Thursday, May 17, 2012

A New Season in Solklinten

As the weather warms we will inevitably be spending lots of time at my mother-in-law's summer house on Tjörn, and that means more time at Solkinten.  We were up there a couple weeks ago and I made it out for some exploration and yet again stumbled upon some good stuff.  It's amazing how this area keeps producing quality rock climbs as just when I think I've seen it all something else pops up.  I know I've been talking about trying to put out more information and a possible mini-guide and hopefully that will happen this summer.  The area needs something as the majority of the roughly 130 established boulder problems have been done only by myself and many of the best and most difficult require a little guidance to find.  There is also potential for hundreds of more problems (yes, I said hundreds) and while a doubt a mini-guide will bring many people willing to brush it might help contribute to development.

So until I get my act together people that want to visit the area should feel free to email me for information.  As always I'm eager share whatever beta I can with folks and if possible provide a guided tour, just keep in mind I might drag you to a new sector and hand you a brush.

Here are a couple of the brand-new things I found

This striking slab line proved to be more difficult than anticipated.  What I thought would be a quick stop to establish a great warm-up turned into a two hour ordeal to unlock beta and finally scrape my way to the top.  I called the slab "Wiggle-room" due to a worm-like feature and the tiny margin that separated the many fails from the actual send.

This is a gem of a boulder for moderate climbers.  What is not visible in this picture are 3 cool aretes and a couple face climbs all with perfect landing and just waiting to be done.  I didn't have my ladder or much time the day I found this boulder and the one problem I tried shut me down.  I was unable to properly brush the top or the stand would probably have gone.  While the stand start alone will be a struggle it's the obvious sit-start requiring thuggy power on slopey rails that I'm ampted to get back to.

1 comment:

Per said...

Good to see that you are on it as always Walker. Unfotunately we don't have that pace in Värnamo.