtA7vd6sv9x8-dUWhwbj_FOot0Z1DStUYFJhYRrov9ob0rkwJ0NVLwyJsAUWOQBvBsqJlWuDoT9vxggH4Ua6cVHs57Q3QpV7-7dtqCuXN6RtsIV2Z7-KxOCmeC2WMau8xBf/s1600/IMG_3113.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Z-rlqGVKwbtA7vd6sv9x8-dUWhwbj_FOot0Z1DStUYFJhYRrov9ob0rkwJ0NVLwyJsAUWOQBvBsqJlWuDoT9vxggH4Ua6cVHs57Q3QpV7-7dtqCuXN6RtsIV2Z7-KxOCmeC2WMau8xBf/s400/IMG_3113.JPG" width="400" /></a></div>
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This project should have been done years ago but we've never been back to it as one needs a boat to reach the island. One of these day.......can't wait to return to Bohuslän.</div>
walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6899354019050316769.post-91221893530720944092015-08-24T08:02:00.002-07:002015-08-24T08:02:24.519-07:00Home Sweet Hem: Bouldering in Bohuslän<div>
It's funny how you sometimes have to leave a place before you can really appreciate it. I always thought the climbing on Sweden's west coast was exceptional but it wasn't until it was no longer my backyard that I realized how incredibly good I had it. We just arrived back in England after a whirlwind 3-week vacation in Sweden and I'm missing the place more than ever. I wish I had more time to revisit all the places I love but instead I'll just have to look at pictures...... </div>
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Here are a few photos from the first week of our trip spent in the mecca of Swedish climbing that is Bohuslän. It was awesome going back to some of my favorite areas and I even got to explore and put up a couple new problems.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy2ecKLtPCa-jQt-2u3urM2v5F7M4mFPUQXsKT1PtS-ik-EgaUSWPE5ZrAMJhOX9d-J9UGYGe0glLD8TMjijsZA4UEza4Xq4yNZ7HPR3Aw106HdG87s8LrScTr5A_ailVsq6RSFIi7JW3n/s1600/dsc05813.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy2ecKLtPCa-jQt-2u3urM2v5F7M4mFPUQXsKT1PtS-ik-EgaUSWPE5ZrAMJhOX9d-J9UGYGe0glLD8TMjijsZA4UEza4Xq4yNZ7HPR3Aw106HdG87s8LrScTr5A_ailVsq6RSFIi7JW3n/s400/dsc05813.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Johan on the classic <i>Beach Bum</i> at South Beach. South Beach is a small area that has several great problems right on the beach</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhOVE2fii7oD4V-A0zdiY1xJOURAJ1bCoJB2pj6shGTOxFGJJUfP6BeE-L21vp4K7NX9EViXm3bsKJPGAWUPqhxK9JNCgnAmp-X1y2M8iycV7raILQD39YTDzswUTsS0dGQKNS2jGIzS3/s1600/dsc05904.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDhOVE2fii7oD4V-A0zdiY1xJOURAJ1bCoJB2pj6shGTOxFGJJUfP6BeE-L21vp4K7NX9EViXm3bsKJPGAWUPqhxK9JNCgnAmp-X1y2M8iycV7raILQD39YTDzswUTsS0dGQKNS2jGIzS3/s400/dsc05904.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Another shot of <i>Beach Bum</i> that shows the idyllic setting.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTdp4sdLSAg9j3FKc2hSk-cUPXy1TNerIk-eAVP3MzJTB5Ov3dDgpA27ND9qEzQOu-5E3JZRCTb84Bs50wT8l_Jyswd9W6DLK2HIV_a8hsnDVnFhZHpF9u0KNUZOa102tt_FXZuF8HVoY/s1600/dsc05850.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvTdp4sdLSAg9j3FKc2hSk-cUPXy1TNerIk-eAVP3MzJTB5Ov3dDgpA27ND9qEzQOu-5E3JZRCTb84Bs50wT8l_Jyswd9W6DLK2HIV_a8hsnDVnFhZHpF9u0KNUZOa102tt_FXZuF8HVoY/s400/dsc05850.jpg" width="252" /></a></div>
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About 50 meters of water separates the sand of South Beach from a small island called Blåbergsholmen. We spent an afternoon exploring and found quite a bit of climbing, with a couple walls that are well worth a return trip. I only actually managed to do this one new problem as it took more time and effort than anticipated (and I was shut down on the other things I brushed up). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn4EHi4lFBATqCI3CHGUzU63u92dNrOzMX2w-HemDtXsVpcrScQK3XKGt37_3ZY_dNRolNx1d0topRC_QWzx9ElZuHScwLy6h6CA1wwuEpAQ-K2uJugBU0nsUGE5HZ30hCAc-hmJLivLPF/s1600/dsc05847.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="251" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn4EHi4lFBATqCI3CHGUzU63u92dNrOzMX2w-HemDtXsVpcrScQK3XKGt37_3ZY_dNRolNx1d0topRC_QWzx9ElZuHScwLy6h6CA1wwuEpAQ-K2uJugBU0nsUGE5HZ30hCAc-hmJLivLPF/s400/dsc05847.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The first move of <i>North Beach</i> is a dyno to the lip of the roof. A lower start is possible for those with long arms and strong fingers.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIeQNZ1jbQWT1m_KVpj-kZKm_SPKd8sLLUykVPPNuv-BYj2u5fK5Y-Y2F_58DtmNkh9XqfpuoHcYJgXAaCt5O8WTGBfrjhyYbpfXQNd5nwtjoSdZmelxdA5xoTHJ34ZZoBtT2miHh_KZKs/s1600/dsc05854.