Peak District Photo Dump

Some more pictures from the Peak

Patrik on the Green Traverse 

Hammie out for a quick session

Helene climbs, Lina spots and Patrik spectates 

A bucolic landscape

 If you've ever been to the Peak District you've seen a few of these. 

Patrik on a steep arete in Standage

The Eagle stone sits all by itself but is well worth a visit as it is has several great problems.  Here Patrik tries to find balance before the double-dyno on Where Beagles Dare

Patrik finds a creative sequence on a deceptively difficult problem

Flatworld was one of the problems I sought out after seeing a picture in the guidebook.  This aesthetic arete was  the gem of the small area

Patrik pulls on a cool pocket problem

Churnet Valley

When talking about climbing in the Peak District one needs to understand that it is not one large climbing area but rather a smattering of small areas spread over a fairly large region.  Some areas are extremely small and most days consist of hitting up several places so planning is important as one doesn't want to spend an hour in the car getting between two distant areas.  Fortunately many of the areas are located in clusters (sometimes walking distance from each other) making the transition from one to the next quite easy.  But there are some areas that sit isolated at the edge of the Peak District and warrant a good portion of your day just do to laction.  The Churnet Valley is one such area.

The Churnet Valley is near the edge of what you can call the Peak District (I believe it is located outside the Peak District National Park but is still included in the bouldering guide) and from the looks of it I wasn't too enticed.  The climbing consists primarily of drop-offs on cliff bands but there is one major plus to the area......problems can stay dry in the rain.  Knowing that England wasn't going to provide decent weather we made a trip one cloudy day and Churnet Valley proved to be the perfect location as we climbed a good number of problems despite frequent rain showers.  I'd even go as far as to say that we climbed some good problems, just wish they topped out.

The "main" wall at Churnet Valley is actually quite impressive and the problems have pleasing movement on high quality rock.  If only these problems would top-out. 

 Another view of the main wall.  Plenty of climbing on a single wall.

Patrik on one of the easier problems on the wall.  This wall is not recommend for those that don't climb in the  Font 7 grades.

 Simple Simon was one of the better looking problems and despite some serious effort I couldn't find a way to do it that didn't involve a right heel (damn my hamstring)

Patrik on Simple Simon

Patrik climbs The Nose at another wall in Churnet Valley

 A fun, thuggy roof crack

 Holding the big swing at the end

A cool dyno problem

Two things you should know about the Peak District

As I start to prepare for my return to Sweden I've begun reflecting on the last week in England.  These 10 days in the Peak District was my first time bouldering in Great Britian and served as a scouting trip as from the beginning I wondered whether it would be any good.  It actually only took a couple days to realize I'd like to return for a second more substantial trip.  My time here has been eye opening in a number of ways and I thought I'd share the two most important things I've come to realized about bouldering on gritstone.

1. The climbing doesn't suck.  Before coming to Sheffield I was under the impression that gritstone offered a handful of amazing climbs and vast quantities of turdy problems and hard (but unimpressive) traverses.  Much of the footage I'd seen from the area seemed to focus on either very hard climbs that were far from inspiring (small and/or sideways climbs) or very bold sends of routes that blur the line between highball and free-solo.  I had admittedly also seen a few amazing climbs that would certainly get me inspired but it's hard to justify a trip for just one or two good problems.  Fortunately within a couple days I realized the Peak District is more expansive than I realized and contains a fair number of amazing climbs I'd never heard of.
   
   In addition to have a fair number of great problems the gritstone tends to climb extremely well and even some of the less than impressive looking climbs become quite enjoyable.  The climbing is awesome and it is a place with something for everyone from bone-crushers to newbies.  The style of climbing has been described to me as "humbling", strength will only get you so far and you better have good technique and know how trust your feet.
   
