Thursday, April 28, 2011

Full Moon

Thought I'd share this shot though I'm not sure how much it'll be appreciated. 

Lina has an little surprise awaiting her at the top.  Who is that guy anyways?

Monday, April 25, 2011

Bishop Bouldering: Drifter Classics

Another video from this winter.  This one captures the three standard classics on perhaps the most popular/famous rock in Bishop, the Drifter Boulder.  Hope you enjoy.

Friday, April 22, 2011


One of the new problems on Tjörn I dubbed Puddles.  The name came about after blood pooled up in one of the first holds.  The flapper gushing blood was actually from a different problem but it just wouldn't stop bleeding.  Anyways, I had tried this problem for a couple days and the carnage made the FA that much sweeter.

Blood drops on the pad

Puddles of blood

The culprit

Peter on earlier attempts

Per-Ola grabs the small intermediate crimp

Wednesday, April 20, 2011


Awhile back Pontus took Hammie and I for a tour of an undeveloped area called Solklinten on the island of Tjörn.  The quantity of rock was impressive but it was the striking lines that made me load up my wire-brushes and go to work the following weekend.  The few days of development that followed yielded a handful of problems with Radar getting most of the attention and several repeats.

Since those initial days the area hasn't seemed to attract anyone as a 15 minute approach and the work required to actually develop the place seem to deter most people.  Fortunately I've been able to take a few folks out recently that seemed pretty psyched on the area (check out Bummel's blog) and every time I go out a couple more problems get sent and/or brushed.  Pretty soon I'm hoping to compile enough good problems to attract the masses, I just hope they bring there walking shoes and wire-brushes.

Here are some pictures of the area, some from the first outings in Sept and Oct and others from more recent.

Kim an area gem called The Ringer

 The view this fall

 The initial session on Radar last Sept

 Chris on the start of Gusher 

 Chris on a slopey top out

Saturday, April 16, 2011

Moby Dick

We will be heading back to Kjugekull over Easter weekend.  It should be crowded but that means lots of pads  to rally to some highball and many of the classics should be padded all day.  Here's a couple pictures of one of Kjuge's best, Moby Dick.

 Chris reaching the little crimp before the crux

A slopey top-out awaits

Wednesday, April 13, 2011

Persons Dyno

Persons Dyno in Kjugekull is one of those problems short people hate.  If you are tall you can just stand up to the lip while those of smaller stature must learn to fly.  

Lina winds up for the dyno while others spectate 
Josefin strikes a pose mid dyno

Lina takes flight

Josefin puts on her war face and gets oh so close

Monday, April 11, 2011

All That Goes Up Must Come Down

You know the month or so of listlessness that follows the finishing of a really good book? Well, Fontainebleau was that book. I didn't want it to end but when it finally did I knew that whatever unfortunate books I picked up next would be disappointing. That meant the land of granite that I love and call home would seem a little bleak for a short while.

So now that I've been back in Sweden for over three weeks I'm starting to feel the "Font Coma" begin to wear off. The first two weekends back did nothing for my psych as Sweden's largest bouldering area seemed like a giant choss-dump and my local projects just weren't as good as I remembered. Fortunately we live roughly an hour away from Bohuslan and this weekend we cruised up and I was reminded that Sweden is amazing. There is nothing like new areas with great lines and a beautiful setting to remind you that you live in a bouldering paradise (but it's still not Font).

Here are a few pictures from one of our first weekends back in Sweden at Kjugekull, Sweden's largest developed bouldering area.

Our psych wasn't helped by the fact that the weather sucked. Here is Chris using the "Swedish technique" to dry some holds.

Chris on Flaming Star

Lina cruising one of Kjuge's best, Mödomsrovet

The problem that will bring me back to Kjugekull, Alla Vill Till Himmelen

Friday, April 8, 2011

Bishop Bouldering Video: Happy Boulders

Another video from the winter.  Hopefully a Font video will emerge in a more timely manner.

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

A Few more from Font

Here are a few more pictures from Fontainebleau.

Luke on the beautiful L'Étrave in J. A. Martin

Le Yaniro in 95.2 was one of the coolest problems I did.  The only time I've used a figure-4 for more than a party trick, and I removed my left shoe (like Luke in the picture) to help un-pretzel myself.   

Lars on Rocher Canon's best problem (in my opinion), La Théorie du Chaos.

Due to exploding elbows and some decree of restraint Luke and Chris actually rested but still found themselves out at the boulders supporting their obsessive friend (that would be me).  They humored me by going back to things after we had packed and got a taste of what Lina has to live with.  Thanks heaps.

Dosage in Buthiers was one that it paid off to drag my friends back too.  Last minute sends are always sweet.

Friday, April 1, 2011

Triplets on the Drifter Boulder

I ran into some a couple super cool guys while I was in Bishop this winter and we decided to all climb on the Drifter Boulder at the same time.