A Day on Keö with Captain Spång

I had a little footage from last Sunday’s adventure to Keö. A lot more climbing was done but we don’t usually take much video when we go to new areas. The vid should give you a nice feel for the place and stars the courageous Captain Spång. Hope you enjoy.

Thanks again to Spång and Marie.

Team Manwhore

Here's a vid of Team Manwhore from a couple weeks back. Most of the team sent the problem when the camera was off or with a spotter blocking the shot, so I did a couple laps to get some footage of backmeat and show everyone how awesome I am (maybe it has something to do with my biceps).

A Productive Weekend

Two new areas were explored this weekend. While they're on opposite ends of the spectrum both are exceptional and have me wanting to go back.
The first area is a jumble of steep boulders in the forest on Orust. A 10 meter long jug haul is far and away the longest roof I’ve seen in Sweden and the "Stagger Lee" project on the "Nick Cave" boulder might be the best roof problem I've climbed on in Sweden. I’m hoping to post a vid soon of a line I did and some footage of the one I didn’t.

The second area is on a small island called Keö. We have Spång and Marie to thank for finding the area and loading us on their boat to get there. It's mostly slabby walls with a couple boulders. One extremely beautiful line held Martin and my attention for much of the day. It remains a project. Spawn of Spång, Captain Spång, and Only the Spång Survive were three great problems we put up.

The Keö project

Spång on the fa of Only the Spång Survive

Henrik on Captain Spång

Henrik on the scary top of Spawn of Spång

Spång on Spawn..

Movitz, The spawn of Spång


Lina cruising left out the Nick Cave roof

Martin eyeballs the jug on the Stagger Lee project

The other Martin the Stagger Lee project

Skivbloket Project

While Göteborg is far from tapped out I've been hard pressed to find new boulders close to town that get me psyched. It's rough having only a few hours after work (and the days are getting shorter!) and we find ourselves limited to areas we've been to hundreds of times. That said, occasionally you find motivation close to home.
I eyeballed the thin dihedral on skivbloket a couple years ago but it wasn't until recently that i brushed it up and went to work. It's high, beautiful, and begs to be climbed. Little Magnus was close and with any luck we'll go back next week and do it. Could be exciting. Nice to find motivation at a local area.

reaching to the heinous crimper

trying to bypass the heinous crimper by using the shoulder-exploding gaston

Orust and Utby

Last weekend we cleaned up some sweet problems at a new area on Orust. "Team manwhore" and "the velvet hammer" alone were worth the trip and there's still plenty to do. Here's a few pics from Orust along with a couple of Lina crushing in Utby.

Dyno on the turd burger wall.

A sweet slab.

The Velvet Hammer.

Team Manwhore.

Utby

Utby

Blue Steel, Ferrari, La Tigra

Making model faces on "team manwhore".
You know John, there's more to life than being really ridiculously good looking.

Little Erik in Kjuge

While Kjugekull locals seem deadset on putting up lame sit/defined starts to every existing problem (Dude, it's like at least two grades harder!) there are still a couple undone lines in Kjuge worth doing. Here's Little Erik this spring on the FA of one such line. I find it odd that it took so long for someone to do it while grade-inflating sit starts are popping up everywhere.

Unfortunately for Erik I eyed that line years ago and it was my closed project. He will have to unclimb it, and beg me for forgiveness. The project will keep the working name of "I'm an egotistical maniac”.

Congrats Erik. I can't wait until someone put a sit start on that one.