More new stuff on Tjörn

This summer has been a very productive season in terms of finding new rock. I've now collected enough projects to more than last through the fall and spring. Of course there is still time to collect a few more and hopefully I'll even be able to dispatch a few before the temps drop and the "sending season" gets underway.

Here are a few pics of a small area on Tjörn we stumbled upon the other day. Rain showers limited our climbing but a couple problems still went up.

Patrik does the FA of a beautiful problem on perfect rock

A tall wall with several good lines

Martin trying Shelter. We where able to climb on this one in the rain as a high roof provided the needed shelter (thus the name). I managed the FA with the use of thuggery and toe-hooks. Super fun steep climbing.

Rolly Polly

Finally made it to a line at Branta Trappan I've been meaning to try for years. After a bit of effort I managed the FA, shaking my way up the spicy top-out in the warm weather. I'm calling the problem Rolly Polly after the the little creatures that we brushed away when cleaning the problem. Sorry little guys.

The area also holds plenty more but I think the harder stuff will have to wait for the temps to drop a bit. Granite slopers are so unforgiving in the summer. Good times.

Here's some pics.

Sioux City Sarsaparilla Video

A couple weeks ago I put up a super sweet arete in Bohuslan called Sioux City Sarsaparilla. Fredrik was there with his camera rolling. Here's a video he made of the FA.

Bouldering - Sioux City Sarsaparilla FA from crimp.se on Vimeo.

Newness

Been explore lots lately and things keep popping up. While my drive to explore comes from hopes of finding those elusive 4 star lines it's quite nice to find areas that will yield more that just one or two hard climbs. One of the newer places I've found has the potential to actually become an area as it contains everything from hard project to good warm-ups. With a little work the area will yield well over 30 problems and that's only counting the obvious lines. Some of the work is done but I'd be nice to recruit some more folks to come out with brushes.

So far I've been shut down on the lines I was most excited about doing but I'm confident they'll go down with better temps and a little more effort. In the mean time I've got plenty to brush up.

Here's a couple pics

The slopey rail project. This one might have to wait for a cold day

Ola tries a cool slab project

The project follows the cool rail feature before busting to heinous crimpers

Per-Ola on the area's roof project. It goes but I think it'll be hard

Spång in Bohuslan

Anders Spång is my hero. Not only has he single handedly discovered the lion's share of bouldering in Bohuslan but he's done it with two kids. Spång's ability to get outside more than most is a testament to his motivation and the wonderfulness of his wife Mari (Spång claims he has the best wife ever. Mari is pretty cool but I beg to differ). In a few years I hope to be in the same position as Spång, living in Bohuslan with two kids and the best wife ever (that would be Lina).

A man after my own heart, Spång has been systematically exploring the vast granite bouldering possibilities in Bohuslan and has to tolerate my incessant pleading to show me his prize crop of boulders. Fortunately Spång is a giving soul and has taken me to more than a few gems. It is always nice to return the favor so you can imagine what a pleasure it was when I was able to show Spång some boulders in his own backyard.

The boulders had been a tip from Kalle and when Spång and I arrived we couldn't help but wonder how this place had gone under the radar for so long. Just goes to show the possibilities of Bohuslan. We climbed one sweet warm-up and then got spanked on the two best lines there, blaming our failure on the temps and our short stature. We'll be back on a colder day after stretching.

Anders Spång, the man, the myth, the legend

One of Spång's sweet finds

The new project that seems to hate short people

Waiting for a cooler day to go back to this one

Labels

When I first started blogging I didn't understand the purpose of labels, generally not adding any or just duplicated the title of the post. Of course by now I've figured out that labels serve the purpose of conveniently cataloging posts for quick reference of areas/subjects.

That said, I recently completed the tedious task of going back through all my old posts and relabeling them. Posts are now labeled by country, state, city and area for anyone interested in scoping a certain area. All the posts with videos are labeled as well and everything is listed on the right side of the blog.

Around Town

Just a few pictures from the last week of some problems around Gothenburg.

Lars tries one Gothenburg's local projects in Gärdsås

Peter ticks off Åttabollen with the help of a few pads and spots

Peter running a lap on Sockerbiten

Peter all worked up over being the new poster boy for Kearney Journey and Crimp.se

Per-Ola in Utby

New on Tjörn

Last Sunday Pontus gave me a tour of some places on Tjörn I'd never seen. My endless desire to see what's around the corner led to about 10 hours of hiking and only 30 minutes of climbing. I saw plenty of things to go back to with one super project that rain showers kept me from trying. The one thing I did climb was a cool arete in an area that will yield a couple dozen problems.
Here's a couple pics of the arete.

Steep

Kött Festivalen

Awhile back Spång grudgingly took Fredrik, Lars and myself to one of his projects in Bohuslan. The arete sat on a sweet block just off a back road and looked to be fairly simple but proved to be far from it. Spång's fear that we'd quickly dispatch his project proved unfounded and for a brief moment it appeared that we'd have to limp away with bleeding tips and crushed egos. In the end I scraped over the top for the f.a. after Lars punted off the top.

Here's a little video

Bohuslan Bouldering: Kött Festivalen from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Tipped off

As per usual I've been searching for new boulders. Of course the amount of rock in the region is staggering and can be quite overwhelming at times. Fortunately there are a few other folks that are also on the hunt and we occasionally pool our resources. I was recently tipped of to a large boulder about 40 minutes from Gothenburg and whet on a reconnaissance mission.

The boulder was quality but a morning rain had left it damp and we only were able to clean and climb one line. There are several more to be done with one standout that is probably really hard. I just wish it was closer to town.

Per-Ola on the one problem that was done.

Slopey rail to pinch gastone.

Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie

Jonas was filming when I did the fa of the cool roof in Ramsviksland. Here's the vid of Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie

Hamster Huey and the Gooey Kablooie from Jonas Sindler on Vimeo.