Adventures of the Climbing Kearney Kids

Lohbo

2012-01-23T18:48:00.000-08:00

Black Mountain has no shortage of sweet problems. One of the ones we sampled was a fun steep climb called Lohbo, which is named for its proximity to another cool climb called Loh's Roof. I managed to flash both these problems (stroke the ego....) and Prairie would have done Lohbo if she could have taken off her poopy pants. Next time.

Prairie eyeballs a long tenuous reach on Lohbo, Black Mountain California

Sticking it

A Little Bit Taller

2012-01-20T19:21:00.000-08:00

Prairie found herself wishing she was a little taller on several problems in Black Mountain. It is undeniable that height can make a huge difference and this makes Prairie even more determined to muscle her way up reachy problems. Of course fighting genetics isn't always going to be successful.

"I want that hold"

Determination

On the hold but in the end it wasn't quite enough. Sucks to be short

The Dreaded Remains

2012-01-18T16:01:00.000-08:00

According to most it was long overdue. Now I won't be mistaken for a Spanish gypsy.

The Republic

2012-01-17T21:37:00.000-08:00

Here are a few pictures from the Republic, one of the many area's at Black Mountain.

Prairie warming up

A cool arete problem

Creg mentally prepares for Twilight of Idols. This problem is one of the best I've done in awhile. Aesthetically it's hard to beat as this solitary line sits atop a mountain with a great view. A must do for capable climbers in the region.

Creg dials in the moves of Twilight of Idols.

Creg looked solid but in the end came up just short. Next time

Sunset

Black is the New Black

2012-01-14T08:40:00.000-08:00

My girls have finally arrived in the States and we are hanging out at my grandmothers place in Malibu and climbing local stuff around here. It's wonderful to have my girls back.
For the time being I'll try to do some catching up from the week before Lina and Nalani arrived. Here is a little reto-post about Black Mountain from about a week back................

The weather in the States has been freakishly good as areas that are usually snowy and unclimbable this time of year are snow free and warm. This gave me the opportunity to check out almost any area in California and I opted for one I've long been wanting to visit, Black Mountain.

Black Mountain is an extensive granite area located east of Los Angeles in the San Jacinto Mountains. It has long been a bouldering destination as many of the the classic moderates where put up by the old Stone Masters but it was the release of Big Up's Rampage in 1999 that really put Black Mountain on the radar. Since Chris Sharma's tear through area projects in the late 90s Black Mountain has continued to produce high quality problems as a dedicated crew of folks continue to explore and develop. The potential is endless for those willing to hike and I dare say that Black Mouutain should be one of the States' premier bouldering areas.

For my three days in Black Mountain I was fortunate to have a local tour guide as Creg graciously showed us around. Creg took us to a newer area called the Republic the first day and we spent the last two days at the main areas around OK Coral and Boulder Basin. I am now totally enamored by Black Mountain and can't wait to get back.

Here are some pictures with more to come

Potential

Creg hanging out in his backyard

Due to the seasonal locking of the gate we had a 40ish minute hike to the boulders. Will be nice to come back in the spring and be able to park next to the boulders.

Creg slogs up the road to the boulders

Prairie on a cool mantel problem at the OK Corral

The super classic Wave

Creg attempts one of his projects, Dark Horse

Prairie on the Hueco Wall

Black Mountain sunset

Joshua Tree's Geology Tour Road

2012-01-11T07:54:00.000-08:00

Geology Tour Road was the one area in Joshua Tree I had never managed to check out during my brief stopovers through the years. It was said to contain a few of J-Trees best problems and provided a reason to spend a day back in the quartz monzonite playground. Excited to see a new place, I borrowed a bouldering guide and checked out every noteworthy problem listed in Geology Tour Road.

As per usual in J-Tree, you have to sift through lots of choss to find the gems but those that enjoy exploring will certainly appreciate the potential. Unfortunately I didn't have time to do too much exploring of this mostly underdeveloped sector and spent the day chasing stars from the guide. It was a good day and I now have a few more problems to recommend to friends heading to J-Tree.

If J-Tree had more problems like Y2K then I'd probably spend more time there

Prairie just getting started on the classic highball Slashface.

Prairie on Pinched Loaf, which is officially added to my list of J-Tree favorites

Cacti

Jump for Joy

2012-01-07T23:03:00.000-08:00

My sister Prairie and I jump for joy in Black Mountain. Looks like one of us needs to work on flexibility

Juniper Canyon and the incredible Stand and Deliver

2012-01-04T20:58:00.000-08:00

One of the days I was in Vegas we rallied a small crew to head up Juniper Canyon. I'd been wanting to check out Juniper since last year but had difficulties finding willing partners as tales of an epic hike deterred most suitors despite the promise of one the "countries best problems". We'll I kept hearing about how amazing this problem was so our intrepid group decide to make the hike with our primary goal Stand and Deliver. We discovered that not only was the hike not that bad but the Stand and Deliver would have been well worth walking twice as far.

The promise of Stand and Deliver had me so transfixed that I actually took a rare rest-day before going up Juniper Canyon just to give me a better chance of sending. I was not disappointed as it is truly an amazing problem. And Juniper Canyon had plenty more to offer as the Cubical was another amazing problem and we discovered a couple super projects. Guess I'll have to make that hike again.

Lisa on Stand and Deliver

One of the projects I'd like to go back for. I didn't get a picture of the other project

Jason on the Cubical

Tom on the Cubical

Make a Wish

2012-01-02T13:03:00.000-08:00

For the next week Prairie will be joining me in the Motherload and we'll be heading first to Joshua Tree and then to Black Mountain. Good times will be had.

Here are some pictures of Make a Wish in Red Rocks. Make a Wish starts on one of the coolest slopers ever. The problem is kind of a one move wonder but the sloper alone makes it worth it.

Jason milking the sloper

Big D on the start of Make a Wish

Make a Wish

Gearing up for Another Great Year

2012-01-01T10:26:00.000-08:00

I arrived in Malibu just in time to close-out 2011 with friends and family at my grandmother's house on the beach. It was a wonderful way to end a great year and a perfect place to reflect on the past 12 months. 2011 was an extremely productive climbing year as I established over 100 boulder problems on Sweden's west coast, visited new areas, revisited some favorite areas and managed to stay relatively injury free and tick off projects everywhere I went.

I've got high hopes for 2012 as I'm hoping to make a dent in my list of projects and to discover more to add to that list. Solklinten was a major area of focus in 2011 and will continue to get my attention on it's way to becoming one of Sweden's larger bouldering areas. I'm hoping to make several international trips in addition to my annual winter sojourn to the States and hang with friends everywhere I go. I've got the whole year before me and the possibilities are endless.

Hope everyone had a great 2011 and that big things are in store for 2012.

Happy New Year!

