Dartmoor Bouldering: Four from the Moor

I'm gearing up for the annual trip to the States and I can't be more excited to see friends and family while climbing worthy rock.  The trip will be a bit different this year as it is "only" 4 weeks and we'll be based out of Tucson, Arizona.  Good times will be had and I'm psyched for some new rocks.

In the meantime here is a little video of 4 problems from different places on Dartmoor.  All are considered area classics but some are a bit more obscure and don't get much traffic (particularly Dark Devotion).  Hope you enjoy the video.

Little Cottonwood Canyon: Bad News and a Bouldering Video

I'll start off by apologizing for the prolonged absence from posting.  There are multiple reasons for the break and hopefully I'll get back into semi-regular posts.  If there is anyone out there that still reads this blog but wants more frequent "climbing porn" then I'd recommend following my Instagram, Facebook, and/or checking out Climbingpics (I post photos there for time to time).  Ok, now to an actual blog-post.
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A couple weeks back a Salt Lake City climber discovered that several problems in Little Cottonwood Canyon had been vandalized.  Apparently someone went to several popular sectors and smashed/pried off some holds.  There were roughly 20 problems effected and while all of them still go (I'm told most are actually easier now) it's a real shame someone would do this.  Obviously the culprit had at least a basic understanding of climbing as they targeted classic problems with their blatantly malicious act.  You can read more about the vandalism at Rock and Ice.

Anyways, the bad new got me thinking out Little Cottonwood Canyon and I decided to finally throw together some footage from my brief time there last year.  This little video is from a brief solo session where I had a couple hours to try to do as many of the classics as I could.  It ended up being very productive as I was able to do every problem on my list and even had time to add one from the 5-Mile sector across the road from Riverside.  Doing this circuit is less impressive when you consider that I had previously done 5 of the 8 problems in the video but I was still pretty happy with myself.  It's also worth noting that of all the problems in the video only Butt Trumpet (from the 5-Mile sector) was vandalized as the perpetrators were apparently too lazy to walk further than 20 feet from the road.

Hope you enjoy the video


Little Cottonwood Canyon Bouldering: The Riverside Circuit from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Dartmoor First Ascents: The Great White Slope

Last year I removed a moss carpet from a boulder in Lustleigh to reveal a massive sloper.  The feature alone made this rather short boulder suddenly very appealing and I added it straight on my to-do list.  The sloper ended up being worse than it looked and I needed to wait for cold temps but to be honest I wasn't expecting this problem to be that hard.  It ended up putting up a serious fight and is full on from beginning to end.  In fact, just getting establish proved difficult and I had one whole session where I was never even able to attempt the first slap.  I even put a rope on to try the upper moves and I can honestly say this is the shortest boulder I have ever done that for.

It took three more sessions and so much skin to crack this one and in the end I barely scraped up it.  I'd be curious to hear how it goes for other folks as maybe this one just played to my weaknesses.  But better get after it soon as I'm not how much longer we'll have favorable conditions.....

Here's a little video that only captures a small part of the struggle.  Enjoy.

Devon Sent: The Best Problem in Dartmoor?

I realize a post from England is long overdue as we've been here since March and while I've posted on Instagram I haven't put anything on the blog.  I've really got no excuses but until I put together something more substantial together this little video of two problems from my local area will have to do............

Before moving to England I saw a picture of Devon Sent and immediately knew there would be at least one problem in the area worth doing.  The line is striking as a pair of "veins" cut through the middle of a gently overhanging granite face and provide just enough holds to get to the top.  Finding a sequence proved the crux for me as the moves are technical and skin generally limits the number of attempts.  In the end I put a rope on to figure out the moves and later went back with my two kids in tow for the send.  It was well worth the effort and is still the best problem I've done in Dartmoor.

Now for those that find Devon Sent a little too much, Nether Edge is a sweet tick in it's own right as it tackles the prow on the same boulder.  It also serves as a nice consolation prize should you get bouted by Devon Sent.  Hope you enjoy the video.

The opening move of Devon Sent.  Wish there were more problems like this in Dartmoor

North Wales Bouldering Video

Here is a little video from one of our days in North Wales.  I'll post a little write-up from the trip in a couple days.  Until then.......


Ogwen Valley Bouldering: North Wales from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Glendalough Video

Here's a little video of the bouldering I did in Ireland.  I spent a few hours running around in the sun trying to tick as many classics as I could.  These are the ones that I took footage of.  Hope you enjoy.


Ireland Bouldering: A Sunny Afternoon in Glendalough from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Getting Psyched for Bishop with some old footage.

Tomorrow we get back on the road and head to Bishop.  Psyched to be back there and circuit the old classics and maybe even manage some new problems.  Here are a couple older videos from previous years.  I should make some more of these.

Malibu Bouldering Video: Malibu Creek and Tunnel Boulders

We are still in Malibu waiting for a spell of bad weather to pass and I used my time to throw together a little video.  The footage is from various years (you might notice the haircut) and highlights a couple problems that are worth doing it in the area.

One of the problems is located in Malibu Creek State Park which is known primarily for it's sport climbing on steep volcanic tuff but has a bit of bouldering.  Chubbs (aka the Malibu Roof) is hands down the best problem there and is a saut after test piece for Los Angeles Climbers.

The other problems in the video are from the Tunnel Boulders that sit just north of the tunnel in Malibu Canyon.  Unlike Malibu Creek this area is a soft sandstone and while some of boulders are super solid most of the climbing is on friable rock and the problems are "evolving" as the area gets more traffic.  Regardless, there are some good climbs to be done.

Hope you enjoy the video.  And for those that don't pick up the quote at the start, drop everything and go watch The Big Lebowski  right now.



