Wednesday, September 18, 2013

The Mega-block

Some years ago Spång took me to a massive boulder in Bohuslan and I giddily circled the boulder, spying several great problems and a couple super lines.  That day we brushed and failed on a striking arete and I told myself I'd be back.  For some reason it took me several years to return and while we didn't try that arete (it was wet) or the other amazing highballs we put up a few worthy problems.  I'll be back as soon as I can rally some folks.  Anyone keen?

The mega-block.  We brushed the arete on the right several years ago and I'm excited about trying it.  A little more than half the boulder is more suited to sport climbing, the rest offers top notch bouldering.

The backside of the boulder.

Tumle on a fun roof we did (You can see the roof on the left side of the previous picture).  Cryptic climbing and great moves

Tumle attempting a striking dihedral I dubbed "Upper Half".  This one tops-out on the massive boulder thanks to an adjacent boulder making it a reasonable height.  

Tumle reaching the slopey crimps on Upper Half

This is another nearby boulder with a couple good looking lines

Friday, September 13, 2013

The best of Beaver Land: Forgiveness Wall

Perhaps the best wall in Beaver Land is the one that required the most work to clean the top.  The wall has some of the best rock in the area but a daunting amount of vegetation was on the top-out. Jonathan put the time in to clean part of the top but never got to try the problem he made possible.  I went back later for the fa of what is perhaps Beaver Land's best problem but credit should be given to Jonathan so he got the honor of naming it.  "Beg for Forgiveness" is a reference to to what I should do for stealing the first ascent.  I also cleaned up the rest of the wall and managed to send another great problem.  There are still a couple projects.

Beg for Forgiveness climbs a steep rail before a final dyno to the top.  Here Kalle fires for the top.

I used the intermediate on the FA but Kalle and others have opted to go all the way to the jug.  A great problem

Johan tries the other problem on the wall.  I called this one "the Badger".

Wednesday, September 11, 2013

Beaver Land

As per usual most of my time out climbing has been developing new stuff.  Earlier this summer before work started taking up all my time I had a streak of very productive weeks where nearly every time I went out I found something worthy.  While the discoveries tend to be small areas with a handful of problems (or a solitary gem) one of the places I stumbled upon holds more potential than most and I've spent a bit of time there brushing new problems.  I'm calling the place "beaver land" as a nearby community of beavers have left their mark on quite a few trees,  Fortunately most of the climbing isn't near the water so I don't have to worry about disturbing the beavers.

Beaver land consists mostly of walls and they are generally on the steep side so there is lots of potential for hard stuff.  The rock varies in quality but is generally decent and cleans up pretty well.  In general a lot of cleaning is required for the top-outs as dirt, moss, and roots are draping over the walls.  Development is slow and thus far there are only about a dozen established problems and a couple cleaned projects but there is plenty more to be cleaned.  Here are a few pictures.

The beavers have been here

One of the many steep walls

Jonathan and Emil underneath another wall.  This one is now cleaned with considerable help from Jonathan.  

More steep climbing.

This wall is only slightly overhanging. 

Jonathan on the first problem we did in Beaver Land

A newly brushed crimp project

A closeup of the crimpy project

Lina feeling out a cool problem she brushed up.  This particular wall took roughly 3 hours with a shovel to clear the top and now has 5 problems on it.

Alex on a steep rail problem I dubbed "Joe Cocker".  This one took me a couple sessions and some beta help from some friends. 

Alex on a fun dyno the uses some awesome holds

Johan bears down on a project