Here are a few of the projects that may go down in 2012

Vegas Baby Vegas

2011-12-29T21:30:00.000-08:00

Las Vegas has been pretty sweet. Between playing the slots and cruising the Strip I've managed to get out and climb a few boulder problems. It's been bronzing weather in the sun and perfect temps in the shade and we generally plan our climbing days accordingly. I've managed to make it out to some of the more remote areas and have been cherry-picking the gems. Viva Las Vegas

Lisa on a cool highball warmup

Tom on the bicep intensive Americana Exotica

Richard (aka Big D) on Wishbone

Lisa on Frailty

Tom working Tailpipe

Natural Disasters

2011-12-23T19:01:00.000-08:00

Looks like I left the Tanks just in time as I hear from friends that it's snowing. Glad I just arrived in Las Vegas where it I'll be climbing in a t-shirt.

Here are a couple picture of one of the cooler new problems I managed to do in the Tanks, Natural Disasters.

Walter sets up for the dyno after roughly 10 moves of climbing

The cool rail feature of Natural Disasters

Lisa reaching of the finishing jug

Big Boy Climbs

2011-12-21T12:00:00.000-08:00

One thing about the Tanks is that it is chalk full of difficult rock climbs. That generally mean that even the strongest will have a hard time climbing out the area. I've managed a few supposed hard climbs but there are many many more that I have little or no chance of doing. Here are a few pictures.

Brian works the dyno on Yellow Diamond, a problem that has only been done by Daniel Woods and Jimmy Webb. I will most likely never do this boulder problems.

Jimmy sticks the crux on Slashface. Maybe I'll be able to climb this one someday.

Andy trying hard on Power of Silence. I hope to send this one this winter.

Life in the Desert

2011-12-19T07:38:00.000-08:00

The Tanks just got busy as the Christmas breakers are down in full-force. Gone are the days you could waltz into the park at 10:00 and get straight to climbing as now you best start lining up at the gate 6:00am to ensure a spot on North Mountain, especial during the weekend. Fortunately I've got plenty of hookups and I've been spending most of my time on tours with friends to the "guided only" areas of Hueco Tanks. The perks of being a "local".

I've been climbing some almost everyday and my body feels like a train-wreck. Amazingly I've been able to scrape myself up something almost everyday but the big-time projects are not the 4th-day-on variety so it looks like I'll be taking a real off day before my last day. I've got one day to grow skin and one day to send everything in the Park.........we'll see how it goes.

Here are some numbers from my time in the States thus far
Days in USA: 13
Days climbing: 10
Days climbing in a t-shirt: 5
New Problems ascended: 9
Percentage of meals that were wrapped in a tortilla: 85%
Flappers: 2
Showers: 1 (I'll be taking number two in a few minutes)
Compliments on hair: 1 (I'm pretty sure she was being sarcastic)
Skype sessions with Lina and Hammie in Sweden: 5
Girls I'm desperately missing: 2

Here are a few lifestyle pictures from the Desert

Neighbors

Shepard's Pie with a bacon-lattice. Amazing

Andy, Guide extraordinaire and the mastermind of the bacon-lattice

Sisters

The Tanks, aka my backyard

Breakfast, lunch, and dinner

Desert plants

Sunset

More Pictures from the Tanks

2011-12-15T09:05:00.000-08:00

Prairie grabs the left-hand crimp on Loaded with Power

Lisa knee-barring on Loaded with Power

Andy on the classic Better Eat you Wheaties

Lisa on a newish roof called Bush-league

The Desert

2011-12-13T09:44:00.000-08:00

Four straight days in the Tanks takes a toll on the body. I haven't been able to control myself as it's so nice to be in the warm (relatively speaking) desert among good friends and epic boulders. I'm reminded why I love the Tanks and have high hopes for this season as I'm in better shape than the last two years. I don't want to jinx myself but I think I could possibly send some long-term projects as some of the lesser ones have already gone down (The French Tickler and Chupacabra). We'll see how it goes.

Here are a few pictures from the Tanks

Gustavo runs a lap on Jigsaw Puzzle

Antonio on one the the more beautiful problems in Hueco, The French Tickler

Cal on Mexican Chicken

Lisa sticks the sloper on Chupacabra

Adam on Loaded Direct.

Excessive Calories and Puddles

2011-12-08T09:43:00.000-08:00

I’ve made it back to the good old USA and I celebrated touchdown at my final destination by consuming a doube-meat green-chili bacon cheese burger. God bless America. I’m currently on my way down to Hueco Tanks to burn off those excessive calories.

I seem to have left Sweden just in time as the first snow has now blanketed the landscape and climbing in Gothenburg just got shutdown. Fortunately things should be dried out by the time I get back to Sweden in April.

Until I get out on some rocks in the land of the free here are a couple pictures of John on Puddles from my last climbing day in Sweden.

John snags the intermediate before the crux

Puddles

Try face

John tries to seduce Puddles with his sexy face. Puddles wasn't quite so easy and needs a second date.

Sandsjöbacka Video

2011-12-03T22:29:00.000-08:00

I'm gearing up for my flight to the USA and I hear the beckoning of Hueco Tanks. Hopefully I'm in decent enough shape to slay a few projects but worst case scenario I'll hang with good friends in the sun and circuit classics.

In the meantime, here's another little video of climbing around Gothenburg. This one features a few of the classic problems Sandsjöbacka, an area just south of town. Hope you enjoy.

The One that Got Away.....for now

2011-11-30T11:19:00.000-08:00

Sometimes there are those projects that somehow remain just out of reach for long periods. The ones that you "know" you're going to do next time, and then the next time, and the next. I'm generally pretty bad at projecting as the logic of spending more than a couple days on one problem doesn't make sense to me when there are so many more to do. That being said there are certainly problems that I try once or twice a year and eventually realize I've spent way more than my 3 day quota.

One of these problems is at a small area in Bohuslan and if it wasn't so damn beautiful I'd be able to leave it be. I've actually stuck the definitive crux 4 or 5 times and chuffed at the top like an idiot. It is not a problem you can try more than a few times as the crux requires crimping on a sharp micro-crimp. At this point it has only been done by Henrik and spit off everyone else. But I'm sure I'll fire it next time.

Here are a couple pictures of En Världsomsegling Under Havet.

Oskar working on En Världsomsegling Under Havet

Taking the sharp crimp before the crux dyno

Looking like he means business

A Few Pictures from Häller

2011-11-27T03:33:00.000-08:00

Häller boasts some of the best granite I've ever climbed on and has an impressive number of great problems for such a small area. It may be my favorite area in Sweden and I wish it was 10 times as big. Here are a few pictures.

Markus warms up on a crisp fall day

Markus on an awesome warm-up arete. A little unnerving due to the tree at your back

Søknadsfrist my be a traverse but it's striking with super fun moves. I seems impossible until you unlock the beta. Good temps help.

Emma on one of Häller's moderate gems, Alf

Josephine on the tricky Dogma

Midnight Mölndal

2011-11-23T07:09:00.000-08:00

Here are a couple pictures of Midnight Mölndal

Oscar getting feet set for the crux

Mid-crux

Oh so close. Oscar sent next try

Midnight Mölndal and Mudslide Lightning Video

2011-11-21T11:47:00.000-08:00

One of the great things about Gothenburg is the amount of "urban climbing". Walls and boulders can be found scattered around town and while these smalls "areas" generally only contain a few problems each they can boast some real gems.