2. The weather does suck.  England has a bad reputation when it comes to weather and it is well deserved.  We have been rained on everyday and even experienced hail a few times.  While I have managed to touch a fair bit of dry rock it takes motivation and patience.  It can be exhausting trying to take advantage of the brief windows between showers and if you aren't willing to go out at 0500 in the morning you might miss the only dry spell of the day (yes, I did go out bouldering before 0600).  The safest bet seems to be going to a windy crag and finding a cave to hunker in until the rain blows over and then alternate between hunkering and climbing as the weather gods toy with you emotions.
   
   Unfortunately for me having a 3 year old in tow is not very conducive to quick sessions at blustery locations and I've had to pass on a few opportunities.  While Hammie is generally very cooperative I can hardly expect her to be overjoyed about shivering in the rain at 1900 while her dad desperately tries to send before the rock becomes sopping wet.
   
   Considering how bad the weather is I'd still say the climbing is worth the risk but one needs to be flexible and  I recommend good rain clothing and a lengthy book (or something else to do while waiting out the rain)

Here are a few pictures of from the Cubar area

Patrik sowes his flexibility

Lina getting a taste of gritstone

 Patrik on one of Cubar's best, Gorilla Warfare

A beautiful woman on a beautiful slab

Taking a Peak

I've never been all that excited about taking a climbing trip to England but somehow the pieces all fell into place.  Between Lina's conference in Scotland (free travel for her) and my friend Patrick living in Sheffield (free place to stay for us) the trip was too easy to pass up.  Now a cheap Ryan Air flight and tiny rental car later I find myself wandering about the Peak District's gritstone.  Now if only the weather will cooperate I'll see what all the fuss is about grit.

If anyone has some recommendations while I'm here please shoot them my way (boulders or culture).

 Patrick playing tour guide to some wet boulders.  I guess no trip would be complete without a taste of the notoriously bad English weather. Now that I've done that it's time to clear up

Countryside.  Since it's not actually raining this is "good weather"

Västervik Video

Here is a little video from a weekend trip to Västervik.  Hope you enjoy.


Västervik Bouldering: Five Problems from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Tunablocket

Tunablocket is perhaps the best boulder in the Västervik area.  The compact red granite makes for great climbing and nearly every problem on the boulder is classic.  The only bad thing is that the boulder is 20 minutes from the next boulders (at least until closer ones are found).

Here are a couple pictures.

Mike on Roadaret.  

 Setting up for the crux slap of Itchy.

 Fredrik trying tall man beta

According to Raz (the man behind 95% of the development around Västervik) this arete to the right of King's Speech was undone.  If so I may have nabbed a sweet FA and if so I'm dubbing the problem King Louie.  It is a sweet addition to Tunablocket and I'm amazed it hasn't been done.

Back at it: Västervik

The weather in Sweden has been unnaturally good as the month of March set a record for sunshine and I have a hard time remembering the last time it rained.  Crazy.

Unfortunately I haven't been able to take full advantage of the weather due to injuries and a rare lack of motivation.  The injuries (elbow and hamstring) have certainly been a damper on motivation but as they get  better I find my motivation was remaining low.  The lack of psyche has been a bit disconcerting so last weekend I took a quick trip to Västervik to try to get out of my funk.  I think the trip worked as just knowing I was going to climb on some new problems got me jazzed and now several days after the trip I am still amped .  This return to my motivated self will certainly translate into the blog resuming it's semi-frequent posting.

Here are a couple pictures from Västervik.

 Mike working Nikita at Mommehål.  Västervik still has quite a bit of snow which was a bit limiting in which areas we visited.  Fortunately there are plenty of areas that were climbable and the temps were perfect

 Fredrik on Given to Fly.  This little gem sits off by itself but is still worth a quick visit if you're in the area.

 Given to Fly

Fredrik celebrates the send.  He had a mini-epic but pulled through in the end.

 Mike in steep country on Sourze at Marstrand

Primitive was one of those problems I figured I couldn't do.  Amazingly I stopped whining about being too short and just did it.