10 Best Boulder Problems in Dartmoor: 7a and up

Considering the amount of rock and natural beauty of Dartmoor National Park the bouldering here has a less than shining reputation and I find myself often defending the place I've grown to love.  To be totally fair to the haters, the large grained granite of the Moor is pretty sharp and doesn't tend to make for the best lines but you have to remember that Dartmoor is massive and can't be judged by only visiting a couple areas.  I imagine most of the naysayers only checked out a few standard crags (Bonehill?) and left with their judgement clouded by smashed egos and bleeding tips.  Dartmoor is so much more than just Bonehill and if you actually know where to look there are plenty of offerings that will appease even the most discerning boulderers.

If you're  coming to Dartmoor for a quick visit then sifting through the chaff can be the crux of the trip as going to the "wrong" place can squander most of a day.  It is with this in mind that I decided to put together list of Dartmoor's best problems above 7a so a visiting climber can tick/try the gems without the painstaking commitment of exploring themselves.

I've put lots of consideration into this list and while I consulted other locals to ensure I didn't overlook something I ultimately draw from my own "expertise" to determine which problems make the cut.  So why should you listen to a yankee that only moved to England two years ago regarding Dartmoor's best problems?  Well, I reckon I may be the person that has seen and done more 7th grade problems in Dartmoor than anyone else (I really do think this is the case, especially at the higher end).  This is due to having the ridiculous luxury of being a stay-at-home dad (thanks to my wonderful wife Lina for making this possible) and my obsession with seeing everything firsthand.  In my short time here I have put in lots of legwork so if there is a tor on a map, rock visible from satellite photos, or an area listed on UKclimbing chances are I've been there and climbed on the most notable problems (yes, there are still a few places I haven't seen/climbed but I've still got time).  My explorations have also led me to "discover" plenty of new areas and cherry pick the best lines (at this point I've establish over 40 problems around Dartmoor with the majority likely being in the 7th grade).  I also fancy myself a discerning boulderer and feel my extensive travels and 15 years experience make me a good candidate for judging boulder problem quality.  That said, climbing is pretty subjective and ego driven and I reckon some folks will totally disagree with this list.  Anyways, I'll stop stroking my own ego and give you the list.  Without further ado here are the best problems in Dartmoor (7a and up)...........


Devon Sent, Bovey Woods:  I think this is hands down the best boulder problem in Dartmoor and the only problem here I feel comfortable calling "world-class".  It comes close to ticking all the boxes as it's a great line that follows awesome "veins" up a gently overhanging face.  It's the perfect height (not quite highball but tall enough to make you think) with pleasing technical movement that gets progressively harder.  The setting isn't necessarily anything special but an individual line up the middle of a boulder in an open forest isn't anything to scoff at either.  If you are visiting the area and have to choose one boulder problem I'd recommend this one.  I will say that you should be prepared to lose some skin as the crimps on Devon Sent are sharp, but that is pretty much par for the course with Dartmoor granite.

Me on the Southwest's best problem

Tropic Thunder, Red Dragon Ridge:  Dartmoor isn't known for its steep climbing but if you like getting horizontal Tropic Thunder is the problem for you.  An independent  line that tackles the prow of an overhanging visor has awesome moves on good rock. Tropic Thunder also makes use of a couple of the rare xenoliths that occasionally appear in Dartmoor granite and is perhaps my finest addition to Dartmoor bouldering.  Initiall I was wary about including my own first-ascents on the list but there are a few that seem to clearly belong.  I also don't think this rig has yet to see a second ascent.

Holding the massive swing (crux) on Tropic Thunder

Yankee Doodle Dandy, Lustleigh:  Apparently this line has been know about for many years and was referred to as "the project boulder".  Certainly one of the cleaner lines around, Yankee Doodle Dandy had just enough holds to make it possible and ends in the most gratifying way ever, with a spicy double dyno to the lip. When I first stumbled across this thing I was told it was a much sot after project but I can't imagine many climbers had actually put much effort in as it didn't end up being overly difficult.  This is another of my first-ascents that seemed to clearly deserve to be on the list.

Yankee Doodle Dandy

Easdon Arete, Easdon:  The Easdon area is very small with only a few problems but Easdon Arete makes this area worth a visit.  A clean line (got to love aretes) with several sequences to get to the top depending on your height and strength.  I'd also highly recommend Easdon Crack on the same boulder that will likely make the list for best under 7a.

