Saturday, January 30, 2010


Warning: these photos are not for those with weak stomachs.

We managed to get Peter up to the Buttermilks for one day. It could have gone better. Looks like he'll need a few days off.

Game over

Raise your hand if you love granite!

A full Bishop report will come over the next few days.

The Last from J-Tree.....for now

Here are the last couple of pics from J-Tree. I took a little footage and hopefully a little film will be produced. We'll see.

Peter grimaces from a sharp J-Tree crimper

Lina on JBMFP

Peter on a steep problem with a beautiful backdrop

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

More from J-Tree

We managed to spend 4 full days in Joshua Tree and remain psyched. I'm even excited about returning someday as there are some supposedly sweet problems I didn't make it too. Amongst all the choss there are some gems.

We arrived in Bishop this morning and are happily taking an off day as our tips are wrecked. Bishop received enough snow to scare off most of the climbers but a few stragglers have been brushing off snow in the volcanics and the forecast is splendid once again. Unfortunately the Milks are probably out for awhile and with one week before we leave we are uncertain as to whether we'll get a day on granite or if we will be exiled to the volcanics. You take what you can get.

Here are some more pics from J-Tree. And for those that might wander down there one day, the following list of problems are a few I recommend seeking out. These are problems mostly in the main areas that I reckon give a taste of J-Tree and that will hopefully make you not hate the area (I guess it depends on if you can do some of them or not).

The Chube
Illicit Sweetie
Stem Gem
Chili Sauce
Streetcar Named Desire
Tidal Wave
White Rastafarian
Planet X

Lina enjoying the sun

Tidal Wave. One of the best problems I did in J-Tree

Peter on the Meadow Boulder. Atypical J-Tree climb, steep on rounded jugs.

Lina demonstrates the "beached whale" technique on Thin Crack for on uninterested Hammie.

A quality unknown problem

Peter making the Nicole Overhang look easy.

Lina on the fantastic Illicit Sweetie. I wish all rock in J-Tree was this good.

Peter on one of J-Trees best, Scatterbrained.

Thursday, January 21, 2010


Yesterday we hunkered for an entire day of rain and snow. We passed the time lurking in a coffee shop, chilling in the Motherload, and bowling (Goldie Locks crushed and Lina bested me in our second round). The two previous days we did managed to climb a few hours in the morning in heinous wind and sub-par stick. Fortunately the worst of weather has passed. Today might provide a window and tomorrow will be our first full day of climbing in over a week. Can't wait.

Here's a few pics from J-Tree thus far.

Peter on The Chube

Peter learns to hate J-Tree on A Street Car Named Desire (awesome boulder problem btw)

Peter on one of J-Tree's best, Chili Sauce. He got painfully close and will go back for the send.

Chili Sauce

Lina braving the wind

Warming up

Monday, January 18, 2010

Malibu bouldering and the arrival of Goldie Locks

Goldie Locks (aka Peter) arrived in LAX 16 hours late after a heinous trip from Sweden. Unfortunately he brought Swedish weather with him as the forecast for the entire western United States turned to crap once he touched down. Obsessively checking the a multitude of weather sites and praying to any deity we thought might take pity on our poor souls was of little hekp as nothing could stop the trifecta of storms destined to dismantle our week of climbing.

Bishop was definitely out as the predicted snow is sure to shut down the milks so we hung in Malibu for an extra day to use utilize the precious half-day of sun before doom and gloom. The bouldering around Malibu turned out to be fantastic and I feel like an idiot for not discovering this little gem years earlier. There are two different areas about 10 minutes in opposite directions from my grandmother's house. Beautiful settings, good lines and quality rock got me psyched and had me jonesing for another day, especially since our outing was cut short by rain. I'm sure I'll be back.

Right now we are in Joshua Tree National Park since the forecast "only" called for 4 days of rain. J-Tree is becoming the standard last ditch effort to climb when bad weather slams California (remember last year Martin?). The last two mornings actually proved climbable and despite the fact that most of the rock is choss I think I'm starting to like the area (maybe it's a personal defense mechanism to keep myself from drowning in depression). There will be an update from J-Tree soon as we are now hold up in a coffee shop while snow gathers outside. Unfortunately our praying hasn't payed off as our best hopes of climbing remains Chossua Tree.