One of these gems can be found on a small wall at the edge of a residential area. Complete with grassy landing, Midnight Mölndal is a beautiful line and has been a hot problem as of late. Unfortunately urban climbing often brings boulderers in contact with angry landowners and access becomes and issue.

Midnight Mölndal is located fairly close to a few houses and while the two closest houses are friendly with climbers there is a lady that glares from her window and has tried to run folks off. Fortunately the climbing is on public land and we have every right to be there but climbers should still tread softly. The last thing we want is someone to take a hammer to this problem.

If you go to Midnight Mölndal please don't walk down the hill toward the garden and the house beyond. Try to stay low-key (no celebratory yelling) and if the lady comes out be nice when stating you are on public land and will continue to climb.

Here is a little video of Midnight Mölndal and it's direct finish, Mudslide Lightning.

Monster Island Video

2011-11-17T23:51:00.000-08:00

It seems like I'm perpetually behind on videos as I continue to collect footage and rarely have the time to put something together. Some of it is that I'm trying to create better quality videos and not just throw something together but ultimately it just comes down to not having time (read: I'm out climbing).

Anyway, I did manage to finish one video from September in the USA. Here is a short video showing some of the classics at one of Pie Town's local bouldering areas. Hope you enjoy.

Tolered Project

2011-11-17T01:34:00.000-08:00

Tolered is a small area in the middle of town that is host to a couple impressive projects. Recently Geir sent the stand to one of these projects but the line begs to be done from the obvious low start. Erik and Geir have now done all the moves and it seems to be only a matter of time before they establish what will probably be Gothenburg's hardest problem.

Here are a couple pictures of Erik working the problem

A good line on the main boulder at Tolered

Try face

Small crimpers

On a side note, I would classify the line as 3 stars if not for the key crimper on the overhanging face being glued. I'm very much anti-glue even if the line would cease to be.

Kjugekull and the Escaping the Impending Winter

2011-11-14T01:19:00.000-08:00

The weather in Sweden has been incredible and I've been taking advantage of it. Been getting out quite a bit, managing to polish off a few projects and repeating tons of local stuff. Unfortunately Sweden's impending winter can't be far away but fortunately I will once again be escaping frigid Scandinavia for the sunny Southwest. I'm flying into Albuquerque, NM on December 6th and looking forward to climbing with friends in the sun. Hueco? Roy? Vegas? Other? Anyone psyched?

Here are a couple pictures from a recent day in Kjugekull

Henrik on his project, KO sit-start. Thanks to Henrik for showing me this one. It was pretty sweet and I'm sure Henrik will fire it next time

Alla Vill Till Himmelen. The one problem in Kjuge the continues to elude me. Maybe next time.

Henrik toe-hooking on the start of Alla Vill Till Himmelen

Aerodynamite

Goldwing

2011-11-11T22:38:00.000-08:00

The islands have there own little micro climate and dry extremely fast. I've salvaged many a climbing day by going to the islands when everything else is sopping wet and it was no different when Dain was here. It was a bit breezy and cold but we climbed.

Dain tries to stay warm on the classic Goldwing

Dain on Öckerö

2011-11-09T04:29:00.000-08:00

My good friend Dain came to visit us in Sweden a week ago. Unfortunately the weather wasn't too good when he was here but we still managed a few days of climbing. Here are a few pictures from a day on Öckerö.

Dain tops-out Bättre än Bouldercupen

Dain on Lamborghini

Kim on Lamborghini

Hippodrome

2011-11-07T01:17:00.000-08:00

Hippodrome is one of Häller's many striking lines. I had previously used some beta that one might be tempted to call stupid. Fortunately last time we pieced out way better beta that has given me hope of doing the unrepeated low-start. Here are a couple pictures

John on the opening move of the stand

Daniel peeking around the corner

Häller: Some Old and New

2011-11-03T23:15:00.000-07:00

It had been awhile since I'd been up in the heart of Bohuslan so when I got a chance to head up north for the day I ignored the damp conditions and made a trip to Häller. We where a bit limited on what we could climb but we sought out the dry stuff, climbing a couple new things and running some laps on the classics.

Peter on a cool new problem

Granite sloper

John on another new problem

Erik on Cuerpo de Hombre

Call it a Day

2011-11-01T01:28:00.000-07:00

Kim shows off her first blown tip. I'm sure she is in store for many more.

Getting the Word Out on Solklinten

2011-10-27T23:00:00.000-07:00

Throughout the summer I've put lots of effort into developing a new area called Solklinten. I've spent many a precious climbing day running through the woods finding gems and countless hours making them climbable.

I think I have done enough exploring and development around the world to speak with some degree of authority about an area's quality and potential and I can say that Solklinten captured my attention for the better part of a year.

Solklinten may not be a world destination but it has some amazingly good problems of all levels and the potential is impressive. I have personally established roughly 100 problems but they are spread over a large area as I've been picking off the problems that appeal to me. There are certainly clusters with a dozen or more climbs next to each other but some of the best problems are fairly isolated. I'm still finding amazing things and if the area ever got fully developed it would easily have 500 quality problems and over 1000 if developed to the level of Kjugekull. I actually liken Solklinten to Kjugekull as it has the potential to be a similar area in turns of the amount of bouldering from a single parking area (I believe Solklinten actually has more but it covers a larger area). All it would take is some work.

At this point Solklinten will appeal to the explorers who are willing to hike around and find things, hopefully bringing brushes and adding something of there own. It would be easy for someone to visit the area with little guidance, find only a couple things and right the area off as limited. Essentially I need to produce some type of guide to help folks navigate around but do to the size and terrain it seems like quite an undertaking. I guess my stance on grades doesn't help the situation either as folks seem less likely to visit an area without a bag of numbers to chase.

I do hope to produce better information on what has been done and where the best potential lies but who knows when/if I'll get around to it. For anyone that would like to visit the area and get a tour/information feel free to contact me at kearneyjourney@gmail.com

Me on a slopey project that should go down the next day with good temps

Hostage Taker once again

Lina on her name's sake, Lina's Arete

Mongomatic

2011-10-21T08:09:00.000-07:00

Mongomatic is a striking line so it's a bit surprising that it took me so long to try it. It's tall and requires a few pads but the landing is perfect and the top-out is easy. It's a bit of a one-move-wonder but I would still recommend it to anyone.

Fredrik almost doing the crux

Geir oh-so-close. He would fire it next try

Back at Solklinten

2011-10-19T06:03:00.000-07:00

Last weekend I recruited the help of the young and strong Erik Grandelius to try the Miracle project at Solklinten. The crux eluded us and while we are certain that it goes, the fact that Erik didn't figure it out has me (being considerably weaker) concerned.

After getting shutdown on the project I showed Erik, Fredrik, and Martin one of my favorite problems in the area, Hostage Taker. Erik got the second ascent. Here are a couple picture of Hostage Taker from earlier this Summer.

Ivan on the opening move of Hostage Taker

Poa working toward the crux top-out.