Paul on Easdon Arete

Pe'ahi, Bonehill:  Pe'ahi is located on the Wave Wall at Bonehill and climbs straight out the middle of the feature that aptly gives the wall its name.  I was initially reluctant to include anything from this wall because while it is an impressive feature (and ground zero for hard Dartmoor bouldering) it suffers from an overabundance of variations.  If one was to draw all the established starts/exits/traverses on a topo of the wall it would look more like my 2 year old was left unattended with a sharpie then any kind of coherent climbing information.  That said, I shouldn't let my personal aversion to variations/clutter take away from one of Dartmoor's premier walls and I should say that most of the variations are "obvious" in that they follow clear features and don't eliminate anything.  So if there is one line to do on the Wave Wall it is the one that navigates straight up the middle of the wave from sitting and that is Pe'ahi.  The climbing is pretty straight forward and enjoyable but I found it particularly sharp and condition dependent.  Fortunately it is located a stone's throw from the parking and surrounded by plenty of other climbing.  Pe'ahi is also the hardest problem on this list but without any stopper moves it's a very accessible power-endurance problem.

Cailean on Pe'ahi

Creamtime, Lustleigh:  This sweet bulge has awesome holds and great moves on some of the better rock in Dartmoor.  Great problem.

Mikey on Creamtime

Schmogon, Holwell Tor:  This one doesn't get much traffic as Holwell Tor is a little off the standard circuit which is a shame because it's a good one.  Schmogon follow an arete from sitting and while the crux is low the technical upper section might have some pucker factor.

Javu, Lustleigh: The only problem on the list I haven't done (or even tried) but I've stood underneath and can attest to the impressiveness of the line.  I guess this technically is a route since it gets an E-grad but could easily be bouldered with enough pads.  There isn't actually any protection so I guess you could say it has always been bouldered anyways.  It's at Lustleigh and if anyone is keen I'd love to get on it but don't fancy doing it solo.

Nether Edge, Bovey Woods:  It's easy to see the appeal of Nether Edge as it is an impressive line.  This tall, blunt arete has progressively harder moves and is notorious for spitting off capable climbers.  It is a bit sharp even by Dartmoor standards but the line supersedes the pain factor and Nether Edge makes the list.  It is also conveniently located next to Devon Sent if you want to tick two of the best in a session.

Ian on Nether Edge

Cowboy Butcher/Butcher Baker, Lustleigh:  This problem barely makes the 7a threshold but is a worthy tick regardless of which side of the grade you think it falls on.  A steep face with big moves and two exits (I prefer the direct). 

Josh on Butcher Baker (direct finish)

So there is my top ten.  A few of the problems should easily make everyone's list but it became increasing difficult towards the end to decide which problems to leave off.  Because of that difficulty I figured I'd give some honorable mentions that very easily could have made the list.  So maybe this is a top 20ish list.......   

All the Wray Jose, Wray Cleave
Arkem, Bonehill
Slotted Wall, Bovey Woods
Hung Like a Chimp, Lustleigh
Dancing Queen/Super Trooper, Saddle Tor
Jay-Z, East Side Boulders
Jungle VIP, Lakeside Boulders
Famous Grouse, Bell Tor
Allan Smith, Hound Tor
Flying Visit, Honey Bag Tor
Jungle Book, Bovey Woods
Over the Rainbow, Bovey Woods


There are also a few problems that should have been included but didn't because they are access sensitive.  Also, if there is a problem I overlooked or something that doesn't belong make a case and maybe I'll edit the post (Javu stays on the list....).

Get out there and enjoy Dartmoor.

One of Dartmoor's Best Boulder Problems: Tropic Thunder

I've been racking up a fair number of first ascents here in England but I recently establish my best yet.  Tropic Thunder is a real gem of Dartmoor bouldering and good enough that it could be classic anywhere in the world.  In my opinion Tropic Thunder is second only to Devon Sent in the Dartmoor area but folks should get out and decide for themselves. 

Tropic Thunder climbs a prow/arete out the middle of a visor.  I would have brushed up this problem had I stumbled upon it anywhere.

A rarity for Dartmoor, Tropic Thunder it very steep and utilizes an array of heels and toe-hooks.