Malibu Bouldering: Malibu Creek and the Tunnel Boulders from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Moab Bouldering: Big Bend

Moab isn't known for it's bouldering.  People flock here for mountain-biking, trad-climbing and beautiful desert scenery but the bouldering still seems to be under the radar which is kind of surprising as the rock is good, accessible and unlimited.  Of course the thing that is lacking is development and spray but I reckon it is only a matter of time before this region starts getting an influx of pad-people as the potential is too good to be ignored for much longer.

While there is a multitude of neglected rock around Moab a small bit of bouldering does get plenty of traffic.  The Big Bend boulders alone are too small to be destination worthy but they serve as a sweet stopover for traveling climbers or a weekend spot for those within striking distance.  There is a high concentration of quality problems and maybe one of the best boulders in North America.  

Last winter while passing through I salivated at the boulders littering the hillsides and I stopped briefly at Big Bend for a little climbing fix.  I decided I needed to return to this region to do some exploring and try a few of Big Bend's offerings I never got around to.

Here is a small sampling from this years return to the Big Bend boulders and a little video of a couple classics from last year (in case you missed it).

The Colorado River winds through the canyon it carved and boulders can be found everywhere.  I do wish I had a boat as ripe boulder fields mock me the opposite riverbank.   

Big Bend is just one small cluster but the only place that gets any serious traffic.  Access is ridiculously easy and most visitors talk about how good it is but few bother to wander beyond the confines of the established area.  I promise there is lots more that is just as good.

Oskar joins us for a quick morning session to sample one of Moab's classic problems.

Prairie about to gun it on Silly Wabbit 

Looking up from the boulders makes me want to get a rope and see what's on the top of that tower.

Scoopula, One of Big Bend's hard classics that proved too much for us.

Quality climbing in a beautiful dessert setting.

Kyle fires a neglected classic.  Black Angus is one of the better problems at Big Bend and took us a bit to figure out.

The stellar Hell Belly is a compression climber's dream.  I'd like to do the proper line from the sit but wonder if I got the juice.

Chaos is another amazing problem.  Big Bend really packs them in.

And here is the video from last year.  More to come.

Moab Bouldering: Big Bend from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Little Rock City Video

Another little video from my time in the States.  This one has a bunch of classic in Little Rock City (aka Stone Fort).  Hope you enjoy.



Little Rock City Bouldering from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Little Cottonwood Canyon Video

Here's a little video from a snowy session in LCC a few months ago.


Three Problems at the Secret Garden: Little Cottonwood Canyon, UT from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

A Little Moab Bouldering Video: Three Classics at Big Bend

While in the States Hammie and I did a quick stop at the Big Bend boulders outside Moab, UT.  The area is small but has an impressive concentration of good problems and has the added bonus of being roadside, a big plus when rolling with a 4-year old.

I hadn't been through Moab in some years and I was reminded of how much potential the area has.  Other than Big Bend the bouldering development has been limited as the region draws mostly trad climbers but there are endless boulders to be explored underneath those splitter cracks.  One of these days I'll have more that just a couple hours and actually see what's out there.  Until then, here's a little video of 3 classics from Big Bend



Moab Bouldering: Big Bend from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Two from the Tablelands

Here's a little video of two problems from the Sacred Boulders



Two from the Tablelands from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Grand Junction Bouldering Video

Here's a little video from my time in Grand Junction.  Hopefully it will inspire some folks to get out and develop the "new" area (which is much better than most of the local stuff).  We only got that one half day and I'm psyched to go back if I'm still in the States when the snow clears.


Grand Junction Bouldering from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Rocktown Video

Here's another little video from my time in the Southeast.  For the most part I prefer making videos that are more than simply setting a camera on a tripod but that's all had the energy/time to do.  So if you want some beta and to get an overview of some of the classics in Rochtown you might enjoy this.




Rocktown Bouldering: Classics from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Video: Pyssel in Västervik

A few weeks ago Jonathan and I took a weekend trip to Västervik.  Jonathan (aka Pyssel) had a pretty decent trip despite it being cut short by a trip to the hospital after I hurt my knee.  Needless to say my weekend was shitty but on a plus side the knee is starting to feel better and I'm feel good about being able to climb in Tennessee in November.  Anyways, here is a video of Pyssel slaying a few problems that weekend.
Hope you enjoy.


Swedish Bouldering: Pyssel in Västervik from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Ungdomar I Kalsonger: Video

A couple weeks ago I posted about a new roof in Bohuslan.  Well I took some footage from that day and made a little film of a mostly naked Jonathan throwing himself at the problems.  Hope you enjoy.



Bohuslan Bouldering: Ungdomar i Kalsongar from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Norway Bound

My good buddy Andy Klier is getting in touch with his Norwegian and initially was meant to come down to Sweden for a visit.  There was a slight change of plans after he sampled the bouldering in Norway and our friends Thomasina and Cedar joined him.  Since Andy wasn't coming to me I decided to go to him and have 15 hours in a bus to look forward to.  Not that I'm complaining too much as I'm sure I'll climb some sick problems while I'm there.  Here is a little video that help convince me to join Andy and understand why he doesn't want to leave.

 
Bouldering in Norway from Boulderkeskus on Vimeo.

Västervik Video

Here is a little video from a weekend trip to Västervik.  Hope you enjoy.


Västervik Bouldering: Five Problems from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Las Vegas Bouldering with Colin Horvat

While we were in Vegas I got word that my friend Colin was also in town.  One morning he has 3 hours before work so played tour guide at the Kraft Boulders and watched him crush some classics.  Here is a little video.
Hope you enjoy


Las Vegas Bouldering: A morning session at the Kraft Boulders from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.


And for full disclosure, Progressive Guy and Ultraviolet where actually done on a different day.