A little of this, a little of that

Been slacking off on the blog as of late.  The inactivity doesn't have as much to do with a lack of climbing (I'm still getting out a bit) but more with  the more boring things in life like work .  So it goes.  I've got a backlog of photos and videos to go through (particularly from Rogaland) and hopefully I'll come around to going through them soon.  As the daylight hours begin shortening here in Sweden I'll need to find a way to occupy the time once filled with climbing.  I guess blogging is one way to stave off the darkness.

In the meantime.....

Working isn't all bad as blue skies makes for awesome tree work.  Here Johan tops a tree with a swipe of his saw.

Henrik on the striking (and scary) Flykten från jordens medelpunkt in Lyse Kyrka.

Ungdomar I Kalsonger: Video

A couple weeks ago I posted about a new roof in Bohuslan.  Well I took some footage from that day and made a little film of a mostly naked Jonathan throwing himself at the problems.  Hope you enjoy.



Bohuslan Bouldering: Ungdomar i Kalsongar from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Strafen

Strafen is a classic roof at Harbak that uses some intricate beta to climb out a roof before a slopey top-out.  This one took me a bit to figure out and I pitched off the top a few times before the send.  Quality problem.

Andreas working Stafen

The lower crux can be solved with a variety of different betas.  Andreas opted for my beta using a heel-toe and a bad undercling to gain a jug.

After pulling the lip you'll have to stare down some slopers.  The top was definitely the red-point crux for me

Andreas reaches the "jug"

Still not over

Harbak Bouldering

I've returned to Sweden after my short trip to Norway.  It was a bit of a whirlwind as last minute trips tend to be, but I got to hang with friend, climb a bit and scout some areas so I'm content.

Last time I posted a mediocre review of Vingsand before heading to Harbak.  First let me say that Vingsand is not a bad area.  The amount of rock there is impressive and if it continues getting developed it could be mega in a few more years.  And now Harbak

Harbak is a small area roughly 1.5 hours from Vingsand.  It was smaller than I anticipated but what it lacks in size it makes up for in quality.  It was nice camping at the boulders as I could wake up early and take advantage of the quiet/crisp mornings.  I just wish the area was bigger.

The big roof overlooking Harbak is littered with drop-off roof problems.  While I wasn't psyched on the climbing it was a great place to camp.  And if it rains there is still plenty of climbing as the roof stays dry.

Contrary to Vingsand, Harbak had plenty of good warm-ups and moderates.

On the far left of the big cave was a cool problem that topped out on a shelf.  

One of the area classics is a hard problem called Focus.  It was too rich for my blood but if I ever go back in better shape I'd love to climb on this one

Andy getting his try on

Hooligan sits off away from the rest of the climbing but is well worth the short walk.  An awesome problem.

Thomasina on a sweet roof called Ice Age

There are several good looking hard problems in Harbak, and everyone of the them shut me down.  Thomasina testing one

Vingsand Bouldering. Worth a trip?

Before coming to Vingsand I'd heard very mixed things.  Some people loved it but just as many said it was just ok and they'd probably not go back.  After being here only a couple a days I can see why it's given mixed reviews.

Vingsand bouldering is split into many small areas with some consisting of only a few problems.  The rock is generally very good and heavily featured which makes for lots of steep problems.  There is undoubtedly tons of rock up here and the potential for development is staggering but much of the rock doesn't make for that great of climbing.  It also seems that most of the development has been focused on caves/cliff-bands and if you're into long steep problems then I reckon you'll love Vingsand.  On the other hand if you are more into striking lines on boulders the pickings are slimmer.  It's been hard to find those lines that really inspire me (there are definitely some) and while the roofs and caves are fun it's not generally what gets me all hot and bothered.

So is the climbing worth the 15 hour bus ride?  If you throw in a couple friends I'd say definitely, but if it's just the climbing you're in for then it's a matter of taste (isn't it always).  For me the climbing doesn't put it high on the list of places to come back to but keep in mind I've only been here two days so I certainly haven't come close to seeing everything.  I can say the good stuff here is quite good and regardless what you think of the climbing it is still pretty sweet here.  The amazing scenery is what one would expect from Norway and the days are pretty much endless.  We've been getting late starts but still manage to get our fill as you can climb until midnight if you want.

All in all I do like Vingsand and could spend a few more days here but tomorrow we will take our battered bodies to Harbak, which from all my research seems superior to Vingsand.  Good times will be had.

The potential is staggering and rock is everywhere.  

Thomasina on a great "warm up" problem.  Good warm ups are a little lacking but we make do.  I'd say that Vingsand probably isn't going to appeal to boulders that don't climb moderately difficult unless that are in to cleaning their own problems.

The Diamond.  This one is too rich for my blood but is an amazing boulder problem.  It makes me want to be stronger.  Wish there were some more problems like this within my range

Andy on Eldorado.  This is a great problem that I really wanted to do but it managed to beat me in the end.  I'll blame it on being wrecked and bleeding from the day before.  Without excuses how would I maintain my egos. 

Day one in Vingsand, Norway

So after over 15 hour in a bus and a slight mix up on the pick up (pm and am makes a big difference) I arrived in Vingsand to hang with good friends and check out some bouldering.  Here are a few pictures from the first day.  I reckon I'll give my reflections on the area after I've had more time to fully scope it out.

Buses in Scandinavia are awesome.  Not only are they free from the unsavory types (mostly free, I was after all on the bus) but they have free wifi, electrical outlets and some even have complimentary coffee or tea.  That said it still suck spend all day in a bus and trying to sleep on the overnight trip was the standard fare of limbs falling asleep, a sore neck and general feeling of not having slept when you arrive.

My comrades and the trusty steed

Thomasina and Cedar on a picturesque approach to an area 

Andy warming up

Cedar crushing a roof

Thomasina on one of the many roofs at Vingsand

Another roof

This was taken at around 2300.  Not to love Norway in the summer

Norway Bound

My good buddy Andy Klier is getting in touch with his Norwegian and initially was meant to come down to Sweden for a visit.  There was a slight change of plans after he sampled the bouldering in Norway and our friends Thomasina and Cedar joined him.  Since Andy wasn't coming to me I decided to go to him and have 15 hours in a bus to look forward to.  Not that I'm complaining too much as I'm sure I'll climb some sick problems while I'm there.  Here is a little video that help convince me to join Andy and understand why he doesn't want to leave.

 
Bouldering in Norway from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.