Thursday, July 28, 2011

Chuck Norris Doesn't Fall

Last week I finally made it to a high beautiful arete I've been thinking about for awhile.  I'd found the line a couple months ago but have had a hard time finding someone willing to go out there with me.  So last week when Pontus called and said he was up for an afternoon session I new exactly where I wanted to go.  

The arete is tall and striking.  I was initially worried that the crack running to the right of the arete would "interfere" with the arete line and make it "too easy" but the climbing is such that the crack and arete are two separate lines that share the same start.  The crack line went down quickly but was definitively not easy and at the end of the day, and to my surprise,  I found myself topping out the arete after nearly falling off the last move.

I call the crack exit Lonewolf McQuade and the arete Chuck Norris Doesn't Fall.  Both climbs are excellent and not to be missed by high-ball lovers visiting the area.

 Thinking about how much I don't want to fall from the top

At this point on the climb one can go right to the easier Lonewolf McQuade or follow the airy arete and hope to be like Chuck Norris and not fall 

Monday, July 25, 2011

A Near Wobbler in Font

When I was in Font during March I kind of forced Chris to get back on L'Hélicoptère because I thought it would be fun to film.  I figured I'd do something with that footage and here is what I ended up with.  Thanks to Chris for being a good sport.  Next time Chris, next time. 

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Solklinten Goodies: I Must Break You and Y-Crack

 Y-Crack isn't so hard but will test your mental fortitude as it's a bit high

 I Must Break You has an early crux that requires a heel-hook and a subtle mantel. 

It's a good idea to properly brush and tick the top.  It's a reoccurring lesson I learned the hard way once again.  

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

Solklinten Goodies: Stallone Area

When entire areas are going up I find it difficult to apply names to all the problems and keep track of what I've done.  I have certainly been slacking as I have only named about a tenth of the 70ish problems we've put up in Solklinten.  Since retro-naming generally doesn't happen Johan and I decided to pick a theme for a small sector we started to brush up and actually name the new problems the same day we put them up.  What better theme than Sylvester Stallone.  Here are a few of the problems that went up.

Johan on the sectors best, Over the Top.  

Sticking the first move and gearing up for the slopy top-out

Party at Kitty and Stud's (the original name of Stallone's first movie) uses thuggery to climb out a short overhang.

Italian Stallion (the re-release name of Stallone's first movie) follow's the arete and shares a top-out with the previous problems.  Both problems will appeal to folks that like steeper climbing

Sunday, July 17, 2011

Solklinten Goodies: Hostage Taker

Hostage Taker took longer to put together than I anticipated.  The solitary line of holds out the steep bulge had the look of something I'd put together in a few burns and I initially wondered if it was worth the time to brush up.  Ultimately the line was too enticing and to my surprise I found myself defeated after the first session.  The top-out that I thought would be a gimme ended up being anything but and it would take another session and a little help from my friend Said to finally piece out the problem.  

Hostage Taker is big moves on good holds to a slightly strenuous sloppy top-out.  The movement is sustained and knowing the sequence for the top-out will certainly help.  My friend Pontus was there on the first day and posted a couple more picture on his blog.  

The first move of Hostage Taker uses a heel-toe and bad underclings to reach a jug.  

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Solklinten Goodies: Go Figure

I've been pretty bad about reporting all the new problems that have been going up at Solklinten.  I been busy finding and brushing countless projects and I quickly forget the things from the day before and never get around to adding them to our local bouldering site.  As of now there are upwards of 60 problems that run the gambit of difficulties and styles and in hopes of enticing more folks to come to the area I'll start reporting some of the gems.  These problems are top class and should draw people out, just hope they bring brushes as there is still lots to do.  

So here's a couple pictures of one of the harder problems I've put up at Solklinten.  I call it Go Figure do to the fact that a figure-4 is mandatory beta (seriously, if anyone can do it without a figure-4 I'm impressed). This steep problem shares a top-out with the Miracle Project and clocks in at around 13 moves.  It took me 3 days to complete awaits a second ascent.  

 Said at the base of Go Figure.  With a couple pads the landing is pretty casual as the raised ground behind you doesn't interfere with the climbing and makes falling from the top a non-issue.  

The top of the problem.  The figure-4 crux is reaching a crimp from a monster jug at the end of the roof section.  This jug is also were the Miracle Project will join Go Figure.

Said adjusts his feet after doing the first move

The second move, and still a long way from the top

Saturday, July 9, 2011

New Problem at Kullavik: Chicken Game

Nearly every time I've gone to Kullavik over the last few years I've check out a beautiful arete and thought "I need to try this thing".  Unfortunately it wasn't so simple as a jagged landing required several pads and I couldn't find anyone keen on tackling this highball with me.  Well last week that all changed as Tumle, Isak, Johan and myself assembled some pads and went to work.  It took figuring out beta and mustering some courage but in the end Johan and I sent in successive burns and Chicken Game was born.  This problem is well worth rallying the necessary pads and one of Kullavik's best.  It also remains shaded all day and provides a respite on warm summer days. 

Johan scopes the top-out while Tumle and Isak arrange pads

Johan focuses on the task at hand

Gearing up for the crux and hoping Tumle knows how to spot.  Tumle is straddling a large hole which isn't actually as dangerous as it looks but wears heavy on the mind when dead-pointing to a small crimp. 

Johan post crux and hoping for and easy topout on the FA

Friday, July 8, 2011

After Skeleton

The other day I climbed an obscure boulder problem in the middle of Gothenburg's most accessible area.  After Skeleton is a bit unassuming but it has perfect stone and good movement.  I fully recommend it to folks heading to Utby that are looking for a quality boulder problem they haven't already done/tried.  

 Johan reaches the bag intermediate sloper 

Almost sticking the crux move

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

More on Trainspotting

The horizontal cracks on Trainspotting actually provide good holds.  The trick is working your fingers in at the right spot.  I reckon that several of the moves are low percentage and a send would require a bit of finesse.  it's one of those problems that takes a few sessions to pick up the subtleties.   

Johan finding the sweet spot

Tuesday, July 5, 2011


Trainspotting is perhaps the most storied project in Gothenburg.  A beautiful line that is absolutely possible, it still amazes me that it hasn't been done.  I give it less than a year before it finally goes down.

 Johan on the opening moves of Trainspotting

How much longer will it be a project?