Thursday, October 27, 2011

Getting the Word Out on Solklinten

Throughout the summer I've put lots of effort into developing a new area called Solklinten.  I've spent many a precious climbing day running through the woods finding gems and countless hours making them climbable.
I think I have done enough exploring and development around the world to speak with some degree of authority about an area's quality and potential and I can say that Solklinten captured my attention for the better part of a year.  

Solklinten may not be a world destination but it has some amazingly good problems of all levels and the potential is impressive.  I have personally established roughly 100 problems but they are spread over a large area as I've been picking off the problems that appeal to me.  There are certainly clusters with a dozen or more climbs next to each other but some of the best problems are fairly isolated.  I'm still finding amazing things and if the area ever got fully developed it would easily have 500 quality problems and over 1000 if developed to the level of Kjugekull.  I actually liken Solklinten to Kjugekull as it has the potential to be a similar area in turns of the amount of bouldering from a single parking area (I believe Solklinten actually has more but it covers a larger area).  All it would take is some work.

At this point Solklinten will appeal to the explorers who are willing to hike around and find things, hopefully bringing brushes and adding something of there own.  It would be easy for someone to visit the area with little guidance, find only a couple things and right the area off as limited.  Essentially I need to produce some type of guide to help folks navigate around but do to the size and terrain it seems like quite an undertaking.  I guess my stance on grades doesn't help the situation either as folks seem less likely to visit an area without a bag of numbers to chase.  

I do hope to produce better information on what has been done and where the best potential lies but who knows when/if I'll get around to it.  For anyone that would like to visit the area and get a tour/information feel free to contact me at

Me on a slopey project that should go down the next day with good temps

Hostage Taker once again

Lina on her name's sake, Lina's Arete

Friday, October 21, 2011


Mongomatic is a striking line so it's a bit surprising that it took me so long to try it.  It's tall and requires a few pads but the landing is perfect and the top-out is easy.  It's a bit of a one-move-wonder but I would still recommend it to anyone.   

Fredrik almost doing the crux

Geir oh-so-close.  He would fire it next try

Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Back at Solklinten

Last weekend I recruited the help of the young and strong Erik Grandelius to try the Miracle project at Solklinten.  The crux eluded us and while we are certain that it goes, the fact that Erik didn't figure it out has me (being considerably weaker) concerned.  

After getting shutdown on the project I showed Erik, Fredrik, and Martin one of my favorite problems in the area, Hostage Taker.  Erik got the second ascent.  Here are a couple picture of Hostage Taker from earlier this Summer.

 Ivan on the opening move of Hostage Taker

 Poa working toward the crux top-out.


Monday, October 17, 2011

Lightner Creek

I've been getting out a little here in Sweden as the weather has been perfect.  Hope the sun continues to shine as I've got lots of things to do this fall.

Here is one last retro-post from the States......

My favorite area in Durango was Lightner Creek.  The area has a few restrictions and the boulders are spread out but the rock is high quality and makes for good lines.  I only got to spend a half-day there but saw enough to know that when I return to Durango Lightner Creek will be my area of choice.  One of the appeals for me is the obvious potential for those willing to hike as I'm certain that countless gems are waiting to be discovered in the hills.  Here's a couple pictures.

 Prairie get oh-so-close on Center Problem

 Prairie on a beautiful crack problem

 Eric fires a thuggy arete

Evan sending his project, Airbus

Thursday, October 13, 2011

Sailing Hawks Classics: Last Tango in Durango

 I'm not actually sure on the exact name of this one but it has something to do with Tango and Durango.  The bulbous pinches the lead up the face make for a cool line and fun climbing.

 Prairie on Last Tango in Durango

Prairie on the crux

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Sailing Hawks Classics: Legacy of the Kid

Legacy of the Kid is one of Sailing Hawks most coveted problems.  One of the the areas original "hard" lines, it climbs an overhanging face on edges and pockets.  Beta varies depending on your strengths but regardless of how you unlock the sequence it is another must do for capable climbers visiting the area.

 Using the cross beta to set up for the crux

 Legacy of the Kid

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Sailing Hawks Classics: Sunday Stroll

The dakota sandstone at Sailing Hawks lends itself to steep climbing on pockets and edges.  It is not the friendliest on the skin and doesn't make for the cleanest of lines but it certainly has some gems and is well worth a couple days for the travelling climbing.  One of Sailing Hawks more popular lines and one of the classics climbs a steep face and is call Sunday Stroll.  Here are a few pictures of Prairie sending.

Prairie on the beginning Sunday Stroll

The third and arguably most difficult move

Grabbing a good edge

Eyeballing the jug before the lip

Friday, October 7, 2011


It's good to be back in Sweden as I'm amped to get back on some granite.  I've returned to some finicky weather and I'm a bit out of whack do to the jet-lag so I reckon I'll use the next week or so to retro-post pictures from our month in the States while getting back into the swing of things here.  

Here are a few pictures from the main boulder at Sailing Hawks in Durango.

 Prairie on one of the many fun steep problems on the large boulder in the center of Sailing Hawks

 Erik on Global Warming.  Though sharp and a bit contrived, it makes for some good climbing

Nearly sticking the crux of Global Warming

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Heading Home

This trip to the States is officially over.  Hammie and I are sitting in the Albuquerque airport preparing for the long flight home to Sweden.  I has been a great trip and while I'm bummed it's over it'll be nice to get back, October is after all one of the best months for climbing in Sweden.   I'll get around to posting some of the best pictures from the trip and hopefully editing some videos as well.

Here is a picture from one of the classic problems at Sailing Hawks in Durango, CO

Running a lap on Agent Orange