Poa

Lightner Creek

2011-10-17T00:54:00.000-07:00

I've been getting out a little here in Sweden as the weather has been perfect. Hope the sun continues to shine as I've got lots of things to do this fall.

Here is one last retro-post from the States......

My favorite area in Durango was Lightner Creek. The area has a few restrictions and the boulders are spread out but the rock is high quality and makes for good lines. I only got to spend a half-day there but saw enough to know that when I return to Durango Lightner Creek will be my area of choice. One of the appeals for me is the obvious potential for those willing to hike as I'm certain that countless gems are waiting to be discovered in the hills. Here's a couple pictures.

Prairie get oh-so-close on Center Problem

Prairie on a beautiful crack problem

Eric fires a thuggy arete

Evan sending his project, Airbus

Sailing Hawks Classics: Last Tango in Durango

2011-10-13T13:33:00.000-07:00

I'm not actually sure on the exact name of this one but it has something to do with Tango and Durango. The bulbous pinches the lead up the face make for a cool line and fun climbing.

Prairie on Last Tango in Durango

Prairie on the crux

Sailing Hawks Classics: Legacy of the Kid

2011-10-11T12:29:00.000-07:00

Legacy of the Kid is one of Sailing Hawks most coveted problems. One of the the areas original "hard" lines, it climbs an overhanging face on edges and pockets. Beta varies depending on your strengths but regardless of how you unlock the sequence it is another must do for capable climbers visiting the area.

Using the cross beta to set up for the crux

Legacy of the Kid

Sailing Hawks Classics: Sunday Stroll

2011-10-08T09:04:00.000-07:00

The dakota sandstone at Sailing Hawks lends itself to steep climbing on pockets and edges. It is not the friendliest on the skin and doesn't make for the cleanest of lines but it certainly has some gems and is well worth a couple days for the travelling climbing. One of Sailing Hawks more popular lines and one of the classics climbs a steep face and is call Sunday Stroll. Here are a few pictures of Prairie sending.

Prairie on the beginning Sunday Stroll

The third and arguably most difficult move

Grabbing a good edge

Eyeballing the jug before the lip

Durango

2011-10-07T12:56:00.000-07:00

It's good to be back in Sweden as I'm amped to get back on some granite. I've returned to some finicky weather and I'm a bit out of whack do to the jet-lag so I reckon I'll use the next week or so to retro-post pictures from our month in the States while getting back into the swing of things here.

Here are a few pictures from the main boulder at Sailing Hawks in Durango.

Prairie on one of the many fun steep problems on the large boulder in the center of Sailing Hawks

Erik on Global Warming. Though sharp and a bit contrived, it makes for some good climbing

Nearly sticking the crux of Global Warming

Heading Home

2011-10-05T12:47:00.000-07:00

This trip to the States is officially over. Hammie and I are sitting in the Albuquerque airport preparing for the long flight home to Sweden. I has been a great trip and while I'm bummed it's over it'll be nice to get back, October is after all one of the best months for climbing in Sweden. I'll get around to posting some of the best pictures from the trip and hopefully editing some videos as well.

Here is a picture from one of the classic problems at Sailing Hawks in Durango, CO

Running a lap on Agent Orange

More From Kelly

2011-09-29T15:11:00.000-07:00

Lina and Kim have returned to Sweden leaving Hammie and I for a week of Dad-camp. We decided to spend our final days in the State climbing around Durango, CO and fortunately my sister Prairie joined us, ensuring hygiene will be a little better than Dad-camp last year. I'm looking forward to climbing myself into oblivion on the various sandstone blocks around Durango.

In the meantime, here are a few more pictures from Kelly Canyon.

Lina runs a lap on Poor White Trash

Lina looking for the next hold on a fun steep problem

Jim stretches out

Kim finding purchase on a sweet overhanging prow

Arkansas Wall

2011-09-27T08:36:00.000-07:00

The Arkansas Wall is another of Kelly's best. Tucked away in a corner it doesn't see that much traffic despite being home to one of the best problems, Touched by and Uncle.

Cory getting off the deck and one move before the crux stab to a pocket

Andrew bearing down

Timmy looking constipated on a problem to the right of Touched by an Uncle

Donkey Punch Wall

2011-09-25T16:20:00.000-07:00

The sandstone at Kelly Canyon runs the gambit from sandbox to solid. Almost all the rock is climbable and fun but a few wall are genuinely stellar. The Donkey Punch wall one of these topnotch outcroppings and is perhaps the best wall at Kelly. Great features on solid rock and several independent lines make this wall alone worth a trip to Kelly.

Antonio on the start of Donkey Punch

Ryan on Cleveland Steamer

Flagstaff Sandstone

2011-09-23T08:47:00.000-07:00

One of the great things about Flagstaff is the variety as one can climb on 4 different rock types without driving more than 15 minutes (limestone, dacite, basalt and sandstone). During our short time in Flag we never got around to any of the many Dacite areas and instead opted for multiple days on sandstone at the fun and friendly Kelly Canyon.

Here are a few pictures of a dyno problem at Kelly that Lina, Kim and Prairie threw themselves at.

Prairie setting up to dyno

Kim opting for the heel-hook beta

Lina sticks the dyno

The Gym Kid Dyno

Upside Down Climbing in Flagstaff

2011-09-21T20:47:00.000-07:00

No visit to Flagstaff would be complete with upside down climbing at Priest Draw. Here's a few pictures.

Praire gets turned around on Twister

Kim works on her kung-fu kick on Twister

Flexing biceps on The Egyptian

Getting horizontal

A Swede get a Taste of Freedom

2011-09-19T12:42:00.000-07:00

Kim has been our adopted Swede for this trip to the States. She had never been to the USA before and we decided it is our duty to teach her about freedom and show her how backwards socialism is. I'm sure after touring through the Southwest she'll roundly reject her 18 months of parental leave, 5 weeks vacation, socialized medicine and free education in an effort to truly understand freedom.

Here is a link to her new blog where she has posted pictured from this trip and reflects on the journey in Swedish.

http://kimlinq.blogspot.com/

Kim is one crazy Swede

Monster Project

2011-09-16T21:58:00.000-07:00

This year I made it back to what is perhaps the best remaining project at Monster Island. It isn't located at Monster Island proper but a smaller sector about 10 minutes away, which is just far enough that it is usually difficult to rally the pads required to make the landing safe. This year I convinced some folks to check it out and we spent a couple hours working it, piecing together almost all the moves. Ultimately there is one stopper move just below the lip that no one stuck but several of us got "close". The move requires a degree of commitment as sticking the pocket will result in a big swing that could send you flying down the hill. Even if I muster the strength and courage to stick the single move it would be a whole different ballgame after the 7 difficult moves leading up to it. Hopefully next Pie Fest I'll be in better shape and make it back for a glorious send. We'll see.

