Local bouldering and and a few new problems in Sweden

Here is my last post on Sweden (unless I actually edit some videos) for awhile....

Gothenburg is littered with urban bouldering as pockets of rock are scattered around town and some real gems can be found.  I never really considered that I'd find much more climbing in the middle of town so when Henrik told me about a good looking wall 300 meters from my apartment I was surprised.  This wall is a little hidden but I'm still not quite sure how I missed it.  

Kim on The Notorious Pocket at the local wall.  I seems that this wall was once used as a shelter of sorts as a couple holes are left from where something was fastened to the wall.  One of those holes make the starting hold of this problem.  

 Here is Henrik on one of the warm ups we established.

The hardest problem the local wall yielded was a cool compression problem that required a little trickery at the top.  I called it Home Court Advantage due to it's location.

And despite my limited climbing days and propensity to punt, I did manage to climb some other new problems in Sweden this year.  Here are a couple new problems we established in Bohuslan before the weather gods killed climbing....

My buddy Kalle told me about an arete a year ago and for some reason it took me a spell before I checked it out.  I'm not sure what took me so long as I knew this problem was a classic the second I saw it.  Pyssel made short work of it and I struggled my way to the top.  Anyone looking for a great problem up in Bohuslan should check out Reichenberg.  And the sit is possible for those looking for a real challenge.  

To the right of Reichenberg is another great problem that deserves some traffic as well.  Estelle briefly uses the arete of Reichenberg but is an independent line and great climbing, complete with a committing crux move at the top.  It's worth mentioning that the boulder yielded two other problems as well. 

Mud-cake is a roof that took quite a bit of cleaning and work to do.  The key beta is a kung-fu heel and the red-point crux is a desperate slap to a jug after the lip encounter.  Fun climbing and considerably harder that I thought it would be.

Next time an update from 'merica!

A Few that Got Away

Once again I've left behind the dark confines of Sweden for greener pastures in the "Land of the Free".  We are a week into our 4 month trip but before I start spraying about life in 'Merica I've got one (or two) post about Sweden.......

It's standard to leave behind a few projects in Sweden when I make the winter journey to the States but this year it seems I'm leaving behind more than usual.  The combo of a new baby and bad weather made the usually productive fall nothing more that a string of rainy days and dirty diapers.  So it goes.  My angst at leaving behind projects this year comes from the fact that I will not be returning to Sweden in the spring to slay said projects but instead moving briefly to England (I keep telling myself it's only a year, it's only a year, it's only a year). Fortunately these projects won't be going anywhere even if it takes awhile to get back to them.

Here are just a few of the many projects I left behind in Sweden.

Stefan on one of the west coasts best squeeze problems, Hippopotamus.  The crux is simply having juice left at the end and I thought I'd get a chance to finish off this project after punting in April but life happens. 

I showed Pyssel this problem over the summer and he styled the fa and I couldn't put it together.  Needed anther day but never got it.  

I found this gem some years ago and brushed it up just before injuring my hamstring and leaving me unable to do a requisite heel-hook.  I took Pyssel here and he fired it after some work.  Was hopping to get back to it but.... 

I stumbled upon a small area while exploring one rainy day and would later get a couple "dryish" hours to try the two best lines.  One is this off the deck mantle that took roughly and hour on rope before cracking a very tenuous sequence.  It started raining before I got to attempt it from the ground and it will be scary.

The other problem in the small area is a difficult squeeze problem.  We managed to do all the moves despite the conditions but it will be a challenge to put this guy together.  Maybe I'll have the requisite fitness when I get back to this a year and a half from now.

With the help of an orienteering map I found a solitary in the middle of nowhere.  This striking arete brought me back there one day over the summer and while we managed the stand and a couple other problems the sit-start awaits a return. 

Some of the Latest Development

Here are a few pictures of some problems we've recently put up around Sweden's west coast.  I'm actually not sure what we ended up naming most of these as I've forgotten or we never found a fitting moniker.  

Novak on a random boulder I found out near Härryda.  The easier problem goes straight up but if you like it spicy you can head right to a high crux.

Tumle on a fun compression problem off Härskogsvägen. 

An awesome problem that climbs out a roof and ends with a crux helicopter dyno.  Pyssel, not surprisingly, got the FA when I took him here and I'm psyched to get back as I never put it all together.