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="252" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIeQNZ1jbQWT1m_KVpj-kZKm_SPKd8sLLUykVPPNuv-BYj2u5fK5Y-Y2F_58DtmNkh9XqfpuoHcYJgXAaCt5O8WTGBfrjhyYbpfXQNd5nwtjoSdZmelxdA5xoTHJ34ZZoBtT2miHh_KZKs/s400/dsc05854.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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The 2nd to last move is the crux, requiring a long reach from an odd "crimp-mantel". Good times.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLOaeGHHRk-r3X3uHggUA9fGH6muZKHYFMxw7HOhcC-SsxUXZMLmP0oGfNTyL04C-d-rnGaXyCouucTc-lQ8rpEfwBcr24nlGBxLA5DdhKwXMyRwKowLqazx1T9v_W2aZrnqw31PUlTOoY/s1600/dsc05969.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLOaeGHHRk-r3X3uHggUA9fGH6muZKHYFMxw7HOhcC-SsxUXZMLmP0oGfNTyL04C-d-rnGaXyCouucTc-lQ8rpEfwBcr24nlGBxLA5DdhKwXMyRwKowLqazx1T9v_W2aZrnqw31PUlTOoY/s400/dsc05969.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Another idyllic climbing area in Bohuslän is Ulorna. While Ulorna is known primarily for its trad-climbing there is also some top-notch bouldering and an impressive amount of potential. Of course if you're looking for fa's here you'll need to be bold, fix some landing or have plenty of pads as most of the boulders are located in a jumble at the base of the cliff.</div>
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<br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVtavyqW_v6EYlqQKln0OEbCzLbZ8t4_lPVi6nRBB-eWqabI7AkzENYajmKyZuzY6Dz0Y6XVGHsCP5Ga-DJcpva186aGt3pvVE_LtXwlCBVMFRShArp7ragDBiyf7bCw6V4dfT62eMyLs6/s1600/dsc05926.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVtavyqW_v6EYlqQKln0OEbCzLbZ8t4_lPVi6nRBB-eWqabI7AkzENYajmKyZuzY6Dz0Y6XVGHsCP5Ga-DJcpva186aGt3pvVE_LtXwlCBVMFRShArp7ragDBiyf7bCw6V4dfT62eMyLs6/s400/dsc05926.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Markus on <i>Lego</i>,<i> </i>one of the few problems in Ulorna I know the name of.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXjNYcmHxWfdawKo4QsG0MKPcNeltHgLmYiwLjbitdvW3ERegq3CkXc2Obqnt3pGlQCPYGwUIL7q-gunI4kQEh75bEHWKGMAYuaTn-be7VGj6AsDpbFlX6G5Ui3rPw-zb_njUsbzJLxxC/s1600/dsc05952.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="253" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZXjNYcmHxWfdawKo4QsG0MKPcNeltHgLmYiwLjbitdvW3ERegq3CkXc2Obqnt3pGlQCPYGwUIL7q-gunI4kQEh75bEHWKGMAYuaTn-be7VGj6AsDpbFlX6G5Ui3rPw-zb_njUsbzJLxxC/s400/dsc05952.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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This hanging arete is rarely done despite having a decent landing. Maybe it's the locker heel-hook and tenuous moves at the top that deters people. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkp_-O-u5YNIUD7qLH8GiKr9yWwViltZk3uszEIgI4iBHLo86OQSogdv7FVMZtbqmh0W3D59B_XtWdBpATwyqLMSXdwxGKr07QoYpb008eEtLaSKXzqQgav5-XsHgMqBFwnNSi8oMPr0Ma/s1600/dsc05922.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkp_-O-u5YNIUD7qLH8GiKr9yWwViltZk3uszEIgI4iBHLo86OQSogdv7FVMZtbqmh0W3D59B_XtWdBpATwyqLMSXdwxGKr07QoYpb008eEtLaSKXzqQgav5-XsHgMqBFwnNSi8oMPr0Ma/s400/dsc05922.jpg" width="266" /></a></div>
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Not all the development in Ulorna requires lots of pads. I brushed up this one because I could climb on it by myself. I ended up figuring out all the moves but never pieced it together. Here Jesper tries to find purchase in the summer heat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq4ulL_trprEFC76DciJEW6Ivbu5ISS8uu8MJUhXVSMH_XFptOo6LvI57IkP9lLGs00HHTJ1ekvERf36o5WrU4mAMIWv2D_as_9jDZ5BXagxoRMWeqlcPE41cAXIO6tsZkxD8kix3ZaGpT/s1600/dsc05973.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq4ulL_trprEFC76DciJEW6Ivbu5ISS8uu8MJUhXVSMH_XFptOo6LvI57IkP9lLGs00HHTJ1ekvERf36o5WrU4mAMIWv2D_as_9jDZ5BXagxoRMWeqlcPE41cAXIO6tsZkxD8kix3ZaGpT/s400/dsc05973.jpg" width="246" /></a></div>
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This striking arete/dihedral has seen some attention in the past but to my knowledge it had never been done. We spent about 3 hours figuring out some cryptic beta that leads to a committing windmill-dyno at the top. I managed to send by the skin of my teeth and I'm calling it <i>Apple Bomb</i>.</div>
walkerkearneyhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/16952680651963748996noreply@blogger.com0