Kraft Boulder Classics

The Kraft Boulders are Vegas' largest and most popular area and the only place I'd climbed previous to this trip. With a short approach and good concentration it's easy to see why the place gets the majority of the traffic. We spent a couple days sampling the classics and I even collected a couple projects. My shoulder seems to be doing much better so if we make it back I'm hoping to dispatch with some of them.

Here are some pictures of a few of the classics at the Kraft boulders

$600. The name apparently had to do with a payout to aspiring first ascentionists.

$500. This problem shares the dyno ending of $600 but opts for the slightly easier left entrance

Angel Dyno. I think this is the best problem at the Krafts. Beautiful line, good rock and rad moves

Rino Rojo. The spicy top-out is hard for short folks

The Pearl. Possibly the most popular problem in Vegas.

Vegas Baby Vegas

Red Rocks outside of Las Vegas proved to be pretty decent. The rock tends to be mediocre but what it lacks in quality it makes up for in quantity. There are an impressive number of boulders for those willing to hike with top class problems on bomber rock popping up on occasion.

The sandstone lends itself toward steeper climbing so even when the lines are ugly and the rock is questionable it's still easy to have fun. I wouldn't say the bouldering can fully compete with Bishop and the Tanks but the fact that it's fairly new to me makes it my top pick for this winter. It's nice to be able to climb 10ish new climbs everyday instead of trying projects and seeking obscurities. Hopefully I'll make it back for a spell before flying back to Sweden.

Lots of boulders can be found in them hills

You got to love the desert. T-shirt bouldering in the dead of winter and plants that like their personal space.

Prairie trying Snake Eyes in the Kraft boulders

Americanization

I've been hanging with David the Australian for the last couple week. About a week ago he injured his finger and the inability to climb has lead to a downward spiral. It started with heavy drinking and ended with American flag tights. I hope his finger gets better soon.

Funny Shirt

I saw this shirt the other day and it made me laugh. I wonder if Jens has seen it as I'm told there are a few in circulation.

More Hueco Pictures

After a few relaxing days in Pie Town my shoulder is feeling better. Still not pain free but I'm ready to get back to abusing it.

Our small posse of 4 climbers are heading toward Las Vegas, enticed by all-you-can-eat buffets, desert sandstone and a chance to instantly improve your lot in life. A new guide for bouldering in the area recently came out and provided glossy pictures to get us all hot and bothered. Maybe Vegas will prove to be a new winter alternative as the Tank and Bishop have been losing my interest. We'll see.

In the meantime, here are some more pictures from the Tanks.

Nuno on the beautiful (but sharp) Better Eat your Wheaties

Andy grimacing on Sarah

Ryan on one of Hueco's best, Babyface

Hueco Pictures

Nick topping out See Spot Run

Allen tries Power of Silence

Chris running a lap on Moonshine Roof

The Egg

The Egg is one of my favorite problems in the Tanks and was Prairie's main objective for a couple days. Prairie was close to sending but couldn't put it all together. Next time.

For now I am off to Pie Town to hang with family and then I'll head to Vegas to explore the bouldering around sin city.

Here is a couple pictures of The Egg

Lisa on the first move of The Egg

Nuno finding purchase on the slopey finnish

The French Tickler

The French Tickler is one of Hueco's best lines and one of the few problems I thought I could do in my weakened state. Unfortunately the old Walker has made a comeback as I fell off the very top a few times and left empty handed. The worst part is that I walked away with an injured shoulder and I'm now taking it easy and hoping that the pain goes. Hopefully a few days of rest will be enough as I'm too stupid to actually take substantial time off.

Here are a couple pictures of the Tickler

Scoping the top out

Jeff on the French Tickler

Only a foot from the top and not sending

My Life in a Ta nk

Great people and good weather have been the common themes at the tanks. Other than a tweaked shoulder and general weakness things are great. Here are a couple more pics.

Kiva Cave

Chossy Top outs

Friends

The morning routine with Ashley

Pics from the Tanks

Here are a couple pics from the Tanks

Chris on Disposable Heroes

Sign of the Cross

Jerry on Best of the Best

Waiting to get into Hueco Tanks

Prairie in the Tanks

My recent lack of climbing has certainly taken it's toll and after a day in the Tanks I've accepted the fact that this will not be a trip to send projects. My 10 days here should at least get me back in shape and maybe when the jet-lag wears off I'll get lucky and scrape up a project. We will see.