Mathias on Ménage à Quatuor, one of Bohuslän's best moderates.  We put up a few other problems in this area but this striking rail feature was the gem.

Mathias on one of the other problems near Ménage à Quatuor.  Around the corner from this problem is an amazing project that is above my pay-grade but could go for someone with fingers of steel.

Back to Reality, and it's not so bad.

I don't live in Rogaland nor do I have the possibility to take long and frequent trips there and I just have to accept that.  And while it is a far cry from Norway, I actually live in a pretty awesome place to be a climber and have my fair share of world class bouldering.  So now that I'm over the post-trip blues I can get back to enjoying the plethora of rock around Gothenburg.

Here is a little video of a couple newish problems that were recently put up in Utby.  It's kind of surprising that these escaped our attention for so long, particularly Det första taket which is probably one of the better problems in the area (props to Pyssel for the vision).

Hope you enjoy.



Utby Bouldering: Three New Problems from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Collaboration, Instagram, and a couple Pictures

The blog has been going along at a snails pace recently and I apologize for that.  At some point I'd like to make some serious upgrades to Kearney Journey but the time required to do so deters my feeble efforts.  That being said there are a couple recent developments for those with a voracious appetite for climbing media.

Firstly, I've joined forces with my friends at Climbingpics.  If you haven't seen the blog it is pretty much what the name suggests as we post a new picture Monday to Friday.  Anyways, I'll be posting pictures there from time to time so if you can't get through the day without your dose of climbing porn you should check it out.

Secondly, I've just signed up for Instagram.  I figured I've got a smart phone so why not pepper folks with pictures from my adventures.  Those of you that are interested in new development will probably like this as I realized most of the pictures on my phone are new areas/problems.  I'll posting the pictures to my Facebook page for those of you without Instagram that want to follow.

And a report from Norway is a bit overdue but it is coming.  In the meantime here are a couple pictures of some problems from Sweden's best coast.

Pyssel on the the FA of Rainbow Rocket 2.  It's surprisingly difficult to coordinate the double-step dyno.

Henrik trying Executive Privilege, a problem I put up a couple years ago.

Sefan on the amazing Hippopotamus with trad-climbers spectating.  

Golf Wall Video

Here is a little video of three of the problems I put up south of Gothenburg at the Golf Wall.  Hope you enjoy.



Swedish Bouldering: The Golf Wall from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Landvetter Project Goes Down

The blog has been a bit slow lately.  It is partly due to Sweden entering the oppressive time of year when out-door climbing become less frequent but mostly it's because I've been busy/lazy.  Fortunately that is all about to change as I'll be making my annual trip to the States on November 27th. I'm looking forward to basking in the sun and shredding my tips.  Until then I'm hoping to get a few more crisp days here in Sweden to tick off some projects.

Speaking of projects, a couple weeks ago I made it back to a good one I've been very excited about.  The Landvetter project has been high on my list since first laying eyes on it but it took awhile to get back to.  When Antonio was here he was psyched (when the weather was good and he wasn't sick) and we brought a rope to brush the top-out and suss out the the finishing moves.  I was excited when I realized it could go down and elated when I stuck the crux and climbed to the top.  It's a great problem and I hope folks come check it out, but I recommend bringing a rope to clean the top.  It's easy up there (relatively speaking) but a fall from the lip might send you tumbling down the hill.  Dirty holds are not our friend.

I'm calling the problem "Catan" after my favorite board game.  Here are a couple pictures

A view of the boulder.  The arete and the steep face to the right will be good climbs if they get properly brushed.

Antonio gunning for the big crux move.

Antonio working the post-crux moves.  None of these moves are gimmes but are considerably easier than the crux.  It also feels pretty exposed as the ground abruptly slopes away just outside the fall zone

Double Boogy and Back Swing

I recently put up two new problems near the Golf Wall just south of Gothenburg.  The area now holds about a half dozen difficult(ish) problems along with some easier problems and warm-ups.
 
Double Boogy is one of the new problems I put up and required a couple days to suss out and complete.  It climbs out a steep face using an awesome sloper and some trickery before some big moves at the top.  I needed a colder day and some try-hard to send this one.