Antonio sticks one of the earlier moves

Still some climbing ahead

Lisa getting set up for the undone crux

More from Monster Island

2011-09-15T21:56:00.000-07:00

The Sawtooth Mountains

Highball slab warmup

Lina stabs the pocket on Frankenstein Left

Antonio on the obscure classic "The Name's Dalten"

Monster Island

2011-09-14T23:13:00.000-07:00

As an obsessive boulderer I usually shy away from taking trips that don't include a considerable amount of climbing and wonder what I would do if my parents lived somewhere like Florida or Denmark. It's safe to say I would not go home quite as often. But fortunately for me I don't have to choose between slighting relatives and going through climbing-withdraws as Pie Town has quality bouldering about 15 minutes away.

The rock around Pie Town is a volcanic tuff with quality varying from kitty-litter to super solid. Fortunately the solid rock tends to be concentrated together and saves folks the trouble of sifting through choss. The heavily featured rock makes for steep powerful climbing and the high altitude and beautiful setting provides a welcome respite from the scorching dessert only an hour away.

Here are a few pictures from Pie Town's most developed and easily accessible area, Monster Island.

The collection of boulders that is Monster Island. The bottom half of the large cliff in the background is choss but luckily the boulders came from the solid upper half

Kim on the classic Frankenstein Left

Lina gets oh so close on the Frankenstein dyno

Vampire Roof is quite popular as it offers several steep lines and a slew of variations

Kim on Piss-Ant

Pie Town

2011-09-13T22:24:00.000-07:00

Our first week in the States has been filled with food, friends and family. We spent a couple days in Albuquerque to recover from jetlag before heading to Pie Town for pie eating and bouldering. While we have done a bit of climbing I'd say most of our time has been spent hanging with loved ones and eating delicious food. The annual Pie Festival was awesome this year as tons of good folks showed up. Already excited about next year.

Here are a couple picture of what goes on in Pie Town the 2nd Saturday of every September. Plenty more pictures will follow highlighting the bouldering and some of the festivities.

Jack uses his hands to stuff his pie-hole

The youth pie eating contest

A couple gems in Västervik

2011-09-05T13:25:00.000-07:00

Björnblocket is an amazing piece of rock. The problems that climbs out the middle of the overhanging face is called The Hourglass is one of the best problems I've ever seen. Here Dain tries The Office on Björnblocket's right arete

David and Goliath is on the right-side of the impressive Fallataket and one of the problems I'm jonesing to go back to.

Västervik

2011-09-01T22:43:00.000-07:00

We are off to the USA for the month of September. Looking forward to hanging with friends and family and hoping to climb tons. I'll start updating the blog about our adventures in the USA but in the meantime there a few more pictures from Sweden I'd like to share.....

So I went to Västervik last weekend for a bouldering event/gathering. I've wanted to check the place out for awhile and was psyched by what I saw. During my two days there I collected enough projects to warrant several trips this fall and I haven't even seen half the areas. My buddy Stefan Rasmussen is the primary developer of the area and has single-handedly turned the region into a bouldering destination. I sure wish there where more folks like Stefan. Here are a couple pictures.

Sammy sampling some of Västervik's bouldering

Fredrik gets horizontal

Magnus on a cool roof climb

Mr Västervik himself, Stefan, circuiting a sweet problem

The Miracle Project

2011-08-29T09:20:00.000-07:00

My buddy Ivan was in Sweden for a couple weeks and brought his motivation. We went out a couple times and it was nice having someone keen to attack projects. It was the first time I've had someone to climb with on the Miracle Project and we narrowed down the beta as we threw ourselves at it. It is impressive and I can't wait to get back on it.

Ivan on the beginning of the Miracle Project

A Gem

2011-08-26T03:49:00.000-07:00

There is one line at the new local area that I desperately want to climb. It is the reason that I've done little else when visiting the place as I don't have much motivation to put my limited time into the other lines when this one is right there calling to me. I reckon it'll go down next time there are adequate pads.

Johan working the right beta

Niklas finding balance

Sweet features

Hardhat

2011-08-24T09:09:00.000-07:00

The one problem I've put up at the new area is a tall compression problem. With a few pads it can be made safe but DO NOT top-out straight up as a sizable block at the very top of the pillar is loose. It not a big deal if you go left after hitting the jug as that is the obvious/easiest top-out and avoids the need to wear a hardhat and body armor.

Johan looks down on the pad arrangement under Hardhat

Johan on Hardhat

New Local Area

2011-08-22T13:34:00.000-07:00

One of the great things about Gothenburg is that the rock seems to be limitless. I spend lots of time exploring and occasionally I hit a lull and start thinking I need to drive an hour or more to find new areas. Fortunately something always seems to pop up and remind me that there are still amazing boulders close to town that have yet to be found. The newest find is a case-in-point as it's located roughly 15 minutes from town, can practically be seen from a paved road, and holds several 3 star lines. Lets rally some brushes and add to Gothenburg's bouldering prestige.

Me trying what is sure to be one of Gothenburg's best

Big Block in Värnamo

2011-08-20T03:03:00.000-07:00

There is a giant solitary boulder in Värnamo that I was shown a year ago and last weekend I finally went back to climb on it. A striking arete had been my main motivation but after brushing it up I failed to find a sequence that didn't feel really hard. In the end, and with the help of Jimmy, I found what I believe will be beta but a send will have to wait until another day. Here are a couple pictures of the boulder.

Jimmy working the arete

A beautiful line waiting to be done

Jimmy on an established highball

Per on his way to a send

Solklinten on WikiBoulder

2011-08-16T09:00:00.000-07:00

A friend of mine created a website called WikiBoulder that seems one of the better sites for posting information on bouldering areas. My skills at creating topos is pretty limited but I've begun the process of adding Solklinten. Hopefully the information will take some of the mystery out of the area. On WikiBoulder I've tried to place the "area markers" as exact as possible and while the topos I've created are pretty rough they should give you a basic layout of most of the problems in that area. There is still lots to add and I haven't put on any grades (like normal) but the site lets anyone edit so feel free to improve on what I've done. Hope this helps and I'll try to add more in the coming week.

Here's another picture from Solklinten

Oskar on one great sloper problems on the Puddles Boulder

Radar

2011-08-11T00:58:00.000-07:00

Gia savagely crimps on one of Solklinten's most popular problems, Radar.

Better Beta for Solklinten

2011-08-09T14:43:00.000-07:00

Solklinten is a large area and that is probably why it gets so little traffic. It seems counter-intuitive that larger areas deter visitors but it seems most folks don't want to run around trying to find things. My hope was that people would visit the area, spend some time looking around and break out their brushes when they found something worth climbing. Unfortunately that didn't seem to happen as nearly all the 70 or so problems have been put up by only a few of us. So it goes.

Currently I'm hoping to provide more detailed info on how to find the larger sectors and some of the better single problems. This should entice folks that don't want the adventure aspect of just running around. If someone has a good program for making topos and wouldn't mind shooting it my way it would be greatly appreciated.

Here are a couple more pictures from Solklinten

Johan on a sloper project

The sloper project might have to wait until it cools down a bit

Another undone problem that has been brushed up

Wild Bill Jones

2011-08-07T05:15:00.000-07:00

One of the steeper problems in Solklinten is Wild Bill Jones. The good edges make for dangling feet and lots of fun.

