Wednesday, November 30, 2011

The One that Got Away.....for now

Sometimes there are those projects that somehow remain just out of reach for long periods.  The ones that you "know" you're going to do next time, and then the next time, and the next.  I'm generally pretty bad at projecting as the logic of spending more than a couple days on one problem doesn't make sense to me when there are so many more to do.  That being said there are certainly problems that I try once or twice a year and eventually realize I've spent way more than my 3 day quota.   

One of these problems is at a small area in Bohuslan and if it wasn't so damn beautiful I'd be able to leave it be.  I've actually stuck the definitive crux 4 or 5 times and chuffed at the top like an idiot.  It is not a problem you can try more than a few times as the crux requires crimping on a sharp micro-crimp.  At this point it has only been done by Henrik and spit off everyone else.  But I'm sure I'll fire it next time.

Here are a couple pictures of En Världsomsegling Under Havet. 

 Oskar working on En Världsomsegling Under Havet 

 Taking the sharp crimp before the crux dyno

Looking like he means business 

Sunday, November 27, 2011

A Few Pictures from Häller

Häller boasts some of the best granite I've ever climbed on and has an impressive number of great problems for such a small area.  It may be my favorite area in Sweden and I wish it was 10 times as big.    Here are a few pictures.

 Markus warms up on a crisp fall day

 Markus on an awesome warm-up arete.  A little unnerving due to the tree at your back

Søknadsfrist my be a traverse but it's striking with super fun moves.  I seems impossible until you unlock the beta.  Good temps help. 

 Emma on one of Häller's moderate gems, Alf

Josephine on the tricky Dogma

Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Midnight Mölndal

Here are a couple pictures of Midnight Mölndal

 Oscar getting feet set for the crux


Oh so close.  Oscar sent next try

Monday, November 21, 2011

Midnight Mölndal and Mudslide Lightning Video

One of the great things about Gothenburg is the amount of "urban climbing".  Walls and boulders can be found scattered around town and while these smalls "areas" generally only contain a few problems each they can boast some real gems.

One of these gems can be found on a small wall at the edge of a residential area.  Complete with grassy landing, Midnight Mölndal is a beautiful line and has been a hot problem as of late.  Unfortunately urban climbing often brings boulderers in contact with angry landowners and access becomes and issue.

Midnight Mölndal is located fairly close to a few houses and while the two closest houses are friendly with climbers there is a lady that glares from her window and has tried to run folks off.  Fortunately the climbing is on public land and we have every right to be there but climbers should still tread softly.  The last thing we want is someone to take a hammer to this problem.

If you go to Midnight Mölndal please don't walk down the hill toward the garden and the house beyond.  Try to stay low-key (no celebratory yelling) and if the lady comes out be nice when stating you are on public land and will continue to climb.

Here is a little video of Midnight Mölndal and it's direct finish, Mudslide Lightning.

Thursday, November 17, 2011

Monster Island Video

It seems like I'm perpetually behind on videos as I continue to collect footage and rarely have the time to put something together.  Some of it is that I'm trying to create better quality videos and not just throw something together but ultimately it just comes down to not having time (read:  I'm out climbing).

Anyway, I did manage to finish one video from September in the USA.  Here is a short video showing some of the classics at one of Pie Town's local bouldering areas.  Hope you enjoy.

Tolered Project

Tolered is a small area in the middle of town that is host to a couple impressive projects.  Recently Geir sent the stand to one of these projects but the line begs to be done from the obvious low start.  Erik and Geir have now done all the moves and it seems to be only a matter of time before they establish what will probably be Gothenburg's hardest problem.

Here are a couple pictures of Erik working the problem

A good line on the main boulder at Tolered

Try face

Small crimpers

On a side note, I would classify the line as 3 stars if not for the key crimper on the overhanging face being glued.  I'm very much anti-glue even if the line would cease to be.   

Monday, November 14, 2011

Kjugekull and the Escaping the Impending Winter

The weather in Sweden has been incredible and I've been taking advantage of it.  Been getting out quite a bit, managing to polish off a few projects and repeating tons of local stuff.  Unfortunately Sweden's impending winter can't be far away but fortunately I will once again be escaping frigid Scandinavia for the sunny Southwest.  I'm flying into Albuquerque, NM on December 6th and looking forward to climbing with friends in the sun.  Hueco? Roy? Vegas? Other?  Anyone psyched?

Here are a couple pictures from a recent day in Kjugekull

Henrik on his project, KO sit-start.  Thanks to Henrik for showing me this one.  It was pretty sweet and I'm sure Henrik will fire it next time

Alla Vill Till Himmelen.  The one problem in Kjuge the continues to elude me.  Maybe next time.

Henrik toe-hooking on the start of Alla Vill Till Himmelen


Friday, November 11, 2011


The islands have there own little micro climate and dry extremely fast.  I've salvaged many a climbing day by going to the islands when everything else is sopping wet and it was no different when Dain was here.  It was a bit breezy and cold but we climbed.

Dain tries to stay warm on the classic Goldwing 

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Dain on Öckerö

My good friend Dain came to visit us in Sweden a week ago.  Unfortunately the weather wasn't too good when he was here but we still managed a few days of climbing.  Here are a few pictures from a day on Öckerö.

 Dain tops-out Bättre än Bouldercupen

 Dain on Lamborghini

Kim on Lamborghini

Monday, November 7, 2011


Hippodrome is one of Häller's many striking lines.  I had previously used some beta that one might be tempted to call stupid.  Fortunately last time we pieced out way better beta that has given me hope of doing the unrepeated low-start.  Here are a couple pictures

 John on the opening move of the stand

 Daniel peeking around the corner

Thursday, November 3, 2011

Häller: Some Old and New

It had been awhile since I'd been up in the heart of Bohuslan so when I got a chance to head up north for the day I ignored the damp conditions and made a trip to Häller.  We where a bit limited on what we could climb but we sought out the dry stuff, climbing a couple new things and running some laps on the classics.   

 Peter on a cool new problem

 Granite sloper

 John on another new problem

Erik on Cuerpo de Hombre

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Call it a Day

Kim shows off her first blown tip.  I'm sure she is in store for many more.