Spång in Bohuslan

Anders Spång is my hero. Not only has he single handedly discovered the lion's share of bouldering in Bohuslan but he's done it with two kids. Spång's ability to get outside more than most is a testament to his motivation and the wonderfulness of his wife Mari (Spång claims he has the best wife ever. Mari is pretty cool but I beg to differ). In a few years I hope to be in the same position as Spång, living in Bohuslan with two kids and the best wife ever (that would be Lina).

A man after my own heart, Spång has been systematically exploring the vast granite bouldering possibilities in Bohuslan and has to tolerate my incessant pleading to show me his prize crop of boulders. Fortunately Spång is a giving soul and has taken me to more than a few gems. It is always nice to return the favor so you can imagine what a pleasure it was when I was able to show Spång some boulders in his own backyard.

The boulders had been a tip from Kalle and when Spång and I arrived we couldn't help but wonder how this place had gone under the radar for so long. Just goes to show the possibilities of Bohuslan. We climbed one sweet warm-up and then got spanked on the two best lines there, blaming our failure on the temps and our short stature. We'll be back on a colder day after stretching.

Anders Spång, the man, the myth, the legend

One of Spång's sweet finds

The new project that seems to hate short people

Waiting for a cooler day to go back to this one

Stockholmites invade Bohuslan

Some Stockholmites (Jon, Katrin, Fredrik, and Jocke) where out west for the weekend. I took them to Hogen for an enjoyable day and many of the classics saw repeats. The climbing highlight was a new sequence on Little Lar's Hockeyljumskar that made it possible for mere mortals but the real send of the day was a delicious pumpkin pie whipped up by Markus that evening. Seriously, the pie was sweet.
On Sunday the Stockholm crew headed off to Boxvik and Spång played tour guide to Lina, Markus, Hammie and I at Smögen. Nice block by the sea. It was nice to get some climbing over the weekend as the weather gods decided to become anti-climbing late on Sunday and into the foreseeable future. Sweden does have it's downsides.
Thanks to all for the sweet weekend.

Spång warms up on one of the west coasts best

Jon enters the crux of Hockeyljumskar

Spång using the new beta

Sticking the crux, only to fall off the top. Heartbreaking

Hogen's best remaining project?

Smögen