Tomorrow we leave for Fontainebleau. Psyched! In the meantime here is one more post from Sweden.
Hammie and I accompanied Kim to one of her projects last week. Norlandsguld is one of Gothenburg's best and while Kim didn't send she got ridiculously close. I'm pretty sure it will go down next time and I hope I'm there to support and film. Here's a picture of Kim and an old video of Lina sending.
Been exploring a lot recently. Bohuslan continues to yield 3 star problems every time I go looking (more on that soon) but things have been a bit slimmer closer to home. Still finding heaps of rock but I'm mainly looking for lines that make me get all giddy and unless it's pretty close to home even 2 star lines get passed by. Fortunately some of the better-than-most-but-not-amazing boulder problems keep popping up in the immediate area and provide welcome distractions between trips to Bohuslan. Two such boulder problems we recently tried are in Melby.
One of the problems recently become a project after breakage of the key hold rendered it considerably harder and the other has been passed by because it's a bit on the high side. Both have repulsed our first attempts to grapple them but will no doubt go down with a little more work. Here are a couple pics.
Peter wishing for cooler temps on the recently broken problem
Peter discovers that the second project is hard as well as high
Threw together another little movie from some old footage. These are a just a few problems in the Gothenburg area that I had footage of. Most of the problems are located more or less in town and don't even come close to scratching the surface of what is to be had. For those of you that don't know, Gothenburg is one of the better climbing cities I've ever seen and if it wasn't for a below average climate I'd have a hard time finding a rival.
Apparently there has been a bit of discussion about the boulder problem Chasing the Dragon. The obvious sitstart to Enter the Dragon was given a big number despite lacking any moves that are actually that difficult and recently this long, steep problem has had several repeats due to new beta eliminating the crux dyno and making the problem 3 moves shorter. Now climbing between the original exit and Draggin' Ass (a problem I established to the left) people are proposing that there are two different problem that should be graded differently. Of course none of this would matter if grades weren't involved but egos need to be stroked and the roof will probably end up looking like a connect-the-dots, having 6 different problems depending on which hold you touch. The problem was already soft, to use the parlance of our times, and now it's softer. Who cares? Maybe the best option is to combine all the could be problems into a single name and grade. I suggest Entering the Dragon's Ass, V-who-gives-a-shit.
And now to stroke my own ego, here is a vid of the new beta for Chasing the Dragon, aka Enter the Dragon's Ass.
I made a video awhile back that showed Lina and Prairie battling with the classic boulder problem Norlandsguld (here's the old vid). Both of them walked away pretty battered and vowed to return for some payback. The rematch happened last summer but I never got around to doing anything with the footage until now. Hope you enjoy.
Lina and Prairie take on Norrlands Guld, one of Göteborg's best problems. When the battle is done the girls must walk away with their battle wounds. Norrlands Guld won this round, but the war is far from over.....
