Martin's Sloper Problem

Step one: buy house in the woods   

Step two:  buy detailed map of surrounding area

Step three:  use map to explore and find rocks to climb

Step four:  brush rocks and invite friends to you own private area

Martin recently used these four simple steps to further add to the bouldering around Gothenburg.  His little area has a couple projects and one of the best sloper problems around Gothenburg.  The woods around his place certainly contains more rock and makes me jones for my own house in the countryside. 

Johan nearing the mantel on Martin's Sloper Problem.  

Jesper preparing to grab the first sloper

Jesper grabs sloper #2

Robert eyeballs the 3rd sloper

Jesper slaps the top

Martin on his sloper problem.  I think he actually named it something else but I can't remember

A New Season in Solklinten

As the weather warms we will inevitably be spending lots of time at my mother-in-law's summer house on Tjörn, and that means more time at Solkinten.  We were up there a couple weeks ago and I made it out for some exploration and yet again stumbled upon some good stuff.  It's amazing how this area keeps producing quality rock climbs as just when I think I've seen it all something else pops up.  I know I've been talking about trying to put out more information and a possible mini-guide and hopefully that will happen this summer.  The area needs something as the majority of the roughly 130 established boulder problems have been done only by myself and many of the best and most difficult require a little guidance to find.  There is also potential for hundreds of more problems (yes, I said hundreds) and while a doubt a mini-guide will bring many people willing to brush it might help contribute to development.

So until I get my act together people that want to visit the area should feel free to email me for information.  As always I'm eager share whatever beta I can with folks and if possible provide a guided tour, just keep in mind I might drag you to a new sector and hand you a brush.

Here are a couple of the brand-new things I found

This striking slab line proved to be more difficult than anticipated.  What I thought would be a quick stop to establish a great warm-up turned into a two hour ordeal to unlock beta and finally scrape my way to the top.  I called the slab "Wiggle-room" due to a worm-like feature and the tiny margin that separated the many fails from the actual send.

This is a gem of a boulder for moderate climbers.  What is not visible in this picture are 3 cool aretes and a couple face climbs all with perfect landing and just waiting to be done.  I didn't have my ladder or much time the day I found this boulder and the one problem I tried shut me down.  I was unable to properly brush the top or the stand would probably have gone.  While the stand start alone will be a struggle it's the obvious sit-start requiring thuggy power on slopey rails that I'm ampted to get back to.

Another Project in Lerum

The primary reason exploring has been so productive as of late is because we have been living in Lerum for the last month (for those unfamiliar with the geography of Sweden's west coast....Lerum is a small town roughly 20km east of Gothenburg).  Being here has afforded me new places to explore literally outside my back door.  It's easy to justify a quick exploration when you simply run from your porch or drive a few minutes.  I know I keep saying it but there is unlimited rock around these parts and those willing to put in the work can find amazing things.

Another small area I found is practically in town.  Jocke joined me for a day and we managed to put up roughly 10 problems and brush a few projects.  Here are a couple pictures of a sweet project.  Jocke has also recently added a few pictures of the area to happyboulder.blogspot.com.

Jocke reaching to the "hold" one must then dyno to the top from.  This problem ended up being more difficult than I thought it would be and awaits someone to stick the big dyno from the bad hold.

Same problem from a different angle.

Curious Carpenters

One of the new areas I found is within eye-shot of a couple houses and on the first day there we were under the watchful eyes of a couple carpenters.  I can only imagine what they must have been thinking as they watched a grown man dedicate an hour-and-a-half to cleaning and climbing a small piece of rock.  I'm the first to acknowledge that what I do is ridiculous and those two working class joes would surely agree.

On the plus side that arete ended up being a great boulder problem.  I'm calling it "Curious Carpenters".

 

Kim on the opening move of Curious Carpenters.  It took a little time to find the beta for this problem as it ended up being fairly intricate.

Kim working the top of Curious Carpenter

Back in Action and Scary Projects

Been getting back into the swing of things here in Sweden.  My computer is still dead and my injuries are still plaguing me but I'm still getting out climbing and I've been able to borrow Lina's computer.  Could be worse, Lina after all has a broken foot.

Spring has come to Sweden as the forest is exploding with flowers and Swedes are shedding layers and soaking up sunshine.  Spring time in Sweden is fantastic and we've been taking full advantage of the lengthening daylight and perfect barbecue weather.  The only bad thing about spring is the leaves returning to the trees make finding new rock a bit harder.  No longer can I simply drive back-roads and peer through naked branches in search of stone.  But a few leafs aren't going to stop me as I've been exploring a ton and having frequent payoffs.

Here is one of my latest scores.  It's steep, tall and a stones throw from the parking area.  Now all I need is to rally pads and muster some courage.

She's a beaut

Kalle working the project.  I certainly goes but it will be scary.  We've made it one big move from the lip but commitment is an issue.  Anyone want to test their courage?

More from Joe's

Here are a couple more pictures from Joe's Valley.  

 Mike sending Arbor-day

 Kate on the beautiful Beyond Life

An overview of one of Joe's best walls.  It contains the classics Wills a Fire, They Call Him Jordan, Arbor-day, and Beyond Life.  I wish there where move faces like this one

Wills a Fire

My computer has officially died, taking with it quite a bit of work on video projects and a small amount of pictures/videos from the end of the USA trip.  So it goes.  At least I managed to backup most of the footage from the trip.  Here's a couple pictures from Joe's Valley that survived the fire.

If you take a trip to Joe's Valley chances are at some point you will find yourself beneath the main wall at the "right sign area".  There is good reason too as this single wall holds several amazing problems of various difficulties.  Perhaps the walls main attraction is the popular Wills a Fire that climbs the striking line on the far right. While in Joe's I went there a couple days to support Dan on this gem.  It was looking to be a fruitless epic but in the end Dan pulled a send out of his nether regions and was grinning ear to ear.  Good times.

Dan finding the fingerlock before the big move to the lip

 

Dan grabs the jug for the send.