Until I post new material here is a little video of Prairie doing some classic moderates and yelling profanities. This is footage from a few years ago and Prairie now warms up on these problems. Give it a year and she'll be climbing harder than me.

Prairie in the Tanks from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Good Bye Sweden!

I'm still a couple hours from touchdown in El Paso and chomping at the bit to get my hands on some rock. The scene I left back in Sweden consisted of me going to the climbing gym and whining about how long it had been since I climbed. Well it is soon time to change my tune as I can start whining about how bad me skin is from climbing too much.

This is what Sweden has looked like for the last month. I reckon it will be in the same condition when I return at the end of January.

Leaving Sweden isn't all good as I'll be without me two girl for a couple weeks.

Two from the Tanks

The snow keep piling up here in Sweden but it's only a few day until I'm shredding my tips in Hueco Tanks. Can't wait.

As I gear up for the trip I figured I'd post some old videos from the Tanks. This first one is from 3 years ago and has two of Hueco's better "high-end" problems. Both the The Feather and Full Service are must do's and I had to work for both of them. Falling off the easy top-outs only makes the final send that much sweeter (and quite a relief).

Enjoy.

Two from the Tanks: The Feather and Full Service from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Eftersändning

At Daniel's request, here is a video of his send of Eftersändning.

Eftersändning from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Bohuslan Bouldering Video

Still no climbing in the icy purgatory that is Sweden. Been going to the gym a couple times a week in hopes of not being completely worthless for Hueco Tanks. Only 10 days left and then I'll be basking in the sun and flailing on boulders in the USA.
Until then, here is another video. This one has a few problems in Häller and one problem on Orust.

Hope you enjoy.

Swedish Bouldering: Bohuslan from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Årekärr Video

Here's a video from from the new area I started developing this fall. Årekärr has proved to be pretty good and this is only a taste of the problems done with many of the best lines still waiting for fa's. As soon as the spring thaw arrives I'll head back.

A note, Bummel's roof is actually still a project as he never sent, I just clipped it together for the video.
Enjoy.

Swedish Bouldering: Årekärr from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Hälsö Video

Been quiet as of late and I reckon that's not going to change anytime soon. The Swedish weather gods continue to dump snow on regular intervals and it looks like the next opportunity to climb will be sometime in the spring. Fortunately I've only got a couple weeks left until I'll be basking in the sun in Hueco Tanks. Until then I'll use my free time throwing together videos and trying to keep myself warm.

Here's a little vid of some climbs on Hälsö, one of the islands outside Gothenburg.
Hope you enjoy.

Swedish Bouldering: Hälsö from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Joshua Tree Bouldering Video

Here's another video from the States. The footage is from last winter and is a collection of a few of the problems in Joshua Tree. There are still lots of Joshua Tree haters out there (I used to be one of them) but the place actually has some decent bouldering. It took me three trip to J-tree before I decided it didn't suck and I'm excited about returning there at some point. With a little guidance and perseverance everyone could like J-Tree.

Enjoy the video.

Joshua Tree Bouldering from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Kjugekull

We went down south for the weekend and I got in a day of climbing at Kjugekull. The weather was brilliant and while my main objective went unattained I did manage to tick off a couple problems I haven't done before. "Alla vill till Himmelen" had been tops on my list of problems but since it continued to thwart me I settled for Imperator and Huggsexa instead. I guess I'll have to go back to Kjuge at some point to do "All vill till Himmelen".

Here's a couple pics

This is an old picture of Eric on Huggsexa

Peter not sending Sonic. Falling after the crux must get frustrating around the 5th time it happens.

My nemesis

Peter on his way to falling off the very top of Monolith

Castle Rocks State Park Video

Still throwing together old footage. Here's a little vid from Castle Rocks State Park in Idaho.

Hope you enjoy.

Castle Rocks Bouldering from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

The weekend

We were blessed with blue skies last weekend and we tried to make the most of it. Saturday had us chasing sun as it was a bit on the chilly as we grappled the problems at Utsikten on Tjörn. On Sunday we warmed our bodies by removing moss and brushing holds at we stumbled upon yet another sweet area on Tjörn. So much rock.