Here is Mikey sticking the first move.

Tropic Thunder also makes use of a couple xenoliths that are very uncommon around Dartmoor.  Here is Tom trying to make use of a toe-hook on one of the xenoliths.  

The problems climbs extremely well and it took two days to work out all the little subtleties.  The crux to Tropic Thunder was figuring out what to do once you got your hands on the slopey lip while your feet are way under the roof.  I found 3 different sequences but in the end it was the one that required doing a little bump and holding a massive swing that proved successful.  It's always nice when everything comes together.....

If you want to check out Tropic Thunder it is pretty easy to find as it is located on the slope along the north side of Beadon Brook.  Park off Beadon Lane just where it crosses the brook and either follow the brook for a bit until you see rock and scrabble up the slope or take the higher path (easier) and drop down when you see rock.  This area has a bit of rock with roughly 20 established problems and more potential if you're willing to brush.  Enjoy

Finding Worthy Rocks: First Ascents in Dartmoor National Park

As my friends are well aware, I was not too psyched about the move to Southwestern England.  I generally judge an area by the quality, quantity and potential of the local climbing and it was safe to say that Exeter is a downgrade in every way from my home in Gothenburg.  Fortunately I quickly stopped whining about what I left behind and started exploring my new home and realized there is a decent amount of rock to be found at my "local" area of Dartmoor National Park.  

Those that know me are aware that I like the process of searching for boulders almost as much as I like climbing them, and since everything in Dartmoor was new I had plenty to keep me busy.  I went to work systematically visiting every area, ticking the local classics and searching for anything that might have been overlooked.  Using various online resources, local beta, satellite images and detailed maps I started trekking to every area that had even the remotest chance of having climbable rock, and while most of these missions were met with disappointment I'd occasionally stumble upon something worthy.  

Well, the productive outings have started to add up and not only have I collected quite a few projects but I've also added 15 new problems with some of them being among the best in Dartmoor.  So here are a few pictures of some of the new problems and there is certainly more to come.  I have come close to exhausting the areas closest to home but there is still plenty on the far side of the moor.  

The majority of climbing in Dartmoor is on rocky outcroppings called "tors" like Greater Rocks (foreground) and Hound Tor (background).  While all of these tors have been climbed at for years (they are hard to miss) there are some obvious problems that have been overlooked.  

One such overlooked problem is at Easdon Rocks and only two meters from the classic Easdon Arete.  It goes from a sit using a "nonhold" under the roof and then navigating the slopey lip/arete to the top.  I called this one Overshadowed.

   

While the potential up on the open moor is limited there are several wooded areas with clusters of boulders hidden in the trees.  I've had the good fortune to meet some kindred spirits that have been exploring the woods for years and they gave me a tour, saving countless hours on my part.  Thanks to Tom Rainbow for showing me around and pointing me toward this project, which I called Lazy Colon.

A little arete I found hiding in the woods and brushed up.  I do try to seek out the best stuff but not every fa I do is going to be an area classic.  Sometimes you got to find the "best of whats left" and I can say being in England is teaching me to make do with what I have.

 Lustleigh Cleave is a large wooded area that has the most potential of the Dartmoor areas and where roughly half my fa's are, including this gem.  Over the Mountain is one of the most enjoyable and surprising new problems as it started as a nice option for a day out with my sun and turned into a minor obsession.  It took me two days to just figure out the beta and I hauled my son back roughly 8 times before putting it together.  The climbing is pretty unique for Dartmoor and packs a lot of climbing into a small space.

Here's a shot of the crux underbelly of Over the Mountain

Here's another new problem in Lustleigh.  I brushed this one up while supporting a friend on an adjacent problem and Mikey and I sent it one after the other.  Another problem worth doing if in the area.  Hey Mikey, what did you call this one?

Perhaps the best problem I've put up in Dartmoor is also in Lustleigh and climbs the face of "the project boulder".  Yankee Doodle Dandy is essentially just three moves with the last one being a big dyno.  I did do this one by myself but it's not recommended as pads and spotters will prove helpful.

It's always nice to visit areas you've marked on your map and find someone has done most of the work of cleaning the boulders.  I later found out who had developed this little area and informed that I was the first to do this little dandy.  I called it The Gift and want to thank Dave Henderson for cleaning it up.