Hear are some pics from the bouldering around Malibu. The first 3 are from Purple Stone and the last 4 are from the Malibu Tunnel Boulders

Goldie Locks rejoicing that he is no longer in Sweden

A super cool arete

Lina warming up

A sweet pocket problem

Goldie Locks hopes to avoid taking a swim

Sweet arete

Lina in a new shirt and new shoes

Friday, January 15, 2010

And now a word from our sponsors....

Lina and I went to visit the good people at Evolv the other day. I've been wearing their kicks years ago after making the switch from FiveTen and became a "team member" soon thereafter. I love their shoes so naturally I was excited to try out some of the newer models.
We met up with my friend Buck to chew the fat and show Lina where the magic happenes. After lunch and a tour of the facilities we got hooked up with some new kicks. Psyched to get back to Bishop and break in the new shoes.

Where the magic happens

Heaps of shoes

Hammie samples the new Talons

Hammie approves while Buck (the minister of culture) rules over his domain

Tuesday, January 12, 2010

The Milks

After a week in Bishop we are back down in Malibu for my grandmother's 89th birthday. It's nice to hang with the family for a spell and recoup from our reintroduction to climbing.
The first week in Bishop was a bit frustrating as sickness and general weakness seemed the common theme. Despite my sporadic fits of whining the first week still comes off as a success as both Lina and I did show signs that we'll be back in form relatively soon.
Most of our efforts were focused on repeating things to gauge how far we have fallen but I still managed to do a few new things in the volcanic areas and I somehow grappled my way up Stained Glass in the Buttermilks. Stained Glass had always alluded me despite significant effort and donated skin on previous trips and it is a relief to finally have done this beauty.

Here's a few pics from the Milks

Greg runs a lap on Stained Glass

Lina tries to emerge from the Womb

Jenny on Pope's Prow

Jason on a pre-send attempt of the Mandala

Thursday, January 7, 2010

The Motherload

The Motherload is an '89 Ford Econoline that was converted to a camper. It can be a little crowded at times but it has all the amenities we need and the headroom is wonderful. It's perfect for our little family. Our only issue is that this beast tends to be hungry. It's only a 6 cylinder so I thought we'd get 16ish miles-per-gallon but it actually clocks in around 12. I guess that's the price you pay for comfort. And of course gas prices are laughably low compared to Sweden. GBA.

The Load

Home sweet home

Little Chris swings by for a visit

Friendly Faces

Some of the good folks in Bishop.

Upside down Hammie

Greg looking swoll

My big sis

Chris struts his stuff

Jenny shows up Jason

Wednesday, January 6, 2010


We made it to Bishop! The weather is fantastic and there are heaps of friends hanging out. We're still trying to dial in living in the van with Hammie but it's getting better every day. On the climbing front both Lina and I are feeling weak from rotting in Sweden the last couple of months and I'm nursing a cold. Despite the excuses I'm sure we'll be back in form in no time. Other folks are climbing strong and recent highlights include Prairie cruising the Hulk, Jenny rocking the Iron Man Traverse and Jason shaking his way up the Mandala (pretty impressive actually). Hopefully Lina and I will be able to jump on the sending train. Plenty more to come.

Brooke focuses on Mr Witty

Lina somehow trumps Chris in the bronze department

Prairie commits a fashion crime while sending the Hulk

Jenny cruising Mr Witty

Sunday, January 3, 2010

Sunshine and The Motherload

Since arriving in the States we've been taking it easy and enjoying the sunshine. It only took 3 days in the USA to equal the amount of sunshine I've had the previous two months in Sweden and the forecast calls for more of the same. Ahhhhhh, the good life.

We've been hanging in Malibu with family and moving into our new home, a '89 Ford camper van we are currently calling "the Motherload". We managed to get out climbing for a couple hours at Stoney Point and explored some other boulders we'll sample next time we're in the 'bu. As for now we head toward the main event as we pack into the Motherload and head to Bishop. Let the grappling begin.

Prairie at gripping choss at Stoney Point

Peter with good hair on Leaping Lizard

Prairie seeking friction in the 16 degree Celsius weather