Thursday, June 28, 2012

Newness in Kortedala

My friend Jocke recently began developing an area in Kortedala and I was fortunate enough to get a guided tour.  It was nice going to a new place were some brushing had already been done.  During the day I repeated some sweet problems and added a couple of my own.  Here are a couple picture of a fun crimp line I put up and called Offender as well as a little video.

 Hammie standing under Offender.  

Crimping my way to the top

Two from Kortedala from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

New Stuff in Jonsered

Here are a few pictures from one of several new area near Jonsered.  In the one day we were here we established 6 climbs and brushed several more.  

A pretty amazing wall with several lines.  The rock is perfect but the do to the height and slopey nature of the top we didn't establish a single problem.  Next time I'd like to rally some pads.

 Johan on another line on the tall wall

 A cool steep problem with big moves.  I'm keen to go back for a cool dyno project that is just to the right

 Johan fires to the giant sloper of another newly established climb

Finishing off the problems that starts down left and surfs the sloper to the apex.  Good times

Friday, June 22, 2012

More from my Backyard

It never ceases to amaze me that striking lines are still to be found a stones throw from a fairly major road.  This next area was discovered when I stopped to inspect a steep wall visible from a road, and while that wall didn't have much of interest another wall 50ish meters away held a couple impressive looking problems.  The steep face has a perfect starting jug in the middle and two independent lines of holds.  There is no cheating these climbs as the rock offers just enough to be climbable.  After brushing I briefly tried both problems and can imagine myself doing the easier right problem with a fresh day and a little more work.  The better looking left line is definitely possible but feels just over my head.  I can almost fathom doing all the moves but this will probably require someone stronger to put together.  This left line in particular is a real gem and is begging to be climbed.

The area also holds some good slabs on perfect rock and a few other moderate to easy problems we never got around to brushing.  Here are a couple pictures.

 Trying the left project and wishing I was stronger

 From here you will bust a big move left or do some delicate matching to make the move more reasonable

 The right project.

 The first move of the right project

Crimping will be required

Adam on the slab wall

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Bouldering in the Backyard

I often comment on the abundance of rock around Gothenburg and the insane potential that is still to be found close to town.  Clusters of problems pop-up all the time as a small but dedicated group is willing to plunge into the underbrush to uncover future classics.  Since returning to Sweden in mid-April I've been unnaturally luck in my personal explorations as nearly every time I went searching I found something worthy (those that explore know how unlikely this is).  On top of that I've gotten tips from friends and all of the sudden I've got almost a dozen areas within 30 minutes of town I'm itching to get to.    

For the next few post I'll be showing just a few of the recent finds.  There is still a lot more out there to discover and most of the new areas still need a lot work.  Anyone that is interest in checking out the new stuff should feel free to contact me for beta.    

One of the new areas I "discovered" on a tip from Martin.  It consists of quite a few boulders under a large wall but there was one block in particular that enticed me.  We only spent one afternoon there and established around 5 problems and I managed to thrutch my way up one of the best looking peaces of rock in the area, calling it Executive Privilege.  There is plenty more to do and a couple super  lines left.  Here are a couple pictures of Executive Privilege.

The problem ends on the sharp arete, which is a problem in itself.

 Johan trying the opening moves on the steep face

 Making the move to arete after doing the crux move on the face.  

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Choose Your Own Adventure

Solstadström is one of  smaller areas but holds one of the best walls in the region.  During my brief visit there I started off by being shut down by the striking Awake the Unkind and totally discouraged when I realized that Le Pacte des Loups is impossible without a huge wingspan.  Fortunately I didn't throw in the towel as I found a sequence that works for people with normal stature.
There is a little confusion as to whether I did Le Pacte des Loups or Lilla Varg as I climb somewhere in the middle of the two climbs.  Whatever I did was sweet and comes recommended, I'll let other people worry about which problem I actually did (or was it an fa.....)

Le Pacte des Varg?