Another sweet problem Dave had cleaned up was this slopey traverse he called Snaresbrook Snake-charmer .  He started from a jug in the middle and I added an extension that sit-starts all the way left.

This one is actually still a project (one of many) but I've figured out all the moves and at some point I'll get back to it.........

Bouldering in Cornwall

When planning a trip to Cornwall it was difficult figuring out where to climb.  Like Devon, Cornwall's climbing areas tend to be small and spread out and this is less than ideal for our little family.  While the bouldering in Cornwall seems to cater most to a motivated climber hoping to cherry-pick there seem to be a few "larger" areas you could spend a day with a family.

I of course had consulted some friends and on-line sources before the trip and one boulder in particular stuck out, The Dreamboat Boulder.  While not to be miss the Dreamboat Boulder has some complications as it is all by itself with a not so family friendly approach, and to top it all off you need to time your visit with the tides and it can still be wet.  I had seen some pictures of this boulder and despite the difficulties I stubbornly drug my family down a treacherous slope in hopes of doing one of the best problems in Cornwall.

Unfortunately due to the boulder being in the shade and a lack of wind the Dreamboat boulder was rather damp.  While I managed to get the holds "dryish" and do a couple other problems, the main line in the middle proved elusive.  In this picture I'm gearing up for the crux move of Wonderland, which I'd love to go back too.

Here is another angle on Wonderland.  That left crimp is a bit sharp but that still doesn't take away from the quality of this problem.  It you're going to do some bouldering in Cornwall this boulder is highly recommended,  just not ideal for the family.

While there are plenty of areas in Cornwall that aren't on the coast we only checked out those by the water.  That means timing is everything as twice a day the boulders are soaked by waves and all signs of climbing are washed away.  The bad news is that these areas are notoriously hard to get good conditions and some of the more tucked away problems are almost never dry.  On the flip side, without the tidal bombardment most of the rock would be total choss.  The coastal areas also tend to provide cool features and the skin friendly nature of the climbing is a welcome respite from the sharp granite of the interior.  With this in mind we decided to check out what I've been told is Cornwall's best tidal area, Godrevy.

Regardless of climbing, Godrevy is a sweet spot.  There is a nice long beach and apparently a sweet break as dozens of surfers crowded the water and lounged in a cafe by the parking.  The approach to the climbing is short and easy and a maze-like formations of the rock provided a perfect place to run around with kids.  

Lina climbing a problem in one of the the corridors of the "maze".  Once again there is no chalk to guide you as it is washed away twice a day and keeping your eye on the tide is important as you head down the beach.  I've heard plenty of stories of climbers getting cut-out by the tide with outcomes included waiting for hours, a terrifying choss scramble, or a return the vehicle soaking wet.

Another problem in the "maze".

To be honest I was unimpressed with Godrevy and it has nothing to do with the lack of chalk and most things being damp when we were there.  Don't get me wrong it was a sweet place worth checking out in it's own right but the climbing is very underwhelming.  While the rock may be fun to climb on there are very few natural lines as you tend to just pick a spot on a wall and climb up.  It also didn't help that many of the "classics" were drop-offs.  

Providence was one of the better lines at Godrevy but proved to hard for me despite a great spot from my son.  

A shot of the coast as the tide comes in.  Lots of rock and so few king-lines.

I did try one problem in Cornwall that wasn't effected by tides.  The Weapon is a single problem located off the coastal path that is easy to fit into the schedule as you don't need to run from the waves.  Cool compression moves lead to a committing top-out.

The Weapon.  In the end I was too scared to commit of the final move but if I ever make it back to Cornwall this one will get another visit.

Some photos from Cornwall

Apologies for the lack of action on the blog.  My computer decided to tank on me and everything else seems to be keeping me busy.  Such is life.

Anyway, just in case anyone still follows this blog and to get things up and rolling again I'll post some pictures from a recent trip we took down to Cornwall.  Hope you enjoy.

The coastline for much of Cornwall is pretty dramatic as rugged walls rise abruptly from the sea.  The battering of waves and fluctuations in tide has created some pretty awesome formations and plenty to explore.

While Cornwall's natural beauty attracts plenty of tourists there is no shortage of cool historical spots to check out, like Restormel Castle. 

