One of the new problems on Tjörn I dubbed Puddles. The name came about after blood pooled up in one of the first holds. The flapper gushing blood was actually from a different problem but it just wouldn't stop bleeding. Anyways, I had tried this problem for a couple days and the carnage made the FA that much sweeter.
Awhile back Pontus took Hammie and I for a tour of an undeveloped area called Solklinten on the island of Tjörn. The quantity of rock was impressive but it was the striking lines that made me load up my wire-brushes and go to work the following weekend. The few days of development that followed yielded a handful of problems with Radar getting most of the attention and several repeats.
Since those initial days the area hasn't seemed to attract anyone as a 15 minute approach and the work required to actually develop the place seem to deter most people. Fortunately I've been able to take a few folks out recently that seemed pretty psyched on the area (check out Bummel's blog) and every time I go out a couple more problems get sent and/or brushed. Pretty soon I'm hoping to compile enough good problems to attract the masses, I just hope they bring there walking shoes and wire-brushes.
Here are some pictures of the area, some from the first outings in Sept and Oct and others from more recent.
We will be heading back to Kjugekull over Easter weekend. It should be crowded but that means lots of pads to rally to some highball and many of the classics should be padded all day. Here's a couple pictures of one of Kjuge's best, Moby Dick.
You know the month or so of listlessness that follows the finishing of a really good book? Well, Fontainebleau was that book. I didn't want it to end but when it finally did I knew that whatever unfortunate books I picked up next would be disappointing. That meant the land of granite that I love and call home would seem a little bleak for a short while.
So now that I've been back in Sweden for over three weeks I'm starting to feel the "Font Coma" begin to wear off. The first two weekends back did nothing for my psych as Sweden's largest bouldering area seemed like a giant choss-dump and my local projects just weren't as good as I remembered. Fortunately we live roughly an hour away from Bohuslan and this weekend we cruised up and I was reminded that Sweden is amazing. There is nothing like new areas with great lines and a beautiful setting to remind you that you live in a bouldering paradise (but it's still not Font).
Here are a few pictures from one of our first weekends back in Sweden at Kjugekull, Sweden's largest developed bouldering area.
Our psych wasn't helped by the fact that the weather sucked. Here is Chris using the "Swedish technique" to dry some holds.
Chris on Flaming Star
Lina cruising one of Kjuge's best, Mödomsrovet
The problem that will bring me back to Kjugekull, Alla Vill Till Himmelen
Le Yaniro in 95.2 was one of the coolest problems I did. The only time I've used a figure-4 for more than a party trick, and I removed my left shoe (like Luke in the picture) to help un-pretzel myself.
Lars on Rocher Canon's best problem (in my opinion), La Théorie du Chaos.
Due to exploding elbows and some decree of restraint Luke and Chris actually rested but still found themselves out at the boulders supporting their obsessive friend (that would be me). They humored me by going back to things after we had packed and got a taste of what Lina has to live with. Thanks heaps.
Dosage in Buthiers was one that it paid off to drag my friends back too. Last minute sends are always sweet.