Here are a couple pics

Klas on a sweet problem at Utsikten

Lina bears down on Blown Away

Per-Ola tries A River Runs Through It

Time on my Hands

With shorter days keeping me inside I've got a bit more time to kill in front of a computer. I'm once again making an effort to go through some older footage and throwing together little videos. Assuming the tilt of the earth doesn't change in the immediate future I should be adding videos to the blog on a fairly regular basis for the next month or so.

This video is from last winter and has a couple FA's. The Perfect In-between is a 3-star problem in Värnamo that I wish I had better footage of. So it goes. All the other problems are on a boulder nearish to Ronneby. The best lines on that boulder still have yet to be done.

Some Swedish Bouldering from Kearney Journey from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Thank God for the Islands

As stated early, this time of year can be rough for a New Mexico boy like me. That's not to say there is no climbing at all here in Sweden but as the days get shorter the windows of opportunity get fewer. Fortunately for me there are the islands just outside Gothenburg. With a couple hundred fast drying problems and a micro-climate that is generally more favorable that the mainland, the islands provide a fix when everywhere else is sopping wet. It helps keeps the suicidal tendencies at bay.

Occasionally I need to be reminded of how great the islands are and Sunday's ill conceived trip to Orust did just that as I spent half my time drying rocks so I could climb on them.

Here are a couple pics

Island life

The Helmet

Anders on I am the Walrus

Geir on Hälsö

Per-Ola in Boxvik after 40 minutes of drying

Buddha Rhubarb Butter in Boxvik

A Turn for the Worse

Every year around this time I try to convince myself I should start training. This shift from my general anti-training stance is of course due to the onset of oppressive Swedish weather. Unable to climb outside on a consistent basis I begin to wonder how many trip to the gym it will take to actually learn to like plastic. My attempts in previous years turned into simply hanging out with friends and whining about the weather, occasionally making it past warming up before throwing in the towel. We'll see how things go this year. I should just put together a campus workout and dangle from a hangboard so I don't become super weak. However, I'll probably resort back to obsessively checking the weather and waiting for my annual escape to the States (Dec 9th -Jan 26th).

Swedish winters suck but there are small windows here and there. Between the driving rain and lengthening darkness I have managed to make it out here and there the last couple weeks. Hopefully we'll have a few more good days, just enough to stave off depression.

Here are some pics.

It gets dark pretty early so night sessions allow the working stiffs to climb during the weekdays, if it's dry.

Pontus on a new problem I put up in Årekärr

Johan in Branta Trappan

Pics of Organic Pads

I've uploaded a slideshow of most of the Organic pads available here in Sweden. The pictures appear on the right side of the blog and all the pads have different colors and designs to suit your unique style.

The slideshow pictures are of the regular pads but I do have a few of the big ones available as well along with some other gear. For the time being the prices for the Organic gear is as follows

regular pad 2200kr
big pad 3900kr
chalk buket 250kr
chalk bag (with belt) 200kr

folks that are interested should shoot me an email at kearneyjourney@gmail.com.

I also have limited numbers of other Organic gear from tote bags to t-shirts.

Jänkarproblemet

Here is a video of Lars doing Jänkarproblemet on Öckerö. There are surprisingly many ways to do this problem but Lars is the only one I've seen use this beta.

Jänkarproblemet from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Two Roofs

I made a little film of a couple FA's in Bohuslan.

Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie was miraculously sent in the summer with sub-par temps. Sometimes you just get lucky I guess. It is still waiting for a second ascent.

As for Radar, if you follow the blog you know that my dumb beta lead to a punctured finger and a bruised ego. Per-Ola got the FA and I had to go back a week later and sent first try with the good beta. That problem has now seen several ascents and will be one of the more popular problems in an area that should eventually hold quite a few problems.

Here is the video. If you want to watch it in HD I think you have to go to Vimeo.
Hope you enjoy.

Two Roof in Bohuslan, Sweden from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

The Ringer

Still getting out a couple times a week. The weather has been perfect and Hammie enjoys bundling up and playing in leaves. A couple noteworthy problems have gone up in the last few days. In Årekärr the cool rail problem yielded to cooler temps and proved to be quite good. Martin and I sent in quick succession but he got the FA so he'll have to come up with the name. (Ideas Martin?)
In Tjörn I stumbled upon an undeniably great problem and after wiping the drool from my mouth we went to work. It proved to be a bit harder than it looked but it still relinquished to my efforts. I'm calling it The Ringer.

Martin on the rail problem in Årekärr

The rail problem

The Ringer