Monday, July 28, 2014

Some of the Latest Development

Here are a few pictures of some problems we've recently put up around Sweden's west coast.  I'm actually not sure what we ended up naming most of these as I've forgotten or we never found a fitting moniker.  

Novak on a random boulder I found out near Härryda.  The easier problem goes straight up but if you like it spicy you can head right to a high crux.

Tumle on a fun compression problem off Härskogsvägen. 

An awesome problem that climbs out a roof and ends with a crux helicopter dyno.  Pyssel, not surprisingly, got the FA when I took him here and I'm psyched to get back as I never put it all together.

Mathias on Ménage à Quatuor, one of Bohuslän's best moderates.  We put up a few other problems in this area but this striking rail feature was the gem.

Mathias on one of the other problems near Ménage à Quatuor.  Around the corner from this problem is an amazing project that is above my pay-grade but could go for someone with fingers of steel.

Sunday, July 20, 2014

Back to Reality, and it's not so bad.

I don't live in Rogaland nor do I have the possibility to take long and frequent trips there and I just have to accept that.  And while it is a far cry from Norway, I actually live in a pretty awesome place to be a climber and have my fair share of world class bouldering.  So now that I'm over the post-trip blues I can get back to enjoying the plethora of rock around Gothenburg.

Here is a little video of a couple newish problems that were recently put up in Utby.  It's kind of surprising that these escaped our attention for so long, particularly Det första taket which is probably one of the better problems in the area (props to Pyssel for the vision).

Hope you enjoy.

Utby Bouldering: Three New Problems from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Thursday, July 10, 2014

Gloppedalen and Lysebotn: Two areas not to miss in Rogaland

One more belated post about Rogaland.

If taking a trip to Rogaland there are two areas that should not be missed.  Gloppedalen and Lysabotn not only have world class bouldering but provide a unique/magnificent/awesome/amazing/stupendous environment that can be appreciated by anyone.

Gloppedalen has obvious appeal to boulderers as it is a massive boulder field.  If Gloppendalen was somewhere else it would have hundreds or thousands of established problems but the vast majority of the area is unexplored as folks mostly stick to the classics near the sandy beach.  It's just to hard to develop when you can go swimming.

 About a 5 minute walk to the beach and the road winds through the boulder field.  Would be nice to just go here with a motivated crew and brush for a week or two.

Ebbe working Problematikk, a tricky dyno.

Hanna on just another sweet problem at Gloppedalen

Lysebotn is perhaps the crown jewel of Rogaland.  Quintessential Norway, the area is tucked away in a fjord and I've heard several friends comment that it is the most beautiful place they have ever bouldered and I might agree.  While not to be missed it is also one of Rogaland most sensitive areas so be access minded when visiting

It's a long way down but you'll be rewarded at the end of all those turns.  The road is closed much of the year but a boat can get you walking distance to the boulders.

Hanna on the classic Moon arete.

Pyssel on Kvassteidn, an awesome knife-blade arete at Lysebotn.

Stian sending Kvassteidn from the sit start.

Tumle gets close on Mikke Mus Klubbhus, Lysebotn.  Hard to beat the setting.

Hanna digging in on Dick and Daisy