Wrist Rocket (aka Triple Threat Arete): Little Cottonwoods Best Problem?

Wrist Rocket is an amazing climb in Little Cottonwood that is a contender for best in the canyon.  I was fortunate enough to stumble upon a crew there as it does require a few pads and/or a solid spot. Also a big thanks to my buddy Kyle for prepping the top and spraying me down with beta.  

It's also worth noting that the name of the problem can cause some confusion as it also goes by the name Triple Threat Arete.   I'm not actually sure which name is "correct" but it is a great problem regardless.

Ben pulling on to the start of Wrist Rocket

The start of the problem is straight forward fat-boy climbing with big moves to big holds and lots of foot cutting.

Ben eyeing the last dyno before entering the crux lip encounter

Here Kyle and Ben attempt one method to do the crux that uses a small crimp to the right and standing up.  I prefer the alternative of matching the arete and doing a balancey mantel.  When your foot is on the lip the hard climbing is done but you still need to keep it together for 15 feet of slab climbing.

Loving the Granite of Little Cottonwood Canyon

I've arrived back in England so now I've got some time to do some retro-posts from my time in the States.  I'll start out with some pictures from Utah's beloved Little Cottonwood Canyon.  Hope you enjoy.......

Little Cottonwood Canyon seems to be one of those areas you either love or hate (for the record I lean heavily towards loving it).  This boulder strewn canyon is located just 20 minutes from downtown Salt Lake City and is a huge selling point for climbers that move to the city.  Regardless of whether or not you think LCC is destination worthy, there is no denying that is would be a phenomenal place to have as your local haunt.  

Little Cottonwood of course refers to the entire canyon but the bouldering is actually quite varied depending on which of the many sectors you visit.  The entrance to the canyon provides climbing at lower elevation for the colder/snowy months and the alpine areas high up provide a respite from the sweltering summer months.  You can even optimize temps by choosing either the sunny or shady side of the canyon and if you really want to get nerdy you can select you area by the rock itself as the granite can vary between areas.  

The climbing itself tends to cater to more technical climbers and it helps to be good at mantling as crux lip encounters are common and many a strong gym-rat have left the area with their egos slightly bruised (this also might explain why some folks don't like the area).  That said, the bouldering is pretty extensive so I'm sure you can find something to fit you style....... 

Here are some photos

Located at the Secret Garden sector, Copperhead is a crimpy test-piece on one of Little Cottonwood's best boulders.  It essentially boils down to bearing down on the sharp crimp Ann is reaching for in the picture.  I actually never thought I'd do this problem but having done all the other straight-ups I figured I'd give it a shot and miraculously found myself on the top.  Sometimes I surprise myself.  

Elizabeth stares down the crux of Lance's Dihedral.  This problem is on the same boulder as Copperhead and is not to be missed if visiting the area.

Dain give St Nicholas a raspberry.  Also at the Secret Garden this problem comes highly recommended and is one of the first problems I'll go back to when visiting the area.  Unfortunately I don't have a photo that shows the problem better so you'll have to settle for Dain looking swoll.  

The Round Room is a hidden gem that is worth seeking out.  This gentle scoop requires some technique to make the use of non-holds and is fun for the whole family......unless you are short, in which case you'll find yourself reduced to tears.

Another angle of Kyle on The Round Room just reaching for the crux move.

Bronson Arete at the Riverside area is one of my favorites.  In this shot Noki sets up for the big move out right, which he was just able to span. 

Austin on Bronson Arete

Also at the Riverside area is Alzheimers.  There are two solutions to the crux final move and Carrie opts for the heel-hook right hand up method instead of the deadpoint/dyno with the left hand.  Both options are hard and it's just a matter of what fits you better.

One of my favorite problems from this trip was the tricky Gerbils.  While it might not look like much this problem packs a considerable amount of climbing into its two moves and should be a rite of passage for folks hoping to master the subtleties of Little Cottonwood.  Tommy trying to find balance for the reach to the lip.

Just to the right of Gerbils is Duct Tape.  It is also a two move problem but of a very different style from Gerbils.  You do get to use this amazing sloper and hope it provides enough purchase to do the dyno crux.

Little Cottonwood Canyon Video

Here's a little video from a snowy session in LCC a few months ago.


Three Problems at the Secret Garden: Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Chasing Sun

After dropping Lina off at the airport in Salt Lake City and finishing work Hammie and I headed to St George.  Dad-camp is in full swing and in the next couple weeks we'll really get amongst it.

Our time in SLC was great as I got to shack up with a couple of my favorite people (thanks Hannah and Dain!) but I was ready to leave for warmer climates and dry stone.  Hammie and I will be spending the first leg of dad-camp around St George and due to the shear amount of rock I bet we won't be ready to leave for awhile.

Salt Lake City the day we rolled out.  It only took 20 minutes to escape the parking spot.

 Hodge making the most of a snowy day.

The scene outside St George.  Let the climbing commence