Golf Wall Video

Here is a little video of three of the problems I put up south of Gothenburg at the Golf Wall.  Hope you enjoy.



Swedish Bouldering: The Golf Wall from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Double Boogy and Back Swing

I recently put up two new problems near the Golf Wall just south of Gothenburg.  The area now holds about a half dozen difficult(ish) problems along with some easier problems and warm-ups.
 
Double Boogy is one of the new problems I put up and required a couple days to suss out and complete.  It climbs out a steep face using an awesome sloper and some trickery before some big moves at the top.  I needed a colder day and some try-hard to send this one.

The other problem is a fun roof I'm calling Back Swing that uses some cool holds and requires some body tension.

Here are a couple pictures.

 Milking the sloper on Double Boogy and trying to find balance to reach the crimp/pinch

 Gearing for the third bump on the arete to gain a good hold.  This is the last "hard" move.

Back Swing.  Kind of turdy but fun none-the-less

The Golf Wall

A couple months ago I was shown a low-resolution picture of an overhanging wall situated in an open beech forest with a perfect landing.  The picture was very enticing and I eventually found a couple friends willing to check it out one afternoon.  I was not disappointed by what I found.

The wall is actually situated on a golf course and while there is no danger of being hit by a stray ball there is a constant barrage of questions from golfers strolling by.  I reckon questions will become less frequent as the regular golfers become accustomed to seeing climbers  as the "Golf Wall" holds a couple gems that are sure to attract climbers.  I've now spent two afternoons at the wall and while I've done the two lines that where most enticing to me there are a couple more I'm keen to brush up.  The wall currently has 7 established climbs and the surrounding area offers plenty more.

 One of the steeper problems on the left side of the wall took the entire 3 hours of daylight my first afternoon.  In the end I was able to unlock the beta and stick the crux dyno in fading light.  I dubbed the problem Par for the Course.  

 Sticking the sloper before the dyno on Par for the Course.

 Aleksej on the fa of a nice arete on the Golf Wall

One of the main line on the Golf Wall is a highball that follows a thin crack.  From the ground it looks pretty easy but when you start climbing you realize the holds are worse than they look and moves get progressively harder.  At the end of my second afternoon I was able muster some courage and scrape over the the top of Tuttifrutti.