Friday, July 12, 2013

Ungdomar I Kalsonger: Video

A couple weeks ago I posted about a new roof in Bohuslan.  Well I took some footage from that day and made a little film of a mostly naked Jonathan throwing himself at the problems.  Hope you enjoy.



Bohuslan Bouldering: Ungdomar i Kalsongar from Walker Kearney on Vimeo.

Tuesday, July 9, 2013

Strafen

Strafen is a classic roof at Harbak that uses some intricate beta to climb out a roof before a slopey top-out.  This one took me a bit to figure out and I pitched off the top a few times before the send.  Quality problem.

Andreas working Stafen

The lower crux can be solved with a variety of different betas.  Andreas opted for my beta using a heel-toe and a bad undercling to gain a jug.

After pulling the lip you'll have to stare down some slopers.  The top was definitely the red-point crux for me

Andreas reaches the "jug"

Still not over

Friday, July 5, 2013

Harbak Bouldering

I've returned to Sweden after my short trip to Norway.  It was a bit of a whirlwind as last minute trips tend to be, but I got to hang with friend, climb a bit and scout some areas so I'm content.

Last time I posted a mediocre review of Vingsand before heading to Harbak.  First let me say that Vingsand is not a bad area.  The amount of rock there is impressive and if it continues getting developed it could be mega in a few more years.  And now Harbak

Harbak is a small area roughly 1.5 hours from Vingsand.  It was smaller than I anticipated but what it lacks in size it makes up for in quality.  It was nice camping at the boulders as I could wake up early and take advantage of the quiet/crisp mornings.  I just wish the area was bigger.

The big roof overlooking Harbak is littered with drop-off roof problems.  While I wasn't psyched on the climbing it was a great place to camp.  And if it rains there is still plenty of climbing as the roof stays dry.

Contrary to Vingsand, Harbak had plenty of good warm-ups and moderates.

On the far left of the big cave was a cool problem that topped out on a shelf.  

One of the area classics is a hard problem called Focus.  It was too rich for my blood but if I ever go back in better shape I'd love to climb on this one

Andy getting his try on

Hooligan sits off away from the rest of the climbing but is well worth the short walk.  An awesome problem.


Thomasina on a sweet roof called Ice Age

There are several good looking hard problems in Harbak, and everyone of the them shut me down.  Thomasina testing one