Monday, May 25, 2009

Jesus Flys to get away from choss

I think we call it "the Ascension" in English but the day Jesus was said to ascend into heaven has a better ring to it when translated from Swedish. Jesus-Flys-to-Heaven Day is a national holiday in Sweden and Lina and I paid our respects by trying to ascend some boulders in Småland.
Since Lina's new physique doesn't allow her to climb the trip was primarily scouting as we cruised around checking out several bouldering areas. Some were disappointing and some were a welcomed surprise.

I'd been wanting to go to Järnforsen for some time and when I rolled into town I was expecting to climb myself to oblivion. Unfortunately I discovered that the rock is generally decomposing choss or glued choss, which is even worse. I spent hours hiking among perfect sized boulders hoping to find one that wasn't about turn to rubble at the touch of a hand. It's a shame that all that rock is wasted and I won't go back unless I have someone to show me around as there was occasionally descent quality rock. I did manage to find and climb one sweet problem as Rythm in itself is worth a stopover.
Rythm. A bad picture of Järnforsen's good problem

I'd seen a picture of a super line at a small area 40 km from Järnforsen and since it didn't look like choss we cruised down. Kyrkstenarna is a little area with good rock. I think the problem I did was called Salvation and it was worth the detour. There seemed some good high stuff still to do.
Salvation from choss.

The bouldering around Järnamo is the exact opposite of Järnforsen. The rock is incredibly good but the boulders were generally runtish. There were a few respectable sized boulders and I'm convinced there is some good stuff to be found. I'd like to go back and see the areas I didn't have time to check out.

One of Värnamo's mini boulders. Sitstart to get more bang for your buck.

The best problem I did. Great line and good height.

Project. Looks sweet. I think it's hard.


Jimmy said...

Damn!! Nice to see that you visited Värnamo! The proj. is awesome and probably very hard!

Johan R said...

Nice that you´ve been in Småland. I agree that the quality in Järnforse is really bad. Did you went to Nybro too?? I have also an new area close to Fågelfors/Högsby that ther is some nice boulders, I haven´t tried the quality that much yet but ther is 2-3 giant boulders that I guess you would love too try. I started to clean the area last christmas and made som problems there. Maybe it is in your interests this summer =) //Johan

Viktor said...

Nice that you discovered our backyard!

Like you say, the "problem" around Värnamo is the generally small/low boulders. On the other hand there´s a lot of them! I´d love to guide you around the other places if you want to come back. Rödjan and Leifsland is definitly worth a visit. And yes, some of the boulders there is higher than 3 meter.....

Send me e-mail on if you decide to visit the area again.

To whom who’s interested, visit

walkerkearney said...

nice to hear from some locals. i didn't make it to nybro but i'd like to and i'd love to head back to the värnamo area and check things out with a local. i'm always down for new rock and i'll definitely take you up on the offers as soon as i can.
thanks heaps

Anonymous said...

Hi W next time give me a call and i will guide u... Järnforsen is probably the worst of areas around as u sad lose rock... but it has some killer problems... there are like 15 places around that u need to se... Björnblocket,marstrand and fruberget to name a some...have a look at this will be my forum for areas around Västervik and i am working to get guides over areas Of Västervik... Raz 073 0213738

Nea said...

Nice blog!!
Greetings from some german nooby climbers. Your blog rocks. :-)
Try to make our side a bit more interesting like yours.
Keep on writing.