Johan sticks the first move of Wild Bill Jones

Solklinten Goodies: Left and Right-hand Paths

2011-08-01T06:58:00.000-07:00

A couple weeks ago Johan and I brushed up a solitary roof I found a year ago but never got around to brushing. The roof yielded two problems and we assigned slightly confusing names.

Johan does the opening move of The Right-hand Path, which goes straight up the cleft feature via a bad pinch and a long reach.

Johan on the first move of The Left-hand Path, which traverses right and tops out via jugs right of The Right-hand Path

Chuck Norris Doesn't Fall

2011-07-28T00:14:00.000-07:00

Last week I finally made it to a high beautiful arete I've been thinking about for awhile. I'd found the line a couple months ago but have had a hard time finding someone willing to go out there with me. So last week when Pontus called and said he was up for an afternoon session I new exactly where I wanted to go.

The arete is tall and striking. I was initially worried that the crack running to the right of the arete would "interfere" with the arete line and make it "too easy" but the climbing is such that the crack and arete are two separate lines that share the same start. The crack line went down quickly but was definitively not easy and at the end of the day, and to my surprise, I found myself topping out the arete after nearly falling off the last move.

I call the crack exit Lonewolf McQuade and the arete Chuck Norris Doesn't Fall. Both climbs are excellent and not to be missed by high-ball lovers visiting the area.

Thinking about how much I don't want to fall from the top

At this point on the climb one can go right to the easier Lonewolf McQuade or follow the airy arete and hope to be like Chuck Norris and not fall

A Near Wobbler in Font

2011-07-25T10:08:00.000-07:00

When I was in Font during March I kind of forced Chris to get back on L'Hélicoptère because I thought it would be fun to film. I figured I'd do something with that footage and here is what I ended up with. Thanks to Chris for being a good sport. Next time Chris, next time.

Solklinten Goodies: I Must Break You and Y-Crack

2011-07-23T06:22:00.000-07:00

Y-Crack isn't so hard but will test your mental fortitude as it's a bit high

I Must Break You has an early crux that requires a heel-hook and a subtle mantel.

It's a good idea to properly brush and tick the top. It's a reoccurring lesson I learned the hard way once again.

Solklinten Goodies: Stallone Area

2011-07-20T23:36:00.000-07:00

When entire areas are going up I find it difficult to apply names to all the problems and keep track of what I've done. I have certainly been slacking as I have only named about a tenth of the 70ish problems we've put up in Solklinten. Since retro-naming generally doesn't happen Johan and I decided to pick a theme for a small sector we started to brush up and actually name the new problems the same day we put them up. What better theme than Sylvester Stallone. Here are a few of the problems that went up.

Johan on the sectors best, Over the Top.

Sticking the first move and gearing up for the slopy top-out

Party at Kitty and Stud's (the original name of Stallone's first movie) uses thuggery to climb out a short overhang.

Italian Stallion (the re-release name of Stallone's first movie) follow's the arete and shares a top-out with the previous problems. Both problems will appeal to folks that like steeper climbing

Solklinten Goodies: Hostage Taker

2011-07-17T09:11:00.000-07:00

Hostage Taker took longer to put together than I anticipated. The solitary line of holds out the steep bulge had the look of something I'd put together in a few burns and I initially wondered if it was worth the time to brush up. Ultimately the line was too enticing and to my surprise I found myself defeated after the first session. The top-out that I thought would be a gimme ended up being anything but and it would take another session and a little help from my friend Said to finally piece out the problem.

Hostage Taker is big moves on good holds to a slightly strenuous sloppy top-out. The movement is sustained and knowing the sequence for the top-out will certainly help. My friend Pontus was there on the first day and posted a couple more picture on his blog.

The first move of Hostage Taker uses a heel-toe and bad underclings to reach a jug.

Solklinten Goodies: Go Figure

2011-07-14T13:44:00.000-07:00

I've been pretty bad about reporting all the new problems that have been going up at Solklinten. I been busy finding and brushing countless projects and I quickly forget the things from the day before and never get around to adding them to our local bouldering site. As of now there are upwards of 60 problems that run the gambit of difficulties and styles and in hopes of enticing more folks to come to the area I'll start reporting some of the gems. These problems are top class and should draw people out, just hope they bring brushes as there is still lots to do.

So here's a couple pictures of one of the harder problems I've put up at Solklinten. I call it Go Figure do to the fact that a figure-4 is mandatory beta (seriously, if anyone can do it without a figure-4 I'm impressed). This steep problem shares a top-out with the Miracle Project and clocks in at around 13 moves. It took me 3 days to complete awaits a second ascent.

Said at the base of Go Figure. With a couple pads the landing is pretty casual as the raised ground behind you doesn't interfere with the climbing and makes falling from the top a non-issue.

The top of the problem. The figure-4 crux is reaching a crimp from a monster jug at the end of the roof section. This jug is also were the Miracle Project will join Go Figure.

Said adjusts his feet after doing the first move

The second move, and still a long way from the top

New Problem at Kullavik: Chicken Game

2011-07-09T23:14:00.000-07:00

Nearly every time I've gone to Kullavik over the last few years I've check out a beautiful arete and thought "I need to try this thing". Unfortunately it wasn't so simple as a jagged landing required several pads and I couldn't find anyone keen on tackling this highball with me. Well last week that all changed as Tumle, Isak, Johan and myself assembled some pads and went to work. It took figuring out beta and mustering some courage but in the end Johan and I sent in successive burns and Chicken Game was born. This problem is well worth rallying the necessary pads and one of Kullavik's best. It also remains shaded all day and provides a respite on warm summer days.

Johan scopes the top-out while Tumle and Isak arrange pads

Johan focuses on the task at hand

Gearing up for the crux and hoping Tumle knows how to spot. Tumle is straddling a large hole which isn't actually as dangerous as it looks but wears heavy on the mind when dead-pointing to a small crimp.

Johan post crux and hoping for and easy topout on the FA

After Skeleton

2011-07-08T06:41:00.000-07:00

The other day I climbed an obscure boulder problem in the middle of Gothenburg's most accessible area. After Skeleton is a bit unassuming but it has perfect stone and good movement. I fully recommend it to folks heading to Utby that are looking for a quality boulder problem they haven't already done/tried.

Johan reaches the bag intermediate sloper

Almost sticking the crux move

More on Trainspotting

2011-07-06T13:42:00.000-07:00

The horizontal cracks on Trainspotting actually provide good holds. The trick is working your fingers in at the right spot. I reckon that several of the moves are low percentage and a send would require a bit of finesse. it's one of those problems that takes a few sessions to pick up the subtleties.

Johan finding the sweet spot

Trainspotting

2011-07-05T13:06:00.000-07:00

Trainspotting is perhaps the most storied project in Gothenburg. A beautiful line that is absolutely possible, it still amazes me that it hasn't been done. I give it less than a year before it finally goes down.

Johan on the opening moves of Trainspotting

How much longer will it be a project?

