Lately I've managed to tick off a couple projects at Solklinten. It's nice to finish off stuff as I've got too many projects in general. Here are some pictures of one of the latest problems that I called Trident
Erik contemplating the top-out of Trident
Bummel gearing up for the first of three left hand bumps
Several years ago I tried an amazing Rail Project on Orust. Back then I decided it was a bit too hard but recently I decided to have another crack at it (I'd like to think I'm a better/stronger climber now). Daniel and I went there early one morning and it was just as stunning as I remember it. Unfortunately it is still very hard (or I'm just weak) and got a bit harder when the one suspect hold (and only real jug on the problem) came off. It definitely still goes but it'll have to wait until I'm stronger or some mutant comes down for a try.
Daniel contemplates the Rail Project
Almost doing the move to the jug. Moments later I was boosted to the jug and an audible cracking sound warned me of impending doom. A couple light tugs from the safety of the ladder would relieve the route of it's only jug.
The bottom of the scare is now a "decent" sloper and the right side is a good sidepull/undercling. I thing that getting into this undercling will be harder but then make the next move easier than before (got to look on the bright side).
The jug that was nice enough to not crack my skull open.
So I've once again begun sorting through old footage in hopes of putting out more videos. Here is the first one to actual be finnished. It's a few problems from a few days in Durango last September. Hope you enjoy.
Last week Aleksej and I went to try some lines I had found during previous explorations. It ended up being quite a productive day as 3 sweet problems were established and a couple more projects got bushed up.
I'm continuing my barrage of new boulder problems with a few from Solklinten.
Sticking the first move of a new steep climb
After the opening dyno the problem follows good holds to the left before rolling over the lip. The straight-up is tall and looks pretty difficult.
Working the opening moves of another problem on a second wall only 100 meters from the last one. This problem shares the same highball top-out with a problem further right and both are undone as the top was wet the day I was there. Psyched to go back.
Doing the long move on the right problem.
A rather impressive sloper problem on a solitary boulder has several thuggy moves from a sit-start to a hard sloper top-out. All the move except the top-out has been done
A couple months ago I was shown a low-resolution picture of an overhanging wall situated in an open beech forest with a perfect landing. The picture was very enticing and I eventually found a couple friends willing to check it out one afternoon. I was not disappointed by what I found.
The wall is actually situated on a golf course and while there is no danger of being hit by a stray ball there is a constant barrage of questions from golfers strolling by. I reckon questions will become less frequent as the regular golfers become accustomed to seeing climbers as the "Golf Wall" holds a couple gems that are sure to attract climbers. I've now spent two afternoons at the wall and while I've done the two lines that where most enticing to me there are a couple more I'm keen to brush up. The wall currently has 7 established climbs and the surrounding area offers plenty more.
One of the steeper problems on the left side of the wall took the entire 3 hours of daylight my first afternoon. In the end I was able to unlock the beta and stick the crux dyno in fading light. I dubbed the problem Par for the Course.
Sticking the sloper before the dyno on Par for the Course.
Aleksej on the fa of a nice arete on the Golf Wall
One of the main line on the Golf Wall is a highball that follows a thin crack. From the ground it looks pretty easy but when you start climbing you realize the holds are worse than they look and moves get progressively harder. At the end of my second afternoon I was able muster some courage and scrape over the the top of Tuttifrutti.