New Problem at Kullavik: Chicken Game

Nearly every time I've gone to Kullavik over the last few years I've check out a beautiful arete and thought "I need to try this thing".  Unfortunately it wasn't so simple as a jagged landing required several pads and I couldn't find anyone keen on tackling this highball with me.  Well last week that all changed as Tumle, Isak, Johan and myself assembled some pads and went to work.  It took figuring out beta and mustering some courage but in the end Johan and I sent in successive burns and Chicken Game was born.  This problem is well worth rallying the necessary pads and one of Kullavik's best.  It also remains shaded all day and provides a respite on warm summer days. 

Johan scopes the top-out while Tumle and Isak arrange pads

Johan focuses on the task at hand

Gearing up for the crux and hoping Tumle knows how to spot.  Tumle is straddling a large hole which isn't actually as dangerous as it looks but wears heavy on the mind when dead-pointing to a small crimp. 

Johan post crux and hoping for and easy topout on the FA

Little Erik crushes my projects and shatters my ego

Little Erik was in town this weekend and while the weather was far from ideal the rock at Kullavik was dry enough to justify climbing. We put him on the project just left of "Let's go Bowling" which he promptly sent in a few goes, retaining the working name of "F**k it Dude". I had previous spent a couple days trying to do this problem and I continued my struggle as Erik casually repeated it while everyone commented on what I was doing wrong. Damn kids and their strong fingers. I swear the problem is difficult but you wouldn't know it watching Erik. The other "old"men and me decided we needed to break his fingers to put us all on a level playing field but then we'd have no excuses when he continued to out climb us.

After "F**k it Dude" Erik moved on to the super project on the same wall and did extremely well before blowing a hole in his tip. Then on to the Nihilist where the old men got some redemption. Seems Erik's youthful exuberance and steely fingers couldn't help him with this one as the wilyness required is a few years beyond his grasp. Kids these days.

Congrats to Erik for walking my projects, keeping my ego in check, and making me feel like an old man.

"When I was your age crashpads where made of broken glass and chalk didn't exist"

Sticking the crux of "F**k it Dude"

The high and beautiful project

The Nihilist

Projects

The list of problems I'd still like to do is constantly growing and with the summer heat keeping the friction to a minimum it seems I'll have to wait until it cools down. Summer is usually the time for exploring and getting mileage but this summer is a bit different as the ultimate project of having a kid has consumed much of my time and energy. The arrival of Hammerstryke will certainly curtail climbing time for a bit but some things are more important.

Hopefully Hammie will be here any day as we are quickly approaching the somewhat arbitrary due date of July 17th. While we wait, here's a few of the problems I'll be dreaming about in between changing diapers and cleaning up baby vomit.

Undone slopey arete

Molndal Lighting. Undone.

Undone roof.

King Ding-a-ling. Henrik has done the stand.

The Cathedral Project. Impossible?

Abdominator. Undone

F**k it Dude. Undone.