Åland Video

2011-06-30T10:32:00.000-07:00

Here is a video from the trip we took to Åland in May. I did a pretty crappy job of getting footage so the video has quite a bit of boring climbing where I just set the camera on a tripod. So it goes. At least folks can see a few of the classics and use the video to scam beta. Not my best video but I hope you enjoy anyway.

Gusher and Radar

2011-06-28T10:31:00.000-07:00

Said on the opening move of Gusher

Said sending Radar

Puddles

2011-06-23T01:35:00.000-07:00

Puddles is proving to be one of Solklinten's more difficult problems as it continues to alludes a second ascent despite efforts by some pretty talented climbers.

Per-Ola reaching for the small intermediate before the crux move

A view of Puddles from above

More Solklinten

2011-06-20T14:02:00.000-07:00

Here are a few more pictures from Solklinten

Lina on an awesome warm-up boulder.

Johan bearing down

Lina prepares for the big move to the lip on Lina's Arete

Slab mantel

Johan sends a super arete problem

Lots more at Solklinten

2011-06-17T05:00:00.000-07:00

I've spent the last 3 weekends exclusively at the new area on Tjörn. Solklinten continues to grow as every day a few more problems get added and a few more projects are brushed. The number of completed problems is now somewhere around 40 and some of the best lines are still waiting for willing climbers yielding brushes. So far we haven't bothered naming most of the problems but one of these evening I'll sit down with The Big Lebowski and attach names to the best problems. Here are a few pictures.

Lina gets her brushing on

Kim on one of Solklinten's many new problems

Lina stretches out

This is the last remaining project on the Puddles boulder. So far the boulder has 8 quality problems and this one will be a nice addition

Peter on a slab project.

Two Weeks in Font: The Movie

2011-06-13T02:59:00.000-07:00

Here is the finished Fontainebleau video. As with most of the longer videos I learned a lot while making it. Hopefully future projects will benefit from what I've learned and my videos will continue to improve.

I may throw together another short video of extra footage from the trip but we'll see if that ever happens. There is always the Teaser if you want to see a little more and happened to miss it.

Enjoy.

Try Face

2011-06-09T00:00:00.000-07:00

When some people climb the effort they exert is obvious as they put on there "try face". A good try face makes spectating and photographing somehow more enjoyable. I guess that's why I like climbing with Tompa.

Tompa trying hard on the slab project

Urban Bouldering

2011-06-07T14:22:00.000-07:00

Gothenburg has plenty of bouldering and some of it happens to be right in the middle of town. One of the more striking pieces of urban bouldering is a tall slab project that brings new meaning to the term accessible. The line itself is pretty incredible as a few thin holds mark an improbable path up the middle of the wall. This problem is not for the faint of heart as the holds spread-out and get progressively worse as you approach the still undone crux just below the lip.

The setting is actually kind of enduring for reasons other than the non-approach as urban rock possesses it's own special kind of beauty.

Tompa trying not to think about the impending fall that awaits. Good thing we've got a grip of pads

Åland Photo Dump

2011-05-30T09:41:00.000-07:00

Here are a few more pictures from Åland.

Kalle on Moon Arete in Fågelberget, which was my favorite area. The approach was quite long but you are rewarded with some great problems in a beautiful setting.

Kalle pawing a glassy sloper in Fågelberget.

Kalle on one of Åland's best, Pictor in Fågelberget

Frida oh-so-close on a sweet problem in Grottan area

Gu fires the popular and fun Supermartikainen in Grottan.

Lina send Martikainen

Dodo

2011-05-29T10:55:00.000-07:00

If there was one problem I want to go back to Åland to do it would be Dodo. The stand start went down in a few tries but felt incomplete as the problem begs to be climbed from a sit. While I managed to figure out all the moves a send eluded me and gives me something to go back to.

Daniel running a lap on the standing start to Dodo

Martin hoping the key heel-toe doesn't slip when he goes for the sloper

Åland

2011-05-25T13:35:00.000-07:00

I had heard spray about Åland long before we took our recent trip. It was one of those areas with a bit of hype that I new I'd make it to eventually but hadn't seen or heard much that made me want to make it a top priority. I went into this trip without super high expectations but when the week was over I was still excited and I'm already thinking about a return trip.

The climbing on Åland is comprised of several small areas fairly far apart with settings that vary from sea side boulders to cliff-bands in the forest. The skin friendly red granite lends itself to steep climbing and most of the popular problems seemed to be roofs. Åland actually had less developed climbing than I anticipated but what is there tends to be good quality. I didn't get to see all the areas but I checked out the major ones and left a few things that are worthy of a return. All in all I'd say it is well worth a trip.

Here are a few pictures.

Hammie leaving some chalk marks

One of the beautiful boulder to be found.

Gu samples one of Åland's many roofs

The Miracle Project

2011-05-22T12:39:00.000-07:00

It would take a miracle to find a giant granite roof with a single climbable line. Good thing miracles happen. Now all that's left to do is rally some folks and get to work.

The Miracle Project

The Font Trip: A Teaser

2011-05-18T23:16:00.000-07:00

I'm an currently on Åland, the Finnish islands off Sweden's east coast, taking a holiday with the family and checking out the bouldering. There will certainly be some posts about Åland in the near future but for now here is a teaser from the Font trip we took in March. The full video should be done in a week or two.

A Weak Imitation

2011-05-15T00:01:00.000-07:00

My good friend Fredik Jutfelt took a picture of Den Gamle och Havet that ended up on the cover of a magazine. I decided to try to take a similar shot the last time I was there and I think it's safe to say I should take some lessons from Fredrik.

Chris on the Gothenburg classic Den Gamle och Havet

New Stuff Around Town

2011-05-09T07:51:00.000-07:00

Lately I've been spending a lot of time on Tjörn as nearly every time I head up there I find something new that requires my attention.

Last year I started developing a local Gothenburg area called Årekärr. Most of the initial development was in one small area that seemed the most logical place to start, leaving the outlying areas to wait until I had time. Well, over the last month or so I've managed to get in a couple half-days and do the initial work on a couple new sectors.

Here are a few pictures of just some of the new things we've put up. The first 4 pictures are in one sector, the cool shelf boulder is at another and Me so Thorny is totally by itself.

Kim on cool warmup. Good rock and awesome holds.

This one required Kim to get creative with her beta. In the end she summoned her Inner Frenchie to get to the top

I didn't manage to send this bulge as I think a colder day might be needed

I wish this little roof had a few more moves before hitting the jugs. It was still pretty cool.

Chris on the top moves of Shelf-life

The tricky opening moves of Shelf-life

The tenuous reach for a jug on Shelved

A bad picture of a good problem. What you can't really see is the single crack you follow up the center of the boulder. Technical and powerful with a big committing move of the lip. I'm calling it "Me so Thorny" do to the unforgiving bushes that almost ruin the landing

Video Quickie: Jorden Runt I En Kundvagn

2011-05-07T00:18:00.000-07:00

As of recent I've been trying to make more quality videos. This mean taking more time to set up and shoot the multiple angles and more time editing the material before I'm happy with it (or mostly happy). Generally it means less climbing for me, which is compounded by the fact that I also have a little girl to take care of that puts additional limits on how much I get out to climb and of course the ability to shoot good angles and sit down for enough time to do some quality editing. It is with this in mind that I've decided to supplement my video production with some "set up a tripod" videos that I can make with little effort. Here is one of those "quickies" on the classic Jorden Runt I En Kundvagn at Lyse Kyrka in Bohuslan. Hope you enjoy.

