Saturday, October 24, 2009

A trip to the east

I've done very little climbing on Sweden's east coast. I'm under the impression that the climbing is better here on the west side and that being said we seldom find a reason to make the journey. But last weekend Hammie had an appointment with the US embassy in Stockholm and we figured we would make a trip of it.

After a smooth morning at the embassy (Hammie should officially be an American citizen in 2 to 4 weeks) I hoped in a car with Jon, a friend in Stockholm and mastermind behind thebrunoshow, and headed up to Uppsala for an afternoon of bouldering. I'd climbed in the area once before which saved me the trouble of running around for hours in an attempt to see everything (good thing since we only had a few hours of daylight) and Jon graciously toured me to problems I'd never tried before. We started with a sweet problem called Prince Valiant and then to a balancey and committing arete (name for that Jon?) before a quick stop at Jon's project. The project climbs out a low roof and while it doesn't exactly capture what it is I look for in a boulder problem it seemed like fun and I'd be surprised if Jon doesn't do it next time he goes there.

After the roof project we stopped at a beautiful solitary boulder that begs to be climbed and was more up my ally. After a bit of a struggle I managed both the problems on the boulder (names?) and would have felt quite please with the day but a proposition for one more stop just couldn't be refused. We ended the day when the light no longer permitted us to see the key footholds on a heinous slab project. Thanks for the super day Jon.

Jon nearly sending his roof project


Jon on the left line of the beautiful solitary boulder

On the way back from Stockholm we stopped in Örebro to stay with some friends and check out a small area I'd heard a lot about. Rosendal was said to be a small area in a beautiful setting and the reports were right on both accounts. The area was limited but had high quality stone that makes for great climbing and there was one amazing block that alone would be worth the trip.

Unfortunately my attempt to climb-out the area was thwarted by a problem call Maestro as I managed to repeatedly fall off the final move despite it feeling piss easy if I just skipped the start. I guess it's sometimes nice to have things to come back to, especial since Lina really enjoyed the area and still has heaps of things to try.

Many thanks to Andreas, Jenny, and Noah for the great tour and being incredible hosts.


The view from Rosendal

Andreas puts on his war-face

Falling on the Maestro dyno one more time

Lina on an awesome dihedral

Andreas on the beautiful Dream Line


1 comment:

Dain said...

alright, alright, i never check my phone (I don't get reception out here) but you never check your email, euro-boy! anyway, sorry i missed your call a few weeks ago. i want to come visit early this summer. will you and lina and the little kearney still be there? Dain