Friday, October 15, 2010

The Ringer

Still getting out a couple times a week. The weather has been perfect and Hammie enjoys bundling up and playing in leaves. A couple noteworthy problems have gone up in the last few days. In Årekärr the cool rail problem yielded to cooler temps and proved to be quite good. Martin and I sent in quick succession but he got the FA so he'll have to come up with the name. (Ideas Martin?)
In Tjörn I stumbled upon an undeniably great problem and after wiping the drool from my mouth we went to work. It proved to be a bit harder than it looked but it still relinquished to my efforts. I'm calling it The Ringer.



Martin on the rail problem in Årekärr

The rail problem


The Ringer

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Pay Dirt

Exploration pays off once again.



Monday, October 11, 2010

Ramsviksland

It was a Bohuslan weekend. Saturday we went to Ramsviksland as folks wanted to try Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie and I wanted to try some things I bushed up awhile back. Unfortunately Hamster Huey resisted a 2nd ascent (although Lars and Daniel were close) and I only managed to collect new projects as nothing new was sent. Psyched to go back as there is heaps of stuff I want to do.

On Sunday I went back to a place in Smögen to try a couple beautiful projects with good temps. I'm pretty sure both the arete and thin face we tried can be done but I'll go ahead and say they are pretty damn hard.

Here's a few pics from Ramsviksland


Peter on Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie


Lars working the beta on Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie


Lina on a cool slab that shut down all comers


A new roof project

Friday, October 8, 2010

Branta Trappan

Took a short trip to Branta Trappan that proved quite productive. Three new quality problems where put up, Notoriskt S.T.O.R, Pengagrön lädersoffa, and Kristallklar. Kalle FAed all three, Geir repeated two and I only scraped up one, siting skin and general weakness as my excuses. Psyched to go back for Pengagrön lädersoffa as it's the best of the three.

Here are a few pics.


Geir on the first move of Pengagrön lädersoffa


Kalle on the FA of Pengagrön lädersoffa


Kalle on Kristallklar


Geir try a cool bulge that remains undone

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Årekärr

Went back to the new place near Årekärr. A few more problems when up as the area is becoming just that, an area. The roof project seems to prefer taller folks as Bummel unlocked a sequence that will be impossible for shorter folk. He'll send next time for sure and I'll be stuck trying short person beta.

Here's a few pics.


Bummel stretching on the roof project


Kim on a new sloper problem


Henrik tops out Rainbow Crack


Bummel protests the sharp crimper on O-face


Bummel enters the slopey crux of Family Marbles

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

A day on Tjörn

On Saturday I returned to a new area on Tjörn to try and finish up a steep project. I had previously worked out beta and figured I'd walk up to it with fresh skin and send. It didn't quite work out that way as I flailed on the sharp crimpers, baffled at my inability to send. Sammy and Klas showed up after about an hour of flailing and Sammy discovered much better beta that paved the way for a quick accent by Per-Ola and himself. I unfortunately was totally gassed, falling off jugs 4 times before my skin finally gave out and blood poured from my index finger. Congrats to Per-Ola for the FA of a great new problem. I'll send for sure next time.

Afterward we went to another boulder and Sammy and I did a cool new arete (I'm calling it Sammy's arete unless Sammy dubs it something else). Later we went to Shelter and after digging out toilet paper that had been packed around the holds (seriously? how hard is it to pack it out) I managed to repeat the problem and put up another one to the right as well. Per-Ola and Sammy where too tired to send. Next time.


Sammy unlocks new beta and paves the way for the sends


Per-Ola on the FA of Radar


Another project


Sammy's Arete


Shelter


A portion of the shit paper left at Shelter

Sunday, October 3, 2010

Ego Slayer

Just like that my chances of sending went from 90% to 0%. Some things just can't be climbed with taped tips.