Falsifierbarhet

2011-05-04T23:12:00.000-07:00

A couple weeks ago Lina ticked off one of the west coasts finest, Falsifierbarhet in Hogen.

Lina on her way to the send

Kim looking determined

More from Hamburgö

2011-05-02T11:08:00.000-07:00

As I said before, Stenkyrka is a pretty sweet area. Unfortunately there are some access issues as the folks that have their summer house next to the boulders apparently don't take too kindly to climbers. This generally mean one of several things....

1) Choose an approach to the boulders that does not go through the middle of their property and don't climb on the boulders next to the houses.

2) Don't visit the area in the summer when the residents are there. I'm told they are there most weekend during the summer and you can generally tell if someone is home by the presence of a boat docked out front.

3) State you have the right to be there and do whatever the hell you want, further aggravating the situation.

If people do get a chance to visit this area I hope there are no incidents. Here are a few more pictures.

Chris getting style points

This awesome arete lies a stones throw from a summer house. Enticing though it may be I recommended self-control when testy residence are around

Chris finding balance on a deceptively difficult arete. You can see one of the summer houses in the background

Lina on the right arete of a picturesque boulder

Fredrik using the preferred dyno beta on Piraten

Lina fires for the lip

Stenkyrka FAs

2011-05-01T00:21:00.000-07:00

A few weeks ago spent a day at Stenkyrka on Hamburgö. This area is small but packs quite a punch as the number of quality of problems is impressive. During our day we climbed the classics and added a few or our own. Here are some pictures of the FAs that went up that day.

Fredrik trying to find friction on the sunbaked slopers of Man-Diesel.

Hoping the topout is easy on Kyrkporten höger

I haven't dubbed this one yet as I feel it deserves a good name. I'm sure something will come to me.

Full Moon

2011-04-28T12:29:00.000-07:00

Thought I'd share this shot though I'm not sure how much it'll be appreciated.

Lina has an little surprise awaiting her at the top. Who is that guy anyways?

Bishop Bouldering: Drifter Classics

2011-04-25T23:18:00.000-07:00

Another video from this winter. This one captures the three standard classics on perhaps the most popular/famous rock in Bishop, the Drifter Boulder. Hope you enjoy.

Puddles

2011-04-22T13:00:00.000-07:00

One of the new problems on Tjörn I dubbed Puddles. The name came about after blood pooled up in one of the first holds. The flapper gushing blood was actually from a different problem but it just wouldn't stop bleeding. Anyways, I had tried this problem for a couple days and the carnage made the FA that much sweeter.

Blood drops on the pad

Puddles of blood

The culprit

Peter on earlier attempts

Per-Ola grabs the small intermediate crimp

Solklinten

2011-04-20T06:12:00.000-07:00

Awhile back Pontus took Hammie and I for a tour of an undeveloped area called Solklinten on the island of Tjörn. The quantity of rock was impressive but it was the striking lines that made me load up my wire-brushes and go to work the following weekend. The few days of development that followed yielded a handful of problems with Radar getting most of the attention and several repeats.

Since those initial days the area hasn't seemed to attract anyone as a 15 minute approach and the work required to actually develop the place seem to deter most people. Fortunately I've been able to take a few folks out recently that seemed pretty psyched on the area (check out Bummel's blog) and every time I go out a couple more problems get sent and/or brushed. Pretty soon I'm hoping to compile enough good problems to attract the masses, I just hope they bring there walking shoes and wire-brushes.

Here are some pictures of the area, some from the first outings in Sept and Oct and others from more recent.

Kim an area gem called The Ringer

The view this fall

The initial session on Radar last Sept

Chris on the start of Gusher

Chris on a slopey top out

Moby Dick

2011-04-16T22:45:00.000-07:00

We will be heading back to Kjugekull over Easter weekend. It should be crowded but that means lots of pads to rally to some highball and many of the classics should be padded all day. Here's a couple pictures of one of Kjuge's best, Moby Dick.

Chris reaching the little crimp before the crux

A slopey top-out awaits

Persons Dyno

2011-04-13T22:25:00.000-07:00

Persons Dyno in Kjugekull is one of those problems short people hate. If you are tall you can just stand up to the lip while those of smaller stature must learn to fly.

Lina winds up for the dyno while others spectate

Josefin strikes a pose mid dyno

Lina takes flight

Josefin puts on her war face and gets oh so close

All That Goes Up Must Come Down

2011-04-11T08:02:00.000-07:00

You know the month or so of listlessness that follows the finishing of a really good book? Well, Fontainebleau was that book. I didn't want it to end but when it finally did I knew that whatever unfortunate books I picked up next would be disappointing. That meant the land of granite that I love and call home would seem a little bleak for a short while.

So now that I've been back in Sweden for over three weeks I'm starting to feel the "Font Coma" begin to wear off. The first two weekends back did nothing for my psych as Sweden's largest bouldering area seemed like a giant choss-dump and my local projects just weren't as good as I remembered. Fortunately we live roughly an hour away from Bohuslan and this weekend we cruised up and I was reminded that Sweden is amazing. There is nothing like new areas with great lines and a beautiful setting to remind you that you live in a bouldering paradise (but it's still not Font).

Here are a few pictures from one of our first weekends back in Sweden at Kjugekull, Sweden's largest developed bouldering area.

Our psych wasn't helped by the fact that the weather sucked. Here is Chris using the "Swedish technique" to dry some holds.

Chris on Flaming Star

Lina cruising one of Kjuge's best, Mödomsrovet

The problem that will bring me back to Kjugekull, Alla Vill Till Himmelen

Bishop Bouldering Video: Happy Boulders

2011-04-08T09:19:00.000-07:00

Another video from the winter. Hopefully a Font video will emerge in a more timely manner.
Enjoy

A Few more from Font

2011-04-05T09:06:00.000-07:00

Here are a few more pictures from Fontainebleau.

Luke on the beautiful L'Étrave in J. A. Martin

Le Yaniro in 95.2 was one of the coolest problems I did. The only time I've used a figure-4 for more than a party trick, and I removed my left shoe (like Luke in the picture) to help un-pretzel myself.

Lars on Rocher Canon's best problem (in my opinion), La Théorie du Chaos.

Due to exploding elbows and some decree of restraint Luke and Chris actually rested but still found themselves out at the boulders supporting their obsessive friend (that would be me). They humored me by going back to things after we had packed and got a taste of what Lina has to live with. Thanks heaps.

Dosage in Buthiers was one that it paid off to drag my friends back too. Last minute sends are always sweet.

Triplets on the Drifter Boulder

2011-04-01T00:55:00.000-07:00

I ran into some a couple super cool guys while I was in Bishop this winter and we decided to all climb on the Drifter Boulder at the same time.