The other problem is a fun roof I'm calling Back Swing that uses some cool holds and requires some body tension.

Here are a couple pictures.

 Milking the sloper on Double Boogy and trying to find balance to reach the crimp/pinch

 Gearing for the third bump on the arete to gain a good hold.  This is the last "hard" move.

Back Swing.  Kind of turdy but fun none-the-less

Not So Bad After All

After a very rainy start Sweden did show it's softer side to Antonio and blessed him with some sunny days and crisp conditions.  Antonio has a new lease on life and can once again be in the presence of sharp objects without an urge to stab himself.  Crazy what happens to desert folk when they are deprived of sunshine.

Here are a few picture of Antonio not sulking in the rain.

"I love Sweden......when it's not raining"

 Crimping 

 A new line we brushed up.  Unfortunately the tree interferes with the top-out.  Can't win them all

 Antonio climbing at the Golf Wall

 About to send Par for the Course

 Gunning for a jug at Hultasten

 Mölndal Lightning

Climbing at Kjugekull in the south of Sweden

Video: Executive Privilege and The Goonies

Here's a little video of a couple sweet problems I recently put up.  Neither have been repeated but both are worthy of some traffic.  Enjoy



Swedish Bouldering: Two New Problems Near Gothenburg from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Executive Privilege

Here's a couple more pictures of Executive Privilege, a problem I put up earlier this summer.  The problem is awesome and the area holds a bit more and is only about 20 minutes from town.

 Johan in front of the boulder.  Executive privilege sit-starts behind the tree and follows the line of features trending left then joining the arete with a dyno.

About to jump to the arete

A Productive Day Video

A couple week ago I went out brushing with Aleksej and I documented some of the day and threw something together.  This video is a little bit of an experiment in terms of time-lapse and syncing to music and while I'm not all that happy with how it turned out I learned a bit so the next one will be better.

The three problems we put up that day are all very good and the last two still need a second ascent.  Hope you enjoy.



A Productive Day: Three New Boulder Problems from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Landslide

Here are a few pictures of another problem we put up near Kungälv.  I called this one Landslide.

 Working out the moves on Landslide

 Aleksej sticking the first move.  About 8 more to go.

 Focus

Nearly sticking the dyno to the lip

FA's near Kungälv

Last week Aleksej and I went to try some lines I had found during previous explorations.  It ended up being quite a productive day as 3 sweet problems were established and a couple more projects got bushed up.

 Aleksej on his crack problem

 Aleksej on the perfect rock of Upper Deck

Barely sticking the big move on Upper Deck. 

Steep project

The Golf Wall

A couple months ago I was shown a low-resolution picture of an overhanging wall situated in an open beech forest with a perfect landing.  The picture was very enticing and I eventually found a couple friends willing to check it out one afternoon.  I was not disappointed by what I found.

The wall is actually situated on a golf course and while there is no danger of being hit by a stray ball there is a constant barrage of questions from golfers strolling by.  I reckon questions will become less frequent as the regular golfers become accustomed to seeing climbers  as the "Golf Wall" holds a couple gems that are sure to attract climbers.  I've now spent two afternoons at the wall and while I've done the two lines that where most enticing to me there are a couple more I'm keen to brush up.  The wall currently has 7 established climbs and the surrounding area offers plenty more.

 One of the steeper problems on the left side of the wall took the entire 3 hours of daylight my first afternoon.  In the end I was able to unlock the beta and stick the crux dyno in fading light.  I dubbed the problem Par for the Course.  

 Sticking the sloper before the dyno on Par for the Course.

 Aleksej on the fa of a nice arete on the Golf Wall

One of the main line on the Golf Wall is a highball that follows a thin crack.  From the ground it looks pretty easy but when you start climbing you realize the holds are worse than they look and moves get progressively harder.  At the end of my second afternoon I was able muster some courage and scrape over the the top of Tuttifrutti.

Newness in Kortedala

My friend Jocke recently began developing an area in Kortedala and I was fortunate enough to get a guided tour.  It was nice going to a new place were some brushing had already been done.  During the day I repeated some sweet problems and added a couple of my own.  Here are a couple picture of a fun crimp line I put up and called Offender as well as a little video.

 Hammie standing under Offender.  

Crimping my way to the top

Two from Kortedala from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.