The remnants of Cornwall's ancient tin mining industry are hard to miss as many old smokestacks remain.  It's also good to know that plenty of mineshafts are also left behind so be careful when exploring the ruins.

There is also no shortage of lighthouses along the Cornish coast.  I reckon a good number of seamen are extremely glad for this.

A Cornish sunset.

I'll post a bit about the climbing we did in Cornwall in the next couple days.......

Devon Sent: The Best Problem in Dartmoor?

I realize a post from England is long overdue as we've been here since March and while I've posted on Instagram I haven't put anything on the blog.  I've really got no excuses but until I put together something more substantial together this little video of two problems from my local area will have to do............

Before moving to England I saw a picture of Devon Sent and immediately knew there would be at least one problem in the area worth doing.  The line is striking as a pair of "veins" cut through the middle of a gently overhanging granite face and provide just enough holds to get to the top.  Finding a sequence proved the crux for me as the moves are technical and skin generally limits the number of attempts.  In the end I put a rope on to figure out the moves and later went back with my two kids in tow for the send.  It was well worth the effort and is still the best problem I've done in Dartmoor.

Now for those that find Devon Sent a little too much, Nether Edge is a sweet tick in it's own right as it tackles the prow on the same boulder.  It also serves as a nice consolation prize should you get bouted by Devon Sent.  Hope you enjoy the video.

The opening move of Devon Sent.  Wish there were more problems like this in Dartmoor

North Wales: Llanbris and Ogwen Valley

When describing an area as a "destination" there are some considerations.  Yosemite and Fontainebleau are climbing destinations for climbers all over the world while Monster Island and Hönö might serve as a "weekend destination" (If you don't know where those are you probably don't live very close).  Well, one of the primary perks of the relocation to England is having an abundance of new weekend destinations to explore and a few weekends ago we decided to tick one off the list with a visit to North Wales.

North Wales is a large region with lots of rock and a rich climbing history.  One of the trickiest parts of planning the trip was filtering through the spray and deciding which areas to check out.  We opted for the Llanberis and Ogwen Valleys which are peppered with small areas, some of which are heavily trafficked.  So here is my take on what I saw.....

The mountainous region of Snowdonia National Park attracts over 6 million visitor annually and it seems that climbers make up a noticeable percentage as there were plenty around.  We of course went for the bouldering which is fairly extensive but pretty spread out.  To be honest I was expecting more as I'd have a hard time spending a whole day at even the largest areas and it seems you'd have to move around quite a bit to fill your days.  It seems to cater to cherry picking which is less than optimal when you're got two small kids.

The rock itself (rhyolite and/or a similar igneous rock) is very climbable and can lend itself to some steep climbing but in general it is sharp and ugly.  That said, there are some beautiful lines and some friendly rock if you know where to look and/or are willing to search.

While overall I was less-than-impressed with the bouldering I was only there 3 days and had kids in-tow.  North Wales might not be a bouldering mecca but if it's only a few hours away it's certainly worth a visit or two.  And despite my less than glowing review I am more than willing to go back for a long weekend for a bit more cherry picking.

Here are some photos

Lina bouldering at one of the largest and most popular area in Llanberis .  The amount of traffic probably has a lot to do with the 30 second approach as the rock here was sharp and ugly.  On the plus side it was pretty solid.

Jerry's Roof was the one problem everyone said I should try.  With a "no commitment" approach it is certainly worth checking out and while it might not be much to look at it climbs really well and the rock is pretty friendly on the skin.   

If you're not into the climbing you can always just appreciate the area for it's scenery. 

Are there any boulders down there?

A pretty sweet problem within eye-site of the road

Lina on a sweet problem on the backside of the Caseg boulder.  This lone boulder was my favorite of the trip as it had a nice setting, good rock and good lines all around it.  I wish there where more boulders like this one.

Chris fires The Gimp on the Caseg boulder.

The Sheep Pen in the Ogwen Valley had a few gems on good rock and was well worth the steep 15 minute hike.  The Pinch my favorite problem there and one of the the most photogenic I saw the entire trip.  Fun climbing and a nice setting.

North Wales Bouldering Video

Here is a little video from one of our days in North Wales.  I'll post a little write-up from the trip in a couple days.  Until then.......


Ogwen Valley Bouldering: North Wales from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.